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Discussion Starter #1
My project I am starting on is an 87 samurai with a 92 4.3L vortec, 700R4, Toyota Transfer case, and Toyota front and rear straight axles. I know Lightening conversions has a how to book for doing this with a 200R4 trans and stock running gear. I want this book and / or others like it for a reference more then anything. But Lightening conversions will not sell me the book unless I spend a grundle for one of there kits that won't allow me to build what I want to build. I have a basic idea what I want to do including an adaptor plate from Advanced Adaptors, 1/4 elliptical rear suspensions so I can extend the rear end out the back aways, Coil over link suspension up front, and chopping up whatever needed on the body in order to make it all fit as well as make it all right. I do want to know about what body mods you did as well as other thing. Body lift, cuting on the tunnel, stering box interference and stuf like that is all things i'm looking for info about. The end result I hope to achieve is a street legal version of a competition rock crawler that is stronger, safer, and more powerful then a stock pregnant roller skate. I'm not asking for info turning this into nothing more then a bolt in project. But I want reference info that I can use to help me make me own decisions threw this endeavor. Thanks you for any info any can give to me
Steve Planet Utah :flipoff2:
 

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You probly won't get much help from the guys at lightning, but maby this will help.Last year I put a 4.3 in mine. I had to run a 3 inch body lift so that I cuold get the motor up high enough for every thing underneith to clear.I'm running a th350 so I had to cut out the trans tunnel wider. I don't know what transfercase you plan to run but I started out with the stock sammi and then decided to put in a dana 300. I have it clocked flat across the bottom so no part of the trans or transfercase hang below the frame. The only problems I ran in to was the exhaust. I had to run edelbrock headers to clear the frame . Routing the exhaust isn't easy eather. At full fles my drive shaft still hits alittle. This setup has worked well for me. you can check out my truck in this months fourwheeler. I'm # 46 in the top truck voting.
 

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I ended up making a custom frame for mine (still not finished though) just to get everything to fit the way I wanted it to. Advance adapters also make a good header for old heeps with 4.3Ls in them (narrow between frame rails just like a zuk). Exhaust, cooling and fitment (behind the front clip and tranny tunnel) are the biggest challenges. A little hint for you. If you run a dana 300 t'case and have the stock t'case adapter for the NP 231 you only need to change the front input shaft for the d300 to a 27 spline unit (Novak will sell the shaft seperate) and it bolts up with a flat index (nothing below the frame). you get better "stock" gearing out of the d300 and it is the cheapest combo to adapt together (plus twin sticking it is a breeze). Just a thought.
:D

Oh, and the energy susp motor mounts out of a older camero (like 70's) are really low profile and give you lots of options in the motor mount dept and "fit" in the sami frame.
 

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Careful about your tranny choice. If you run a 700r the valve body
is offset to the right/pass side. sometimes your driveshaft will hit the pan, depending on the t-case and where your diff is.
 

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700R4 with Vortec in sammy

the valve body on the 700R4 does stick out the passenger side so some pretty major tunnel modifing is necessary. see what i said about the "black ABS" trick in that other thread noted, very easy.

back to the trans; i cut the whole passenger side corner off of the pan. about 1" vertically and horizontally and welded a piece in so the pan now has a 45 degree on that side. no more drive line hitting and i cun push a tire all the way up to my fender rails. also, my axle is 12" forward helps.

if you are thinking toy truck axles you should use the toy tcase. very strong & light, cheap gears, very common.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well today was a day of more cuting and trail fit of the engine and trans. Tanx much of the info so far. I am going to look at the transfer case options befor I make a set choise. Where I stand now is with the engine and trans fiting nicely with a bit of cuting to the tunnel and bending over the fire wall tunnel seam. I am to the point off exaust and moter mounts I'm guessing the stock moter mounts won't be an option being that they are big and bulky. I'm guessing they will be in the raod of what ever headers I get. So todays questions are What Headers, where , how much, and what mods needed on them. What mounts and what needs to be fabed for them. what shorter water pump and pulley can run with the stock vortec surpentine offset. other wise Thinking of trying water pump, pulleys and all the bracket off my boat that has a 350 just make sure and then try to duplicat them. Thanx for all the input so far Steve
 

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little more 4.3 info

remember all SB Chevy bracketry/pulleys/water-pumps fit the 4.3. i didn't have room to run the stock serpentine systems, so i went to a standard aluminum long water pump, power steering pump, & alternator system.

if you run the Sanderson headers i told you about you will have to locate the mounts forward of the bolt holes in the block. hard to explain but may be able to email a picture to you direct. besides any "stock" type motor mount is not sufficient for hardcore wheelin' anyhow. you need something with a bolt going all the way through, but still rubber/urethane mounted.
 

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im running factory style hedders off a 86 monte carlo with a 4.3. im running a 4.3,th350,yota tcase. still having probs in finding a radiator that will fit.
 

