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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
9mm minor for USPSA Carry optics, production, and PCC.

Hornady L-n-L press. (watching vids on setup and dialing it in. Save the shoulda bought a Mk7 or 1050 crap:flipoff2:)

Found a deal I couldn't pass up on a well equipped LnL. Not in it to win it, so I don't need 10k rounds a month. I shoot 200-300 a month practice currently and plan on trying to hit a couple matches a month and shoot carry optics mainly. Just out to have fun.

I already reload primarily on a single stage for rifle, I've used my FIL's LnL for rifle, using 2 chargemasters for powder, no case feed or bullet feed, or powder throw. This press came with a case feed, and I plan on using the bullet tube feed. (came with the stuff for 10mm/40, but I don't own a .40 and don't shoot enough 10mm to reload)

How are you setting up your press?
Size/de-prime
Powder
Bullet feed
bullet seat
crimp

I like the idea of a powder cop, so I'd maybe combine seat/crimp? Any life changing kit or tricks I need to know?

As far as loads, I LOVE to shoot my AR9 suppressed, so I'm thinking a 145-147 coated bullet around 128PF. Should be good for matches and wasting ammo in the AR9.

POWDER: Looking to try Cleanshot if I can find it locally for a decent price.

BULLETS: This seems to be some of the best $ for what I'm looking for. Other options?
9mm 145gr Round Nose/Bevel Base/No Groove (725ct., $0.058/bullet)

BRASS:Thinking here. Says no military, which I like. I have pounds of crimped NATO that I'm too lazy to deal with already.
https://www.armorally.com/shop/once-fired-9mm-brass/?v=7516fd43adaa

Anything else to add?

Thanks

Vince
 

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im going to keep an eye on this one because i should probably load up the 2k i have kicking around. i was using 700x and 125gr coated lead before and will still probably stick to the 700x just because i have an 8lb jug of it but need some more bullets.
 

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I use a L-N-L progressive for .45, .357 and .44. Just getting into setting up my 9mm dies but having some issues fine tuning for the Berry's Bullets (not a L-n-L problem). I can run 700-800 rounds an hour without any bullet or case feeders.

1 - Decap/size
2 - Expand
3 - Powder drop
4 - RCBS powder cop
5 - Seater/crimp/tamper

Tips:

- Buy several retainer springs for the die plate
- Buy several bushings (enough for all your dies and powder cops)
- Buy multiple primer pick up tubes. Stopping every 100 round to pick up primers sucks. I like having several tubes ready to load
- Might want to check the depth of the die plate main bolt however. I had to add some washers as the bolt was slightly long and bottoming out before getting good torque on die plate

If you are going to load a lot of different calibers I found it easier to buy a separate lower section of the powder drop so I only need to swap that part out and its set to the right depth for quicker caliber swaps (its based on case length)
 

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I use a lee loadmaster, so this won’t probably work on the lnl:
1) case feeder to decap/resize
2) prime
3) expand/charge
4) bullet feeder to seat die
5) crimp
If I had another station I’d do a powder check, but I don’t, so I’m thinking of mounting a small camera that can see in the case after charging that I can watch on a iPad or a monitor.
I buy Xtreme plated bullets at .08/ea for plinkers, w231 powder.
 

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You need to resize then check and trim your brass length. So multi stage press only works for new or prepped brass. I can buy 9mm cheap enough to not bother reloading except hp defense loads.

I usually resize on a single stage, trim with a Lee trimmer and drill. Then run through prime/flair , powder, bullet seat, then lee crimp die.

My 2 cents.
 

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You need to resize then check and trim your brass length. So multi stage press only works for new or prepped brass. I can buy 9mm cheap enough to not bother reloading except hp defense loads.

I usually resize on a single stage, trim with a Lee trimmer and drill. Then run through prime/flair , powder, bullet seat, then lee crimp die.

My 2 cents.
No need to trim on sw brass, it gets shorter every firing.

If you are new to reloading or progressive presses dont use tire group. Too easy to get a double charge. Learn on something with higher volume and change later

Now buying 9mm right now can make sense. It's 7-8c for a bullet, 2c for a primer and about 1.5c for powder, so around 12cpr. Factory is going to 16cpr. So if you can load 300 rounds per hour your paying yourself $12/hr, but that level is hard to get to when you look at the whole process - sorting, cleaning, loading, spot checking, storing, etc.

