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Discussion Starter #1
I've been collecting parts for the past year, and figured I finally have enough parts to warrant tearing the Jeep down. The plan is to build a Ultra4 4600 legal Jeep that still has the ability to hold 2 adults and 2 kids. It will be "street legal". By no means will it be a daily driver, but I want to keep it close enough to street legal, that I could drive it to the local Sonic when the weather's nice.

I'm starting off with a 2006 Jeep LJ / 4.0 / Auto.

Parts list so far:

Rear Axle:
Shaved 14 bolt
Disc conversion with Eldorado calipers
Yukon spool
5.38 r&p turned to clear shave
stock shafts

Front Axle:
89 Ford KP 60
Yukon Zip locker
Reid knuckles
4wheelsupply high steer tied into knuckles
Artec truss and ram mount for TJ swap
Yukon drive slugs
stock inner, and 35 spline 4030 outers
3/4 ton Chevy brakes

Steering:
Modified Sweet servo.
Camara z28 12:1 steerng box converted to manual
PSC DE ram (still need)

Transfer case:
Dana 300 flipped and twin sticked

Fuel:
32 gallon RCI fuel cell with blades
Walbro pickups
Walbro intank pump (still need)
EVAP will still be functional to keep the computer and inspection guy happy.

Shocks:
2.5 x 14 King smoothies
2" x 2" King bumps

Engine:
Stock for now.

Trans:
Stock for now.

Safety:
Seats (still need)
Nets (still need)
Cage (still need)

I'm sure I'm missing a bunch but this is about where I stood when I pulled it in the garage 2 weeks ago and pulled it apart.

Here's what it looked like before I pulled it in the garage.





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Discussion Starter #2
14 bolt shave was fairly uneventful. I set the angle of the diff with my angle finder. Then I used a laser level to mark where to cut. After starting a cut with a grinder on each rib, it was easy to work my way around with a saws-all. I actually made it all the way through with one blade. I should have checked my junk yard housing before I started shaving it. I didn't realize that on of the tubes was bent until after I was done. I ended up ordering some alignment
pucks and straightening the tube myself. I got the shave kit and gears from ECGS. It went together well. One spot on the bottom plate required a little clearancing. Other than that it was smooth sailing.




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Discussion Starter #4
Before I tore the Jeep apart I pre-fabed most of the rear parts to link it. To get as much up travel as possible I ended up having to make my own 14 bolt truss. Class rules prohibit cutting into the tub, and a traditional truss limits clearance. This should get me about 6" of up travel with only a 4.5" spring. I'd like to get more travel in the rear but you run out out of real-estate for springs quickly. I also pre-fabed the upper link mounts, and spring pads.

So far the best spring I've found for the rear is a Rock Krawler 4.5" spring. It will give me about 12" of total travel. Metalcloak makes one that will give me 13.5" of travel, but it lifts the jeep almost 2" higher and most of that travel is down travel, not up. Also the have been completely useless with tech support. They refuse to release "their proprietary" spring rates.

**I'm open to ideas on springs. **

As of now this is where it sits. I will fab up crossmembers for the transmission and transfer case that are independent of the skid plate. Then have one flat skid from the oil pan to the rear links, that sits 2" below the frame rails.

With the 4.5" springs and a 35" tire the skid should be at 21"




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I'll be keeping an eye on this build, looks pretty sweet. Looks like you already started making the truss, but if the top of the diff is your limiting factor for up travel, have you considered shaving the top of the diff as well? That's what I'm planning on doing with the 14 bolt I'm putting in my TJ, but I haven't seen any others do it yet. Did you look at the Currie springs? I'm not sure if they call it an LJ spring, but it's 4.5" vs the normal 4" they sell. Part number CE-9131RH3 I believe, my number is a bit worn off. That's what I'm running right now with about 8" of uptravel in the back on 2.5 12s and it's pretty damn sweet lol
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I'll be keeping an eye on this build, looks pretty sweet. Looks like you already started making the truss, but if the top of the diff is your limiting factor for up travel, have you considered shaving the top of the diff as well? That's what I'm planning on doing with the 14 bolt I'm putting in my TJ, but I haven't seen any others do it yet. Did you look at the Currie springs? I'm not sure if they call it an LJ spring, but it's 4.5" vs the normal 4" they sell. Part number CE-9131RH3 I believe, my number is a bit worn off. That's what I'm running right now with about 8" of uptravel in the back on 2.5 12s and it's pretty damn sweet lol


Limiting factor is coil bind height of the rear spring. I actually have an extra little much to go with a 1” body lift.

