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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am planning on installing the AP hysteer and running their 3" springs with extended shackles (1 1/2" over stock). My concern, given I am fairly new to this game, is how well a spring like AP's is going to handle on the street? While I do a fair bit of offroading, I also use this rig for hunting and do some fairly long trips. As a result, I am trying to figure out what to expect in terms of handling. Also are there things (i.e. as running a relatively stiff shock) that will help compensate for running a soft spring on the highway? Thanks for answering my rather gay newbie question.

My rig is an '85 4runner, 33x12.5x15 (likely going to 35's), weight distribution is roughly 2,150 lbs. per axle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Any key word recommendations? I have spent 3-months researching this, reading every pertinent post I can find on springs. As you can see by my post count, I don't tend to have a lot of questions searching the archives cannot answer. This is one I have seen just about nothing on during my time checking out spring info on this board. There is tons of info on how various springs perform on trail, but not alot about how they do getting to and from (or at least not that I found).
 

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My SAS Toyota has had a pair of AllPros up front for the last 10,000+ miles. I run 36" TSLs.

There are a few things that will help make it handle infintiely better.

1. Sway bar. Period. Find a way to run a sway bar up front. It will improve your handling 10 times over. Just disconnect it for the trail.
2. Tires. Run MT/Rs if you are worried enough about road ride to start a post on it. TSL, TSL/SX, Claws, etc. if you can take the punishment on the road in return for greater off road performance.
3. Shocks, shocks, shocks. This is the most important. If I had to do it over again, I'd order four 14" Bilstein 5100s from someone. I rode in a buddies rig that runs them, and it's impressive. Theyre firm but not harsh. (Unlike an RS5000)... Also, monotube shocks truly don't care if they are run inverted, and I have to run my front shocks inverted to clear the massive Kong's highsteer arms.

I think a big difference is that the bilsteins seem like the damp comression and rebound, while most shocks only really seem to control rebound. Vastly improved the ride in that truck. I'll be getting a set, someday. :D
 

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TNToy said:
1. Sway bar. Period. Find a way to run a sway bar up front. It will improve your handling 10 times over. Just disconnect it for the trail.
ROTFLMAO Either my susp is stiff as a board or I could care less. I have never ran a swaybar since I owned my junk.

I do agree on the shocks though. I'm going to have 14" bill's front and rear on my junk when it's reborn
 

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[Pissy Defensive Bitch Mode: ON]
Chris, I don't run a sway bar, either. Then again, my truck is covered with mud inside and out, there's no top on it (it snowed last night) it still has a muddy tow strap running from the bumper, up the tailgate, and behind the front seats. ..and I run swampers on my DD. I couldn't care less about the road ride. :D

However, your rig was similar to mine (before you went to Moab, anyway :flipoff2:.) in that it was a semi-hardcore rig and a DD. You aren't saying you don't have a TON of body roll compared to a stock height rig like this guys, are ya?

That's all I meant. If you want a truck with a flexy lift that rides anything like anything remotely resembling a stock truck,... swaybard and shocks are key. ;)
[Pissy Defensive Bitch Mode: OFF]
 

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It's nothing like stock, but nothing unbearable. It's not like you can take a hard left and the passenger can touch the pavement, but yes, it does roll, but IMO it's subtle and not that bad. I also suck at driving to :flipoff2: (thanks for the moab props bitatch) :p

Trade ya rings??? I wanna wheel :(
 

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i'd go OME

I had the same question as you did when i was building my rig and I chose to stick the all pro springs in the back. I went with Old Man Emu up front but I took the overload leaf out of my old rear spring pack and chopped some off both ends. I stuck the new "short overloads" under the OME spring pack on the front end.
OME rides real smooth, it's great on the road and off.

I'm running RS9000s which I put on the stiff setting for highway driving. I get a bit of body roll but it's not bad.

I actually, went with 35x12.50 Wrangler MT/Rs. I selected them based on their stiffness and a fairly close tread pattern which seems to have translated to a bit less road noise than some other tires. I made this decision after talking with quite a few guys who love those wranglers. I like em too but I don't really have a reference for comparison at this point. Thoughts anyone?
 

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http://home.off-road.com/~bibelheimer/sas.html#swaybar

My rig is perfectly drivable w/o the swaybar, but its much nicer to drive on the street w/ it connected. Way less body roll and better steering response (especially with the stiff Taco sway bar).

I drive at least 80 miles every day going to work and back, and I don't like doing it any slower than I have to. ;)

It also makes drives up curvey mountain roads to and from the trail faster and nicer too.
 

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i used to drive 40 miles each way too and from work in a vehicle nearly identical to eriks. early 4runners on 35's with 4" allpros up front and longer rearsprings with dual shackles. it has more body roll and nose dives a bit when braking hard compared to stock, otherwise it was perfectly fine whether on soup can rock, or i80.....:D
 
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