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thhhpptthh!
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anyone know where to find replacement parts for stock lock-o-matic hubs?

i need some parts. Specifically, internally threaded collar that has like 6 itsy bitsy set screws in it. and also, washer with slots in it that the set screws drive into.

Anyone know WTF these 2 peices do? i cant figure it out?

Nate.
 

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Those parts keep your wheel bearings in place and keep the hub/rotor/tire/wheel from walking away while you're going down the road!
 

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thhhpptthh!
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
tsm1mt said:
Those parts keep your wheel bearings in place and keep the hub/rotor/tire/wheel from walking away while you're going down the road!
but it has a regular bearing retainer nut also??
 

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sceep said:


but it has a regular bearing retainer nut also??
It's been a while, but..

IIRC, the hex-nut is used to adjust the wheel bearing preload n' such.

The round washer with holes then goes on. It has a tab that goes into the spindle notch.

Then the round nut goes on, and the set-screws go through the nut into tabbed round washer's holes.

This locks the round nut from loosening, which in turn keeps the round washer with holes from moving, which keeps the wheel bearing hex adjusting nut from moving.

This is the preferred setup, over the non-Auto hub arrangement, which uses a hex-nut, then a flat washer, then a second hex nut.

You then bend the flat washer over onto the outer hex nut to keep it from loosening.
 

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I don't know how many of those little set screws I have broken.... I didn't even realize they were on there the first couple hubs I took apart.

Here is what you do. Clean up all the Lock-o-matic parts you have. Put them on ebay (list them "As is")- sell them to someone who doesn't wheel thier scout offroad. Take your profits and buy a set of Warn Premium hubs. Best us of a Lock-o-matic I have ever found.

But if you want to run them - toss out those spindle set screw nuts thing-a-ma-bobs and just run nut/flat washer with tab/nut. Real easy and you can get a solid engagement with the right size socket to set the torque correctly.
 

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uglyscout said:


But if you want to run them - toss out those spindle set screw nuts thing-a-ma-bobs and just run nut/flat washer with tab/nut. Real easy and you can get a solid engagement with the right size socket to set the torque correctly.
If you do that, you lose the round surface that the lock-o-matic portion of the hub uses to engage the locking rollers. Am I wrong here? There are some little phenolic looking rub blocks that have a light spring wrapped around them. These blocks rub on the OD of the round spindle nut.

Throwing the round spindle nut away assures that the lock-o-matic won't work.

I had a set of these on my '76 and they weren't up to the task of heavy duty wheeling, but I loved them for a daily driver/light wheeler. Good for driving in the snow on the highway, too. They let the front end overrun the back and prevented the drivetrain from winding up on pavement.

Using them for real 'wheeling, I couldn't keep the bolts tight. For real 'wheeling, a set of normal hubs is the way to go. Internal ones preferably.
 

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Correct

Jason Lockwood said:


If you do that, you lose the round surface that the lock-o-matic portion of the hub uses to engage the locking rollers. Am I wrong here? There are some little phenolic looking rub blocks that have a light spring wrapped around them. These blocks rub on the OD of the round spindle nut.

Throwing the round spindle nut away assures that the lock-o-matic won't work.

I had a set of these on my '76 and they weren't up to the task of heavy duty wheeling, but I loved them for a daily driver/light wheeler. Good for driving in the snow on the highway, too. They let the front end overrun the back and prevented the drivetrain from winding up on pavement.

Using them for real 'wheeling, I couldn't keep the bolts tight. For real 'wheeling, a set of normal hubs is the way to go. Internal ones preferably.
You are right on the money. The blocks had to rub on the round corners to engage correctly. Get rid of the round ring, and I don't think things would even fit correctly. The round washer was keyed to spindle to keep it from spinning, and the blocks sandwiched down on top of that. If you have an extra nut in there, I am pretty sure the blocks have no place to go.....

I am with you. Keep the lock o matics for a resto job, and throw on some warn internal spline manual locking hubs. Much, much stronger.

Although, there is something to be said for being able to drive into deep snow, shift into four wheel drive and have both axles pulling, without having to dig the snow (or mud) from around the hubs to lock them... ;)

Of course, a little foresight and planning would eliminate most of that problem...
 

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Jason Lockwood said:


If you do that, you lose the round surface that the lock-o-matic portion of the hub uses to engage the locking rollers. Am I wrong here? There are some little phenolic looking rub blocks that have a light spring wrapped around them. These blocks rub on the OD of the round spindle nut.

Throwing the round spindle nut away assures that the lock-o-matic won't work.

.
I did not know that! I had actually never put any back on a truck - I always just took them off.
Good info to know.
 

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throw those pieces of shit out!!!

ever have one lock on you at highway speed outa the blue?

I have...and I cant believe something on a 4x4 could make that much bad noise and nothing be severly broken

i second or third or what ever the warn internals...and the 30 spline drive flange even makes it stronger


i did get a rebuild kit from warn not to long ago for a restore that the guy had to have them:confused: :rolleyes: randy at warn said they have old stuff if you ask they are pack rats like some of us and never throw shit out
 
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