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radiator/fan

all zuk engine swaps are a little different, but...

several companines make an aluminum 2 core (equal to brass/copper 4 core) in a 23" wide X 19" tall (zuk frames are 23-1/2" wide). i got mine from Summit and it is a Howe.

i only run an electric fan and it is the highest flow i could find and i run 190-200 in all conditions. it is a 16" Spal fan and fits the above radiators perfect. i think it is the fan that "be cool" sells in the "radiator/fan" combos. it's made in Europe and their CFM rattings are at 12V not 14.4V like many others. a little pricey but kicks ass over any other electric fan i have used. you can buy just the fan through Fluidyne.com part#FRP34116 (PULLER), and part#FRP34216 (PUSHER). CFM rating = 2197. the only bad part is they are a bit noisy, a higher pitch sound than others because of the long narrow blades.
 

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Quick question about the 4.3 set-up. Do you have to move the transfer case back and how much? If so how do you get away from the angle of the rear drive shaft? Looking at this set up but trying to get all the info before I start cutting.....

Edit:
So the stock case is weak. What is the best case to use? Toyota or other ones?


92 Zukimoo, 87 tin top, 88 soft top
 

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zukimoo said:
Quick question about the 4.3 set-up. Do you have to move the transfer case back and how much? If so how do you get away from the angle of the rear drive shaft? Looking at this set up but trying to get all the info before I start cutting.....
Uhh, you don't use the stock transfer case - it is too small/weak for this engine (unless it is a mall cruiser).

[email protected]
 

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ya,,the stock tcase is weak under 4.3 power. the first time i floored it i pulled the front tires off the ground and heard a loud smashing sound. the sound was the stock tcase busting in half. i had a 208 in there for awhile,but now i run a yota tcase. i hope this yota case will hold up cause now i have fullsize axles and lockers front and rear:confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I'v had sugested Headers by Edlebrock that were hard to fit, Sanderson Headers that need a lil work but not too much and somone said that advanced adaptors make a header for this but couldn't find them. In fact I found where it said they don't make 4.3L header at this time. Is this true today, or are they making them? Are there any other coises I need to look at? So far I'm looking to probably order the Sanderson headers at a $250 chunk in the next day or to. I'm stuck till I get them so I can build my mounts around them. Tanx Steve
 

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headers

Cmbrsum,

I did see a Zuk/Buggy with a 4.3 in it that used the Advance Adapter ones. they make a couple ones, but the ones he used were for the 4.3 in the toyota truck. He also had to head and bend them in as well. they are your more traditional style, going down and back with the collector near the bell housing area. he took the passenger side and crossed it over behind the torque converter.

another thing, if you have figured it out yet is; you will have to cut the tabs off of the transmission. i mean way off, basically run a saws-all right down the back of the block and taper in inward as you cut.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Been waiting for some fabbed parts that finally got done. Chopped out a lot of metal in the mean time. that zuc is getting lighter all the time. Motor mounts are now in and should have the cross member in by tomorow. I'v also been werking on an AutoCad drwing of the zuk frame and body. Anybody that wants a copy of that can go to thread "ACAD Drawing". I update it every couple of days when i get some more werk done to it. Still looking for a doner Toyota. Guna be time to start wiring also.
 

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The AA Headers for the toy truck or into a old Jeep (CJ2 or 3 are best) will work out pretty good. I've found that the stock exhaust manifolds for a newer blazer (if you have a vortec) will work with a little custom bending in the exhaust system (I'm too broke to buy headers right now! :rolleyes: ).

Bdacus, the way I "solved" the valve body/driveline clearance problem is a little unique. I added a little length to the front of my d300 in the form of a "Klone-V" that my friend and I machined up :flipoff2:. From there I am going to run a short jack staft to a toyota front drive shaft bearing support moved over to clear the pan and then down to the front diff. The front driveshaft is as long as it would be without the Klone and mounted directly to the d300. :D
I figured a little extra gearing didn't hurt as long as it cured my front driveline problem :flipoff2: .
 

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careful of gearing

be carefull with "too much" gearing. i'm running 4:1 tcase, 4.88 t/p gears and the 700R4 at 3:1 first gear and i'm having problems holding it back when going down really steep stuff. brakes are now the big thing.

the extra bearing block and driveline is what Shaeffer did with his original dual case samurai to get around the output shaft of the first t-case. worked pretty well i guess.

elaborate on the "klone-V" please?
 

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elaborate on the "klone-V" please?
Click here for the "real" version. The Klone is a version we made up. My gearing is 3:1 first * Klone (2.72)* d300 2.62 * r+p 4.30 = 92:1 without the convertor figured in. Brakes shouldn't be a problem as I have d44s with vented discs all the way around and a big master/booster combo. The bearing support should work out just fine, however I haven't tested it yet...

BTW, how's your highway RPM's?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Hey Bryan You not still running a stock Zuc master cyl R U Way too small and Phukd up of a set up
 
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