Suspension 101 - Rock Racing | Xtreme 4x4 | PowerBlockTV - Full Episodes
easier to just watch a video
Any chance you can post some tech on the Dana 50 TTB driveshafts? That would be awesome.I agree with what you are saying, although I like to think of increasing AS as increasing resistance to suspension compression not "increasing grab" as the normal force on the tires isn't changing under constant acceleration. Your explanation is basically my understanding of why the 70% rule. For the reasons you mentioned I think longer lowers generally makes for best AS change through travel. Although instead of 70% I generally shoot for 80% to help mitigate the pinion angle issue.
Additionally I've always built my own driveshafts and lately I've been using Dana 50 TTB axle shaft ends (1350 series) and I can get some rediculus angles out of them. Additionally I usually point the pinion up so it is pointing above the TC output at ride height. People have told me "you can't do that" for "blah blah blah vibe, u-joint wear, reasons, reasons" and I have yet to change a u joint in either of my DS. Additionally I challenge someone to get in my buggy and tell me what exactly is vibrating:flipoff2:
So anyhow pinion angle at full droop has only been an issue for me on my front axle, so I'm considering reworking the front 4 link or possibly making a new front DS out of Dana 60 axle shafts (1480 series). But when it comes to the front axle I wonder whats "the lesser of two evils" pinion angle change and poor DS angle or the castor angle change with travel that would be associated with using longer uppers than lowers.
Edit: Re read and changed top paragraph slightly.
If your goal is maximum flex, this is good advice. Your slip joint won't work as hard. As far as the drive shafts being the same length, There is not really any big advantage. Moving the t-case maybe good for drive shafts and links, but not for weight distribution. There's trade offs for everything.Yes. You will get optimum droop angle out of you driveshaft U joint if the joint is exactly at your lower link mount point. Make them both move in unisun on the same plane.
I like the way you think. I've always thought it would be cool to build a rig with equal length links, driveshafts and have identical axles at both ends. If you really wanted to go to extremes, get center diffs.The advantage is clear to having equal length shafts. One spare.
I always understood this had to do with keeping the axle centered under compression. What with the curvature of the leaf springs and all. The angle cancels out the extension of the leaf as it goes flat under compression. I guess this would pretty much take care of the roll steer.I always wondered why Ford angled the rear of the leaf up.
Strange you would bring this up now. You realize you are quoting me from 3 years ago. In that post, I went on to say that I figured it was for roll steer.I always understood this had to do with keeping the axle centered under compression. What with the curvature of the leaf springs and all. The angle cancels out the extension of the leaf as it goes flat under compression. I guess this would pretty much take care of the roll steer.