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Discussion Starter #1
OK I know this subject has been beat to DEATH but some questions that I haven't found direct answers for or have & don't remember what I found.
1. If your running Johny Joints or Rubicon joints or poly bushings how do you make your links adjustable as far as they're length or do you just make sure you get it right the first time?
2. If you run your rig on the road ocationally is it ESSENTIAL to incorporate poly or rubber bushings into on end of all the links?
3. Is it impossible to run a four link suspension (instead of 3 link) if your running an off-set rear axle & t-case or just more difficault to engineer to clear the driveshaft etc.?
4. For an on/off road rig should the coil springs be mounted on the OUTSIDE of the frame rails or is directly under the rails OK if adjustable shocks are being used?
5. Where is a good place to get custom length limit straps?
6. Can a coil spring be shortened by just cutting some of the coil off one end then heating and bending JUST the end so it is flat again? (on the mounting surface)
7. What is a good way to make a home made link mount for the top of the rear axle in a 3 link configuration? (Seems like a LOT of rotational movement would be needed)
8. What application of spring bushing sets are guys using to make links with bushing ends? (Thinking YJs aren't they a common O.D. that fits inside of a IPS that's common)
9. If running J.Js. or RE ends do you weld the link RIGHT ON TO the joint outer race or weld the link to a pipe size that the JJ can be pressed into.
10. Uuhhhhh I'll think of more & revisit later.

Thanks guys!

PS YES I did post this in other sections too!:flipoff2:
 

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Wyld Bill said:

1. If your running Johny Joints or Rubicon joints or poly bushings how do you make your links adjustable as far as they're length or do you just make sure you get it right the first time?
Adjustments are for pussys, people who can't measure, fickle people or people who designed in multiple mounting points. I personally say screw em on the rear, they are just another thing to break.

Wyld Bill said:

2. If you run your rig on the road ocationally is it ESSENTIAL to incorporate poly or rubber bushings into on end of all the links?
No, but I would. Rubber bushings deflect and absorb energy that otherwise would be transfered to the mounts and links. It isn't just about ride quality.

Wyld Bill said:

3. Is it impossible to run a four link suspension (instead of 3 link) if your running an off-set rear axle & t-case or just more difficault to engineer to clear the driveshaft etc.?
Sure just the clearance issues, which BTW are the same issues a 3 link has to deal with. The difference in design between the two is not very much.

Wyld Bill said:

4. For an on/off road rig should the coil springs be mounted on the OUTSIDE of the frame rails or is directly under the rails OK if adjustable shocks are being used?
I'll pass that to the next guy, it makes a difference but I don't have the knowledge to help ya out there.

Wyld Bill said:

5. Where is a good place to get custom length limit straps?
PolyPerformance.com!
(Also get your rubicon joints and tool there.)

Wyld Bill said:

6. Can a coil spring be shortened by just cutting some of the coil off one end then heating and bending JUST the end so it is flat again? (on the mounting surface)
As long as either it isn't progressive rate using the outside diameter of the tines or you are cutting that whole section off. Otherwise yes if it is a plain straight coil you can trim it, I wouldn't heat and bend it though.

Wyld Bill said:

7. What is a good way to make a home made link mount for the top of the rear axle in a 3 link configuration? (Seems like a LOT of rotational movement would be needed)
axle truss

H8 resently showed some pics of his setup where the upper mount used a large tierod end, so the top of the truss was plated drilled and tapered for it and the underside clearanced for the nut and pin. I though that was pretty cool myself.

Heres mine with slightly offset axle and centered transfercase.

Mine is a questionable setup if you run parallel lowers as it does put alot of sideload on that rubicon joint, with triangulated lowers like mine alot of that stress is changed to push/pull. If running parallel lowers have that joint rotated 90* and retain double shear.

Wyld Bill said:

8. What application of spring bushing sets are guys using to make links with bushing ends? (Thinking YJs aren't they a common O.D. that fits inside of a IPS that's common)
I used 1998 Jeep Wrangler lower control arm bushings but it was just easy as I already had a set of aftermarket control arms to chop up. I would really consider them again though as the make a pretty good control arm bushing.

Wyld Bill said:

9. If running J.Js. or RE ends do you weld the link RIGHT ON TO the joint outer race or weld the link to a pipe size that the JJ can be pressed into.
I just welded the tube right to the outer race, be careful not to burn too hot or you can damage the threads/grooves in them.

Wyld Bill said:
PS YES I did post this in other sections too!:flipoff2:
That is uncool, but at least this didn't seem to be total newbie babble, on a beat to death topic.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the great reply you answered a lot of my questions very well. I have more question but I think I need to reread your reply again first.;)
 

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Wyld Bill said:

4. For an on/off road rig should the coil springs be mounted on the OUTSIDE of the frame rails or is directly under the rails OK if adjustable shocks are being used?
For mounting the springs as far to the outside as possible will give you better stability, and more control. The further you mount the Coils to the inside the more flex you will acheive with a given length coil. I say mount em as far to the outside as you can without having anything hit them during flex.

Wyld Bill said:

6. Can a coil spring be shortened by just cutting some of the coil off one end then heating and bending JUST the end so it is flat again? (on the mounting surface)
DO NOT! heat the coil anywhere, It will cause it to loose its springiness very quickly. I would also advise agianst cutting it. Custom coils are available (all though not as widely available as leaf springs) so you should be able to get a coil in the right spring rate and length as you need.
 

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Re: Re: Link supension & coils,..some MORE Q's

DEnd said:


For mounting the springs as far to the outside as possible will give you better stability, and more control. The further you mount the Coils to the inside the more flex you will acheive with a given length coil. I say mount em as far to the outside as you can without having anything hit them during flex.



DO NOT! heat the coil anywhere, It will cause it to loose its springiness very quickly. I would also advise agianst cutting it. Custom coils are available (all though not as widely available as leaf springs) so you should be able to get a coil in the right spring rate and length as you need.
Dead nuts on the mounting them out as far as possible IMHO and as for cutting springs you should be able to cut them if needed but I think that an adjustable coil mount is better to fine tune and you should be able to come up with something you don’t need to cut for height and do NOT use a torch. I had to cut mine coils to make it fit the upper mount because it had a tab that pointed into the center and I wanted it round, I used a cut off wheel and it seems fine to me and it did not affect the spring length.
Just my opinions
 

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Off Road Design sells bushing end kits for about $12, it includes an outer sleeve, bushing, inner sleeve and hardware



Where's a good place to get Johhny Joints? Do they come in different sizes or just one?
 
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