OK so the stock 7m oil pump outlet goes via a banjo fitting out of the pump, into a crappy press bent steel pipe which crosses under the crank and goes into a gallery on the other side of the block which feeds up to the oil filter. The hose and banjo bolt are pretty restrictive, you can replace with aftermarket ones but then the gallery in the block is still the next restriction at about 10mm ID so you dont actually gain all that much.
My billet fitting screws into the pump and finishes flush with the inside of the pan at all the right angles etc, with enough gap for a dowry seal washer. The -12 fitting screws through the pan with an aluminium washer in between for sealing. The pump outlet is ported and retapped to M20 x1.5 to make room for all this to happen, and the fittings are also bored out to maximise flow.
So the oil has now left the pump and engine, it goes via a -12 hose into the cooler, then to the twin filters, then back into the engine via another -12 fitting on the other side. It feeds back into the main oil gallery where the filter screws on in a stock system. The gallery that was bypassed has a press in plug to stop leaks and that's about it. Pain in the ass to assemble it all though!!
I got the ecu and wiring finished late last week and on Good Friday it fired up for the first time but would only run for a few seconds then die
Added some more VR conditioning inside the ecu around the campfire while i was away, refitted it when i got home Easter Monday and was able to get it running pretty well, good enough to go out for a test drive and road tune even
Been rooting around with it all week fixing little issues and also chasing a random misfire which i finally nailed down today to the ignitors in the ecu not coping with firing 2 coils each so ive added 3 more BIP373's and the spark is miles hotter, i took it for a quick test drive and seems like the misfire is all gone. Happy days!!
It's only tuned pretty roughly and i havent had it much over 4000rpm yet but already it pulls like a train. Loads of torque and instant throttle response. The tune is getting better though and it's already pretty driveable now especially with the misfires fixed. It lights up the tyres as soon as you even look at the throttle, needs an LSD asap. Cant wait to see how it goes once tuned properly and i can get it up on cam.
The R150f frankenbox seems to work well, can select all gears, no nasty noises at all to speak of. Gearing feels pretty good too, damn that 0.69:1 5th is tall. Will be great on the highway.
Power steering works great too although it takes quite a few seconds to pump up.
Electric water pump system seems great so far. Engine gets upto temperature really quickly then fluctuates back and forward from 85 to 86 degrees, right where the "thermostat" is set on the controller. Even when being driven hard it doesnt go over 86. Fans pull monstrous amounts of air and only ever run for a few seconds.
Clutch leak is a pain in the ass. Doesnt lose any fluid sitting overnight but as soon as you drive it the reservoir is empty in about 15 minutes. Ive replaced the AN fitting at the end of the bleed line but the leak is further up, in the bellhousing. Doubt ill fix it without pulling the gearbox but ill try.
Need to muck around with the instrument cluster a bit more to get the tacho and oil pressure light working, ive also got a couple of oil leaks to fix but nothing major.
Off to the dyno Sunday morning to see if we can get the tune dialled in a bit better, cant wait to see how it goes once i feel confident in giving it some beans!!!
One of the fancy push lock hose fittings, straight out of the oil cooler, burst off mid pull and emptied 6.5lt of oil onto the dyno room floor in about half a second. By the time we buttoned off it was already too late. It lost over 50kw on that pull compared to the previous one so we knew some damage had been done.
This isnt a good start...
Big end bearings were pretty tired and had wiped bearing material all over them, crank journals werent looking too bad though.
6 out of 7 mains were absolutely perfect, you could nearly have reused the bearings.
Unfortunately the centre main bearing spun and welded itself to the crank. The thrust bearings are pretty cooked too.
Will drop another crank off at the machine shop this morning for all the usual treatments, find another set of bearings and cross my fingers ill get away without line boring the main tunnel.
On the plus side, the tune is 90% done and it was making stonkin' power for an NA 7m. We've still got more timing to add and a few more revs to play with. We started with the rev limiter at 6000, bumped it upto 7000 for the last few runs but it hasnt fallen off the cams yet so we'll go for 8000 or higher once it's back together.
A stock rebuild does around 100rwkw so im pretty happy with the 150ish its at now, with a bit more to go.
Nice flat torque curve should make it pretty driveable too. Looks like we need to move the ACIS switching point up a bit to get rid of that dip at 4500rpm but that's easy fixed.
