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Discussion Starter #1
I had sent another set of the early RR'er cv's to Bobby for a spare set to do his treatment too. Bobby called me yesterday and said he really likes the strenght and mat'l in this particular type cv. He said he felt it really doesnt need the ring welded on and decided to treat this set differently. What he did was disassemble the cv's and he cryo'd everything but the balls. He then annealed/stress relieved the bell and re-assembled. I had also sent the drive flange/stem and he feels certain that will now be the fuse in this set-up. I will be doing a trip in March to Moab and see what I learn out of all this. I do trust his experience in this arena as he said he has done 1800 sets of toy cv's and has only had 16 to break. Now thats a good percentage....
 

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RoverWrench said:
I had sent another set of the early RR'er cv's to Bobby for a spare set to do his treatment too. Bobby called me yesterday and said he really likes the strenght and mat'l in this particular type cv. He said he felt it really doesnt need the ring welded on and decided to treat this set differently. What he did was disassemble the cv's and he cryo'd everything but the balls. He then annealed/stress relieved the bell and re-assembled. I had also sent the drive flange/stem and he feels certain that will now be the fuse in this set-up. I will be doing a trip in March to Moab and see what I learn out of all this. I do trust his experience in this arena as he said he has done 1800 sets of toy cv's and has only had 16 to break. Now thats a good percentage....
John,
One of the local clubs turned me onto cryo'ing the early stuff seems to work REALLY well. I am doing it to mine before my spring outing 5-6 days of expedition style travel from denver to moab's maze area. I am just waiting to get my damn house closed on the 28th.

I know of several people running cryo'd early cv's on rangies with no breakage.

Oh, and can you pm me or give me a ring? I need check on a measurement you might know.

j
 

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JBS,

I think that where you will be disappointed is that the "fuse" will break and depending on the conditions take the CV with it.

While the RR suffix A cvs are quite nice the drive axle thing a ma bobs are little 10 spline guys so that is the limiting factor.

The upside to this is that you will make the drive axle thing the weak link ALL the time, where as before when turned the cv might be more likely to break.

In any case I would make sure to get spare drive axles. The only issue I see with this is they are crazy $$$ new and since they only came in early RRs spares are not exactly plentiful (if you have a spare let me know!)

Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks Ron....I do have a spare set of these thing a ma bob do lillies....and I want them to snap clean first....even to the point of a .030 wide x .030 deep groove in the flange stem to make sure the break is clean and where I want it to be to leave the cv/half shaft healthy. I ve got a lead on a few of these drive flanges used...expense wise even new they are cheaper than cv's or upgraded half shafts( I know people in LR'er circles). And a flange swap is 5 minutes and 5 bolts....(now I like that side). Who knows...we try all kinds of shiatt before we say frigg it and gimme 60's.
 

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If you can score me a spare thing a ma bob for not to much $$ I would be quite pleased.

How much effect do you think the scoring will have? I can't see how a little 10spline guy with a score around it will last. I mean it is REALLY easy to change but at the same time I don't think I would want to swap them out every 10 minutes :)

Is the idea that you are just making it slightly weaker in that one spot so it does not twist at the splines or otherwise damage something else? Then again those RR axles never seem to break.


Ron
 

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10 spline outers

If 10 spline outers are hard to get in the US then ask some of the Aussies on the board to track some down cause they are plentiful over here!
I just picked up a set of perfect 60665 CV's and outers for $400 AUD.

Cheers
Daryl
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I will learn if scouring is needed....proberly not...but I do want it to break at the flange instead of twisting at the spline on the cv.....may be ok as is...I will see what experience teaches me with all this shiatt...e mail me about a spare...I have a used one coming in from Texas.
 

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I tried starting a thread on this, but no response, so i will join in here. Has anyone actually broken a front fuse axel. How, where did it break? Or did the CV or inner axel give out first?

-Jeff
 
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