Do you know the coil bind height on those springs?

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I'll be keeping an eye on this build, looks pretty sweet. Looks like you already started making the truss, but if the top of the diff is your limiting factor for up travel, have you considered shaving the top of the diff as well? That's what I'm planning on doing with the 14 bolt I'm putting in my TJ, but I haven't seen any others do it yet. Did you look at the Currie springs? I'm not sure if they call it an LJ spring, but it's 4.5" vs the normal 4" they sell. Part number CE-9131RH3 I believe, my number is a bit worn off. That's what I'm running right now with about 8" of uptravel in the back on 2.5 12s and it's pretty damn sweet lol


Limiting factor is coil bind height of the rear spring. I actually have an extra little much to go with a 1” body lift.

Do you know the coil bind height on those springs?

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I left my calipers at work, but eyeballing it with a tape measure the wire diameter is about .625". There's 7 wraps that will stack up so about 4.375" bind height. The very bottom pigtail seems to be able to compress flush with the wrap above it, that's how mine are set up. It may cause the spring to sag after a lot of hard driving if it's designed for it to not do that, but I wasn't worried about it much so I set mine up for 7 wraps at bind. I've beat the crap out of them a fair amount and haven't noticed any sag. My TJ is real light in the back, 31" spare on stock carrier, no tools, just a back seat and hardtop with factory bumper. I probably got closer to 5" of lift, but they were the best spring I could find for uptravel when I was looking. I can get a better wire diameter measurement tomorrow if you'd like. My upper perches are also relocated so the spring is upright and not bowed
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks! If those numbers are current and they have a spring rate that will work I can get 7.5” up and 6.25 down. Even if I sag with fuel, etc I’d still be in the middle of my shock travel and gat almost a full 14”.

Even if I’m over compressing them and have to buy a new set every season, it’d be worth it.

I’ll hit Currie up tomorrow.


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I'll be keeping an eye on this build, looks pretty sweet. Looks like you already started making the truss, but if the top of the diff is your limiting factor for up travel, have you considered shaving the top of the diff as well? That's what I'm planning on doing with the 14 bolt I'm putting in my TJ, but I haven't seen any others do it yet. Did you look at the Currie springs? I'm not sure if they call it an LJ spring, but it's 4.5" vs the normal 4" they sell. Part number CE-9131RH3 I believe, my number is a bit worn off. That's what I'm running right now with about 8" of uptravel in the back on 2.5 12s and it's pretty damn sweet lol
Here’s some discussion on page 2 in this thread about a top shave. Sounds like op is on it. Definitely watching this one.

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general-4x4-discussion/1628794-14-bolt-shave-2.html
 

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You may also want to look at Teraflex. They make a 5" lift, single rate spring. I'm building a TJ that is headed towards a 4500 car, but not sure it will actually go all the way - so it's little steps. For the time being, I am going to be running coils on the rear w/ Fox smoothies. In talking to my shock tuner (Ryan @ AccuTune) he suggested going with a single rate spring as he felt most of the dual rate springs are really too stiff. I bought a pair of the Teraflex ones to try out. Tera didn't have the compressed height, but I believe the wire was around 0.625", but fewer turns. I'll try and get some measurements tonight to estimate the compressed height and report back.
 

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Thanks! If those numbers are current and they have a spring rate that will work I can get 7.5” up and 6.25 down. Even if I sag with fuel, etc I’d still be in the middle of my shock travel and gat almost a full 14”.

Even if I’m over compressing them and have to buy a new set every season, it’d be worth it.

I’ll hit Currie up tomorrow.


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No problem, let me know if you figure out the rates, all I could ever get them to tell me is they're progressive and the first inch is like 90 lbs to compress it or something, not very helpful. But mine work great, 7-8" of up is tits, I was jumping my TJ down at KOH and hitting some big shit the front 2.0s couldn't keep up with. Then I got about 3 feet of air and bent my front axle lol
 

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Discussion Starter #20
looking good...but since you boxed that truss in already now you cant fully weld it to your axle tube

or are you planning to weld it to the diff housing?


I have decided if I need to do that. Seems that there would be at least as much weld area as a normal link mount plus the rigidity of the truss. I already have to preheat and weld my Artec front truss, so I might.


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