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Tyler,

You confident in the placement of that 2nd A-pillar bar?

As well the door bar?

Looks like a pita to crawl in and out of...


To YJ-Unlimited: rig looks badass. Spec's?

-enjoying everyone's fab efforts-!!

--Sherpa
 

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Discussion Starter #122
Tyler,



You confident in the placement of that 2nd A-pillar bar?



As well the door bar?



Looks like a pita to crawl in and out of...





To YJ-Unlimited: rig looks badass. Spec's?



-enjoying everyone's fab efforts-!!



--Sherpa


It’s not that bad. Only a couple inches above the seat side bolster. The A pillar ties into the frame at the front body mount. This is the strongest part of the tub and keeps the frame tie in from being a boat anchor if it’s moved farther back. This caused the A pillar to be at an angle that would loose some strength. The second A pillar fixes that. Ultra4 rules dictate there be a door bar. At the end of the day this isn’t just a trail rig. It will be raced. I want a good door bar high enough to keep someone from driving into my lap.


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I'll second the top concerns voiced previously.

My TJ top (an OEM factory top) is beyond tight, using my roll bars as locators for the door surrounds. Yeah... It looked fine when we welded up the cage, but the top is about a 1/4 or 1/2 inch too tight. You can get it on, but I have to pre-warm the top, and use vice grips to pull with. It's such a PITA that I put it on before hunting season, and take it off on Memorial Day and that's it.

So, if I were to do it again, I'd have test fit it at least once, and probably a couple times, during the cage install.

(edit; on mine, if I don't use the door surrounds it's easy. But then I get rain dripping inside, and I live in Washington, so.....)
 

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Discussion Starter #125
I'll second the top concerns voiced previously.

My TJ top (an OEM factory top) is beyond tight, using my roll bars as locators for the door surrounds. Yeah... It looked fine when we welded up the cage, but the top is about a 1/4 or 1/2 inch too tight. You can get it on, but I have to pre-warm the top, and use vice grips to pull with. It's such a PITA that I put it on before hunting season, and take it off on Memorial Day and that's it.

So, if I were to do it again, I'd have test fit it at least once, and probably a couple times, during the cage install.

(edit; on mine, if I don't use the door surrounds it's easy. But then I get rain dripping inside, and I live in Washington, so.....)



You made me nervous. I had to go out and put the top on. It’s tighter than a fat chicks pants at the buffet but it fits. I think I can do some tweaking to the surrounds to help it a little.


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fat chicks pants at the buffet.......

could have been a Luby's customer.

noted.

lol.

--Sherpa
 

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If the top fits in a garage in winter........I'd think it should do alright once it sits in place a stretches out a bit.

I had my top on and off probably 10 time when I was doing my cage and always felt like I was missing something. Was pleasantly surprised when it fit perfect and I no longer needed to use the bows.

Rest of the rig looks great.
 

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Discussion Starter #128
I got the grill hoop tied into the firewall. I’ll try to get the bar over the engine done and tied into the shock towers tomorrow. Hopefully this stiffens up the front frame.






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Discussion Starter #129
I still need to cut the crossover bar out and make it removable. But got most of the front tubed.









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Discussion Starter #130
I got some time after work to finish up the tube work in the front. I installed flanges to make the crossover bar removable and got the firewall tied into the A pillar.






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your work is awesome, glad you are putting it on here

that said, not sure I understand your vertical tube flanges. I am sure there is a plan. Part of me on these cross bars, years ago when I did mine. I put in flanges to be able to pull the engine. Puling the engine never came. I would be just as easy when that time come to cut them out and make them removable at the time.

really just here to say great work!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #132
your work is awesome, glad you are putting it on here

that said, not sure I understand your vertical tube flanges. I am sure there is a plan. Part of me on these cross bars, years ago when I did mine. I put in flanges to be able to pull the engine. Puling the engine never came. I would be just as easy when that time come to cut them out and make them removable at the time.

really just here to say great work!!!!!


Thanks!

The cross over bar is removable incase I need to get the valve cover off. Since I will be racing it I didn’t want to have to pull the front bumper and winch just to get the valve cover off. The verticals with flanges go to my shock towers. This should help the shock towers from twisting the frame.


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Discussion Starter #136
How is the head clearance to the cross bar above the front seats? Looks like a head banger on a sudden stop.


It’s good. Head clearance is the reason the front and rear X is where it is and does not cross symmetrically. This kept the over head bars as far away from the head area as possible. We are required to have at least 3” clearance with a helmet on.

I’m 5’ 11” and the rear is tight. There is no real way around that. I moved the rear crossmember back as far as possible but with no headrest I could still lean back and hit it. I plan on padding in the rear and I doubt adults will ride there much anyway. Clearance should be fine back there for kids


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Discussion Starter #137
I got the dash figured out for the most part. I wanted to keep the factory cluster. It already has tach, speedo, check engine light, etc. All the mounting tabs are tacked in and I made templates from cardboard and MDF for the aluminum panels. There will be a continuous aluminum panel from A pillar to A pillar on both sides of the dash bar. Then I’ll cut access panels in the front to mount switches and breakers. That way I don’t have to pull the whole dash to make repairs








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Discussion Starter #138
I got most of the fuel cell plumbed and wired for dual Walbro 255s and 4 Walbro pickups. Nothing fancy but it should work. Real estate was tight so I held the pump bracket off the holes for the full flapper. Then held it all together with the studs for the positive wires.







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Discussion Starter #139
Didn’t have much time this weekend, but got the baffles in the fuel cell, the rest of the fuel cell plumbed, and got some more mounts made for lights and pumpers.






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