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LJ, Tons, Stretched, 40's - Late to the party!

9K views 21 replies 6 participants last post by  chakachim 
#1 · (Edited)
Starting a build thread for my 2005 LJ. Currently the jeep is on 37's with factory D44's. I've wheeled it like this for 4 yrs and loved it, getting to the point where I need more “insurance” for the kind of wheeling I like to do.

Always loved these step by step right ups...so I figured I’d make one too.

Been gathering parts the last couple years, finally ready to tackle this. Maybe by now LJ/TJ builds on 40's is boring but for me this is exciting as hell. I have some limited to moderate fabrication/welding skills, this is the biggest project I've tackled....looking forward to the challenge. Will post up pics and progress along the way, this might take awhile....

Plans:
Keep jeep low as possible while reusing front Metalcloak Highline front fenders/flares with rear MC flares mounted to Poison Spyder streched rear quarter panels.
  • 4" rear stretch
  • 3" front stretch
  • Shaved 14B rear (shaved it a couple years ago, been sitting in shop)
  • Front Dana 60
  • 40's
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#3 ·
Waiting on the plasma cutter to get here, so i figured i'd mock up the front and see how things fit, shooting for a 3" stretch, loving the look already!

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Going to try and move it further forward once I get the steering box rotated up and forward.

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#4 ·
Stuffing the shaved 14b under and locating it 4" back.

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Mocking up the rear stretch panels and MC fenders, looks like things will work out. I plan to shift the factory gas tank towards the rear, should clear the 14B housing by 1/2" (its gonna be close)
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#19 · (Edited)
Started on rear brackets... attempting to keep the frame links tucked up. Couldn’t find a bracket that I liked to mount on top of the frame, so I made one. Used some Barnes flat link mounts and made a plate and some gussets to put on top of the frame. It’s gusseted on the bottom too.
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Lower frame brackets at mounted inside the frame rail. Plenty of adjustment to dail in antisquat later. Had to notch the frame to allow clearance for the lower tube. Uses some 2 3/8” drill pipe cut in half and cut to fit the opening.
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I plated the frame before I cut the notch. Not sure if it’s needed, but I felt better being under the frame fitting the notch with this extra steel added.
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