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Discussion Starter #1
I'm running a Lockwrong in my rear 12 bolt.

Kindly sad to say but I couldn't even drive up my driveway this afternoon without locking it in 4WD:laughing: :laughing: :laughing: The driverside wheel wasn't getting any power at all and the pass. side would just spin in the gravels. I jacked the rear up and pulled the diff cover. When you spin the driverside tire like your going foward the 2 plates just slide without locking together. Spinning the tire like your in rev. they lock up like they ought to. The passenger side locks up either direction like it ought to. Would this mean the plates are wore on the driverside. I would guess the springs and pins but it locks fine in reverse.

I know alot of guys don't like the 12 bolt and probly going to a 60 would be better. Unfortunately,thats not really an option right now. Just wanting to know if I'm on the right track. If the locker is to badly worn I think getting a used spider gear set and welding it up might be better than buying a new lockright. I've been thinking of going this way anyway cuz the racheting is kindly getting on my nerves.

What do ya'll think?

Thanks
 

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did you forget the thrust washer on just the one side that isn't locking? I have been through a lot of troubles with a D60 lockright I had doing similar things. I never did get it solved, ended up giving it away and buying a detroit, but some of hte stuff power trax told me to do was: add another set of thrust washers, makeing two per side. replace the dowels and springs. and as a last resort try grinding the center pin into a <> shape in the middle of the pin where is places force on the locker halves and causes them to spread. None of this shit worked for me however, but I learned later on this board that a tweeked houseing or poorly machined carrier can cause similar trouble. I really dont see a whole lot of point in haveing a rear locker anyhow unless the rig spends more time on road than off... I have always run spooled or welded rears. They are much more predictable, especialy in SWB vehichles and for the little bit that my junk is on road, I dont really care about a bit of tire scrub and extra wear. Well worth the traction that is always ther ein my opinion. Good luck whatever you descide.

Later,
Jason
 

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Find the thickest shim you can for that side. If you have to double up on thinner shims.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well,I bought the rearend about 3 years ago for $200 already geared and set up with the lockright in it. It's worked flawlessly every since I finished my build. I have no idea how many miles are on it,what size tires were run on it before or anything. I'm just figuring that it's about wore out. Now that I think about it,a few weeks ago I took my uncle for a small trip on the mountain. I remember that the rear was popping (ratcheting) a good deal more than it usually did.

I don't really want to dump anymore cash into it cuz I'd like to build a better axle eventually. I'm just trying to make due with it till I can. I believe I'm just gonna round up some old spiders and weld it up. Probly be cheaper and easier that way.
 

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Pull out the locker, and switch the outer couplers left for right. It sounds goofey buy has actually worked on a few long use DD lockrights. I know of one with 30K then it started slipping, switched it. ran another 10k and sold it still working.
 
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