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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone?

Something that works but thats about it. Used is cool. Only need to use it once.

Ron
 

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evilfij said:
Anyone?

Something that works but thats about it. Used is cool. Only need to use it once.

Ron
$50 for a Reese brake controller at Wal-Mart. What kind of truck do you have? Putting in the controller may be more trouble than it's worth.
 

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so do you not need a brake controller even if the trailer has brakes?? i know that is probably a dumb question but i have never had a trailer with brakes.
 

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on the trailer i tow with the brakes are wired into the brakelight circuit. this trailer has seen thousands upon thousands of miles of use like this, without incident.
 

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Yes, you need a brake controller when the trailer has brakes.... Something has to tell the brakes when to activate, and give them a means to work.

When you step on the brake pedal, the controller receives a signal from the brake light switch. That opens the circuits in the brake controller, and sends 0-10 volts to the magnets in the trailer brakes.
 

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9V said:
on the trailer i tow with the brakes are wired into the brakelight circuit. this trailer has seen thousands upon thousands of miles of use like this, without incident.


Bullshit. Pure, unadulterated, bullshit. If you had the trailer brakes wired into the brakelight circuit, the voltage from the lights would lock up your brakes. If your brakes aren't locking up, it is because your brakes are way out of adjustment, your brakes don't work, or you have other problems.
 

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For one tow! How far? How much does it weigh?

No, you don't need a controler, but you won't have the trailer brakes either. If I was towing locally once, I probally wouldn't worry, if the weights arn't too bad. But Hell, I live in a farming community, so just about anything goes!
 

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FYRMAN said:
Bullshit. Pure, unadulterated, bullshit. If you had the trailer brakes wired into the brakelight circuit, the voltage from the lights would lock up your brakes. If your brakes aren't locking up, it is because your brakes are way out of adjustment, your brakes don't work, or you have other problems.
all i know is that it works, and that it can lock up the brakes on hard enough of a pedal. i havent looked at the wiring of the trailer (its not mine) but maybe there is some kind of proportioning thing in there.

would you like to come tow it?
 

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9V said:


all i know is that it works, and that it can lock up the brakes on hard enough of a pedal. i havent looked at the wiring of the trailer (its not mine) but maybe there is some kind of proportioning thing in there.

would you like to come tow it?
That's the thing about having it wired into your stoplights.... It's either on or off. no inbetween. The brake controller is what gives it the inbetween. All it takes is one litle hair of a wire crossed over to your brakes and they will lock up tighter that an Amish virgin. I don't have to pull your trailer, because I work on the things day in and day out. I fix trailers wired like your all of the time.
 

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LMAO Fyrman!!

Wired into the brakelights.....:slaphead: :doh:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
7500lbs back from canada with a land rover. I was thinking about an "oh sh*t" switch to just lock them up when needed.

I found some on ebay for ~$30, wal-mart near me did not have any.

Ron
 

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evilfij said:
7500lbs back from canada with a land rover. I was thinking about an "oh sh*t" switch to just lock them up when needed.

I found some on ebay for ~$30, wal-mart near me did not have any.

Ron
SPEND the $100 and buy a real friggin brake controller. Ya, you want to save $100 and not do it... but what the hell will it cost you when that damn heavy trailer (7500 load) jack knifes your Land Rover on its side. :(

Sorry Dude, but $100 is CHEAP INSURANCE!

Wiring brake lights into the trailer brakes. Oh that is funny! :eek:

Tom :usa:
 

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FYRMAN said:


That's the thing about having it wired into your stoplights.... It's either on or off. no inbetween. The brake controller is what gives it the inbetween. All it takes is one litle hair of a wire crossed over to your brakes and they will lock up tighter that an Amish virgin. I don't have to pull your trailer, because I work on the things day in and day out. I fix trailers wired like your all of the time.
OK, here's a thought... why COULDN'T a brake controler be indtauled ON THE TRAILER??

Thinking in theory here... the controler only has 4 wires, on out to the breaks, one ground, and one that is 12V power and the other brake lights....


why *couldn't* you "power" the unit with the brake lights (lights com on, 12V to the controler) and at the same time it actuvates the brakes. Release the brakes and the unit powers down, but so what.

Seems like this way you would really only need a 4-pin "standard" connector, the brakes would work for who ever wanted to tow the trailer, the function would/could be the same, but you have just relocated the controler....


Valid?? or am I smoking crack? Would there be anything wrong with powering up and down the controler like that?? or I suposed you *could* run the power off the running lights......


(note: all my controllers are wired "correctly" in the truck, they are supposed to be.... just thinking out loud here)
 

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RustoleumWhite said:


OK, here's a thought... why COULDN'T a brake controler be indtauled ON THE TRAILER??

Thinking in theory here... the controler only has 4 wires, on out to the breaks, one ground, and one that is 12V power and the other brake lights....


why *couldn't* you "power" the unit with the brake lights (lights com on, 12V to the controler) and at the same time it actuvates the brakes. Release the brakes and the unit powers down, but so what.

Because everytime you turned on your blinker to make a turn, your brakes would surge. Not only that, but a controller is kinda sensitive to weather. You don't want water getting into it and shorting it out. What about making adjustments to the controller while driving? And if that trailer starts to sway, or you are on slick roads and the trailer tries to pass you, you can't work the controller manually (activating just the trailer brakes) to straighten everything out again.
 

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The Tekonsha brake controllers I use on all my rigs is a mere $70 and works awesome.

When is yer trip? I just removed another brand controller and it's sitting on the work bench with no future....toss $40 into my paypal and I'll put it a USPS envelope and ship it to ya. I don't recall the brand, but I removed it from my GMC and installed the Tekonsha just 2 weeks ago.

[email protected]8mud.com - email me direct, gone most of the weekend, would mail on Monday.
 

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FYRMAN said:


Because everytime you turned on your blinker to make a turn, your brakes would surge. Not only that, but a controller is kinda sensitive to weather. You don't want water getting into it and shorting it out. What about making adjustments to the controller while driving? And if that trailer starts to sway, or you are on slick roads and the trailer tries to pass you, you can't work the controller manually (activating just the trailer brakes) to straighten everything out again.
good points, hadn't considered the adjusting part.... even though I adjust mine all the time. Weather is easy to fix, and hadn't thought of the blinkers....


works for me, I'm sure you *could* make it work, but not really worth the effort/hassle IMO.

thanks
 

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7500lbs!!!:eek: Brake controler is maniditory. By the way, what is the gross combined weight that the Rover is rated for. Do you have a buddy that will lit you rent/ borrow a bigger truck?



evilfij said:
7500lbs back from canada with a land rover. I was thinking about an "oh sh*t" switch to just lock them up when needed.

I found some on ebay for ~$30, wal-mart near me did not have any.

Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Rover is rated to tow 7700lbs (they say in low range but for rating purposes it does not matter). Not sure what the GCVW is but in the UK you can tow something like 6000kg with one so I am not too concerned! I have done it before.

My rover is set up to tow (tow as well as a rover can anyway :)) HD rear springs, CB front lift, kept the sways, new shocks and its a five speed so I don't lose power like the shushboxes (wife's rover has a shushbox and it sucks towing). Its not CTD but it works for me.

I think I will buy one off ebay. Thanks for the help.

Ron

PS I will be towing a 57 107 SW loaded with crap on a really heavy tandem axle trailer.
 
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