Pirate 4x4 banner

1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
54,554 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
got a chevy 305 in the garage looking for the best shop book for building a motor this will be my first. no major stuff just pulling the pan and heads and retorking all the bolts, fresh coat of paint but i need help with finding the torque specs and what brackets go back where and small stuff like that would also like to learn so maybe next time i'll do a complete rebuild. thanks:D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,687 Posts
Hard call! Seriously, I like the books by John Ligenfelter

Also always enjoyed David Vizard's Mainly from his days of working on the "A" series (MG) motors

As pointed out the only book CLOSE to showing the brackets and belts is a factory manual. There are LOTS of variations on the brackets, fittings, etc... just do NOT force ANY bolt (I have a habit of chasing all the threads, leaving the bracket off, spinning the bolt down into the hole to make sure it doesn't bottom out, THEN fitting the bracket in place).

Worst screw up (OK, I was 16... Too long of a bolt onto a OHC engine fuel pump... bolt went down and hit the timing chain. Just lots of extra metal filings by the time I found out what I did!). Also had a head bolt bottom out... went to torque it, and pulled the threads (bro forgot the headbolt washers... I didn't catch it until later). Ever since I have the habit of hand tightenting all the head bolts WITHOUT washers, make sure they don't bottom, install washer... tighten.

While you have that engine sitting there.... might not be a bad idea to remove the pan, pop off a couple of rod bearings, and inspect the bearings.

BEFORE you remove a main or rod cap... take a close look for some sort of marks. Usually I always mark the rods so I know how the caps go back on... old days I used a center punch and marked "dice" on the same side -- both upper and lower -- so the rod went back to the same location, and same cap in the same location went back on. If the motor has been rebuilt... you should be able to find the marks. These days I have a nice set of letter & number stamps

Nice thing about a 305... a minor rebuild is CHEAP (bearings, rings, gasket set). Oil Pump & timing chain components... just buy good USA made stuff. $200 (?) cheap insurance. :)

Tom :usa:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
557 Posts
roundrocktom said:
Hard call! Seriously, I like the books by John Ligenfelter

Also always enjoyed David Vizard's Mainly from his days of working on the "A" series (MG) motors

As pointed out the only book CLOSE to showing the brackets and belts is a factory manual. There are LOTS of variations on the brackets, fittings, etc... just do NOT force ANY bolt (I have a habit of chasing all the threads, leaving the bracket off, spinning the bolt down into the hole to make sure it doesn't bottom out, THEN fitting the bracket in place).

Worst screw up (OK, I was 16... Too long of a bolt onto a OHC engine fuel pump... bolt went down and hit the timing chain. Just lots of extra metal filings by the time I found out what I did!). Also had a head bolt bottom out... went to torque it, and pulled the threads (bro forgot the headbolt washers... I didn't catch it until later). Ever since I have the habit of hand tightenting all the head bolts WITHOUT washers, make sure they don't bottom, install washer... tighten.

While you have that engine sitting there.... might not be a bad idea to remove the pan, pop off a couple of rod bearings, and inspect the bearings.

BEFORE you remove a main or rod cap... take a close look for some sort of marks. Usually I always mark the rods so I know how the caps go back on... old days I used a center punch and marked "dice" on the same side -- both upper and lower -- so the rod went back to the same location, and same cap in the same location went back on. If the motor has been rebuilt... you should be able to find the marks. These days I have a nice set of letter & number stamps

Nice thing about a 305... a minor rebuild is CHEAP (bearings, rings, gasket set). Oil Pump & timing chain components... just buy good USA made stuff. $200 (?) cheap insurance. :)

Tom :usa:
I agree with him.oh yeah you should buy american!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
54,554 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
thanks for the info for marking stuff i use one of those orange color paint pens and i only pull out one piston at a time rebuild it mark it and go to the next.
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Top