Sent from my F5321 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I've been anti-reload 9mm for years. $.16 a round is tough after shipping and/or tax. Way easier to buy bulk supplies and then load as needed than to try and hunt a deal and wait for shipping.

Totally spaced the powder through expander. Added that to the cart.

I've read mixed reviews on the combo seat/crimp. Mainly about setup which is a one time pain.
 

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Lead is one of the biggest costs in reloading. It might be worthwhile making one load for gaming (115 or 124gr), and one for supressed.

4.0gr of TG with a 124gr bullet (plated or jacketed) has been reliable and accurate in every gun I've ever tried - and makes minor PF. I've loaded probably 50k this way.

I haven't done the math for awhile, but I used to load this for $.10 per round. At that time Winchester value packs at Walmart were about $20 per 100 with tax, so reloading saves $.10 per round. My reloading setup ran about $1000 (Dillon 650), so it paid for itself in 10,000 rounds.

FYI - If you are shooting competition, some of that 'cheap' factory ammo doesn't even make minor power factor. I saved a buddy a big heartache by encouraging him to chrono his Remington 9mm before going to USPSA nationals.
 

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I have a Dillon 650 just for 147gr. 9mm. It keeps up with three subguns and hasn't focked up yet.

The only problem I have with the reloaded rounds is when using the brass after going through the subguns. It cycles through the Dillon just fine, but the generous chambers tend to swell the breech area of the brass to where it may not chamber in the Glocks. I separate it so subgun reloads go through them only.

I use any brass...even crimped Nato, Berry's plated 147's and whatever Win. powder I scored cheap. I'm running about four grains of powder and it keeps the open bolts open without any runaways. Any lower and they can run away.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Making some progress.

Ran into a issue right off the bat. The LnL did not work with my Lee bench plate setup. I didn't want to ditch the bench plate setup, so I headed over to my buddies shop and we whipped up a adapter plate. Works perfect.




I'm a little irked by the design of the bracket that holds the bin to catch finished rounds. It wraps up around the back covering a screw on the bench plate and a mount bolt for the press. No idea why it's like that. I may give it a go and if it serves no purpose, trim it off.

Visited a couple local sources for reloading supplies and managed to pick up almost everything I needed to convert to 9mm.

Small pistol plate for case feeder
Bullet through die
Seat and crimp die (RCBS)
#8 Shell plate

Ordered the powder through expander and bullet tubes. I did find DIY bullet tube hacks for damn cheap. I may add that in the future as well. Can't remember the search term, but I saved the product in my cart. It's 7/16 thin wall clear plastic tubing for aquariums. Comes in 36" length for $10 shipped from Amazon. Rumor is if you can find it locally it's like $2. Compare to $30 for 3 tubes that look to be about 16" from Hornady.

I did note that the expander showed .355 for 9mm and the bullets I'm ordering say .356.


Watching the 76Highboy series on the press and going through my press along with him.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IX-dDZR0G2o

I've already done all the mods from vid 1 & 2. Waiting on the powder through to set up powder in vid 3.

Was unable to find Cleanshot locally, going to try Sport Pistol. basically looking for anything cleaner than titegroup that meters well.

Did come across a interesting swage tool for the LnL, 5 stations. At $85 + the time involved still think I'll sell all my NATO brass and skip dealing with al the BS.
 

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You need to resize then check and trim your brass length. So multi stage press only works for new or prepped brass. I can buy 9mm cheap enough to not bother reloading except hp defense loads.

I usually resize on a single stage, trim with a Lee trimmer and drill. Then run through prime/flair , powder, bullet seat, then lee crimp die.

My 2 cents.
No need to trim on sw brass, it gets shorter every firing.

If you are new to reloading or progressive presses dont use tire group. Too easy to get a double charge. Learn on something with higher volume and change later

Now buying 9mm right now can make sense. It's 7-8c for a bullet, 2c for a primer and about 1.5c for powder, so around 12cpr. Factory is going to 16cpr. So if you can load 300 rounds per hour your paying yourself $12/hr, but that level is hard to get to when you look at the whole process - sorting, cleaning, loading, spot checking, storing, etc.