Oh, and ill be wiring a low oil pressure cutoff into the ecu as well. Shutting the gate after the horse has bolted and all that.
Not sure what ill do about the oil hoses yet but needless to say all the pushlock rubbish is going in the bin.
It seems i was given a bum steer with this pushlock stuff, and the hose in particular. Pretty pissed off as i went in asking for braided and was told this was better, more repairable in the bush if needed etc. What they didnt tell me that ive just found out is the stupid hose they supplied is only rated to 100c! WTF!! How do you sell oil hose thats only rated to 100 degress??!?! So much rage at my hydraulic shop right now. Ive been going to the same place for around 10 years, they man i deal with there is a car guy and has been in the industry for 15 + years. How he could sell me this shit when i came in asking for the right stuff is beyond me. Needless to say im f*cking angry.
Obviously the hose was above its operating temperature and degraded/expanded enough til it came off.
Oh well, life goes on. Ive got the front of the motor all stripped down and the gearbox/transfer are ready to drop out as soon as i get some extra muscle over.
New, teflon braided oil lines are being made today with proper crimped fittings
Crank will hopefully be back by end of the week or early next, ill sort out the clutch and a couple of other small jobs while i wait.
Interested to see the carnage when i finally get the crank out, looks like the bearing turned to liquid at one point and started to run down the thrust bearing
TBH its been pretty heartbreaking pulling apart all this stuff i just spent so many hours putting together, but ill push through. Hopefully im less of a sad panda once it starts going back together again.
Still havent got the crank back from the machine shop unfortunately so ive been chipping away at all the small unfinished jobs with the hope of having it pretty much ready to drive as soon as the engine goes back together.
Gearbox and clutch/flywheel out which allowed me to remove the crank. The centre main bearing came out with the crank and had to be removed with a hammer and chisel. Shit got hot. Surprisingly the rest of the crank is pretty good.
Got some spankin new oil lines made up with proper crimped on fittings. Apparently this is the same stuff the v8 supercar guys use, it cost a bomb but hopefully it wont let me down!
I actually got to crimp the fittings on myself with their fancy hydraulic tool which was kinda fun. This hose has an amazing bend radius so i ditched the bendy spring things and ran the main line back into the motor a bit neater than before.
Changed a few little niggles in the wiring, mostly PS pump and fans now only come on when the engine is running but not while cranking, on/off/auto switches for both and a warning light for if the fans are disabled.
Unfortunately the ecu doesnt have provision to do an oil pressure safety how i would like it so instead ive set the oil pressure switch up as a table switch input into the ecu, then zero'd out all the fuel cells above 1500rpm in the second fuel table which basically gives me an oil pressure based rev limit. Should allow the car to start at least and wont give me a hard (possibly dangerous) shut down if i lose pressure on the road.
Made up a little circuit with relay logic to drive the R150f transfer case electric actuator to engage 4x4 without the need for the Toyota A.D.D. ecu
Sorted out a speedo drive
Sorted out the clutch lines, bench tested it all and no leaks woot
Made up a couple of little brackets so the WRX seats now have the 4th bolt in each
Shortened and re-ran the throttle cable slightly so it's lighter and not sticky
Got a few more little jobs to tidy off but im anxious to get the crank back so i can start reassembling the engine. We are going camping at a big private property in just under 4 weeks and i'd really really like to take this thing along. This trip last year is what inspired me to buy a 4x4 in the first place after riding around the property in a couple of other utes, i'd really love to have my own there this year. Just have to reassemble half the engine and car, shake it down, get it engineered, get a roadworthy, get it registered and then shaken down enough to go on a big trip 4 hours from home. I sense a few more late nights coming up....
It had a leak out of the fitting right at the master cylinder where i assembled the AN fitting onto the hose. i cropped an inch off it and put the fitting back on, all good now.
I also ditched the external bleed line altogether. There is inspection holes in the bellhousing just large enough to squeeze a hand into so i fitted the stock bleed back into the slave cylinder which eliminates about half a dozen potential leak points in the system
I threw all of the hoses and fittings back at the hose shop yesterday and they refunded all my money with minimal fuss. About the best i could hope for.
No link or schematic for the t-case doodad sorry, its all in my head!
Basically it's a pair of DPDT relays, each of which control the motor with one set of polarity. Each relay coil negative is wired through the motor limit switch for its given direction of travel (there are 2 switches in the actuator)
The third relay is a simple 5 pin changeover relay which sends +12v to either DPDT relay depending whether the selector switch is open or closed circuit.
So basically the motor drives itself until it hits a limit switch, from there on it's unpowered until the selector switch changes state, at which point it powers up the other DPDT relay who flips the polarity and drives the motor backwards til it hits the other limit switch.
Well after a long wait at the machine shop i got the crank back just over a week ago. In the meantime i had chased up some nice NDC bearings for it and knocked a few other jobs over.
Main one was getting an LSD fitted in the rear and rebuilding the whole diff while i was at it. New bearings and seals throughout, new brake shoes and a tricked up limo centre to be nice and tight. I had to buy a press to do the damn wheel bearings, they arent an easy change. This also meant disassembling and reassembling the drum brakes, which i hate with a passion!
Fitted a fire extinguisher, charcoal canister, gearbox/diff breathers, added an extra exhaust hanger, wired up the reverse and 4x4 indicator lights and a heap of other little jobs.
Been playing with the idle speed stepper motor and have got it to move at least now, but not properly. Still working on that one.
Got offered a battery for it that was too good to pass up, 1400cca and 490ah deep cycle AGM. Built an alloy box for it to sit in the corner of the tray and ran some heavy ass cable upto the engine bay where it goes into an isolator switch and a jump/charge terminal. This will be the sole battery so i have a nice little volts/amps gauge coming that will allow me to run the fridge/lights/etc and have them turn off automatically when the voltage drops too low, still i expect this should run the fridge for a good few hours before that happens!
With the space left over from the battery i hard mounted my little compressor and added and air line/tyre inflator under the bonnet, save having it all rattle around behind the seats.
Onto the more important news!
I got the engine back together during the week and fired it up again on Saturday. It ran well with no huge leaks or nasty noises
By sunday i had the rest of the car together enough to take it for its first decent drive, all the way out of my suburb even!! It's the first time ive driven it more than a couple of blocks since the day i bought it. Tune still needs some work but on the whole it runs really well. So torquey and responsive, it just pulls instantly when you touch the throttle no matter what speed you're doing.... and when you punch it, lets just say an old 'lux shouldnt be able to move like that!!! It's scary as hell but hilarious at the same time.
Got a few more small issues to sort out this week, hope to have it a bit more sorted by the weekend.
Took the Hilux for an extended road test over the weekend including some off road work at the mrs family's farm a few hours northeast of melbourne. Did about 600km all up with no issues which im bloody stoked about!!!
Went really well off road too, i had a ball. It just eats up big hills no questions asked. Im still getting the hang of the low range gearing but it just pulls no matter what gear its in.
F*cking terrifying on the road in the rain though.
Well a couple of weeks ago a nice old lady decided i needed some more motivation to finish this so she blew through a red light without even slowing down and totalled my daily
I've been working away ever since getting the few last bits and pieces on the truck finished off so i have something to drive while insurance gets sorted out.
Ive been through all the various BS government inspections and muggings required to register a modified vehicle in this nanny state but finally i have a road legal truck.
Final registration got done in Wangaratta (north east Victoria) as i had commitments up there for the week so within an hour of getting rego we were off into the state forest and plantation areas just out of Beechworth (30 mins east) to do some exploring and much anticipated wheeling. Spent a few hours on both Tuesday and Wednesday mucking around so got to cover a lot of the tracks in the area. Had an absolute blast and the truck performed admirably. Nothing compared to the hardcore crawling you guys do, but good fun for a newbie who's restricted to 31's and 2" of lift.
There were a couple of real steep climbs where the 7m absolutely shines by having both low down torque and a high rev limit. No need to change gears mid climb, trundle along just off idle in low 2nd and if things get iffy then peg it and she just shoots upwards with much gusto!!
New tyres work great in the mud and clay we encountered, they bite really well when you give it a bit of stick and are quiet on the highway even well over 60 mph. Accidentally pegged the speedo overtaking in 3rd at one point which was downright terrifying on leafs and 80's toyota brakes.
The mrs and i had an absolute ball and cant wait to get amongst it some more. Next step is to drive it, enjoy it, learn about driving offroad and start to work on the touring setup with the rooftop tent etc. But right now im just stoked to be able to drive it!!!!!
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