Sent from my F5321 using Tapatalk
Unless it’s new brass, you need to trim it all to same length or crimping will be a nightmare. I run mostly mixed headstamps and they are all over the map as far as case length. After the first trim they are good to go. And the lee crimp die is your daddy.
 

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i never trimmed 9 mm brass, or any pistol brass.
reload it till cases split.
been reloading since 1992.
 

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Yeah, don't waste time trimming pistol brass.

Don't know a single person that does, and I shoot with some high level competition guys that run tens of thousands of rounds a year.
 

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I had trouble getting constant crimps with mixed headstamp lots of brass. I measure and sort with a gauge. Only about 30% needs trimming. Accuracy was a lot better for me using that method even with the Lee crimp die. Your mileage may vary, but at least check them.
 

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Okay:

As a seasoned reloader, PCC, and minor handgun reloader...

A question first:

Is your PCC compensated? If so, skip the coated bullets and titegroup. Cleanshot or N320 or Sport Pistol perhaps. With a coated bullet or FMJ over titegroup you will load up the comp like crazy.

The guys running a PCC hard with success are almost all running a 115-124gr bullet at around 140pf. I run a 115 plated in mine. They shoot flatter than a 147, and in some barrels they’re more accurate.

I run a 147 bluebullet over the powder of the day (currently Prima V) right now. Whythat bullet? Because I got them insanely cheap on black friday last year. Once this batch of 10,000 is used up I’ll switch over to a 124gr Precision Delta for everything PCC and handgun. They’re accurate as hell.

My biggest gripe about newer USPSA shooters is their obsession over tuning their load for minimal recoil over all other objectives. That’s ridiculous. Load for accuracy, and in PCC focus on a flat-shooting gun with minimal dot bounce. Recoil is a secondary consideration.
 

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I've read mixed reviews on the combo seat/crimp. Mainly about setup which is a one time pain.
you're seating the bullet as it is being crimped
meaning you'll shave off a ring of lead at the case mouth that'll bind up tighter headspaced guns


my g19 does not like it one bit, where my hi-power clone eats anything that the glock needs the back of the slide hammered to go into battery
 

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I've read mixed reviews on the combo seat/crimp. Mainly about setup which is a one time pain.
I load on a Lee Classic Turret. The seat/crimp is great for plated or jacketed bullets. The seat in one step & crimp in a separate step (LFCD) really shines with cast or coated bullets, especially if you're using mixed headstamp brass. Prevents shaving lead when using mixed headstamp brass and just makes life easier.

Old timers rail against the LFCD calling it a bandaid for sloppy practices and they've been loading for decades without one etc etc. Well... they probably still drive three on the tree, too. :rolleyes:

FWIW I don't really call it "crimp" on cartridges that headspace on the case mouth. It's more "de-belling." Gotta make sure that ALL the flare is gone. You can check with caliper jaws and the MKI eyeball but I've found that feel is just as accurate. If there is flare left you will feel it.
 

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FWIW I don't really call it "crimp" on cartridges that headspace on the case mouth. It's more "de-belling." Gotta make sure that ALL the flare is gone. You can check with caliper jaws and the MKI eyeball but I've found that feel is just as accurate. If there is flare left you will feel it.
^ This. I don’t crimp for lack of neck tension, just enough to close the mouth straight. I’ve never caught a compressed or extended round when clearing a gun... and I do look.
 

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Uniform Case Length

General question on reloading 9mm from my own once fired brass. Have saved about 1,100 cases since I got my Ruger back in 2012. I have reloaded for many years, but bottleneck rifle. I have a Lee Challenger press for sizing and the little $29 Lee Breech Lock Press used exclusively to deprime. I then clean, and size the clean cases. Going to pistol cases, mixed brands, is trimming ALL THE cases necessary ? If yes, then it seems to me I can rack a case on a Lee trim stud and spin it just as easily as I can measure it. Is the exact uniform case length necessary to function with standard book loads 147gr in a Ruger P-95? Not comp ammo or anything special, I have the 4-die carbide die set. - thanks :mr-t:
 
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