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4.11 on a 33, or 4.56 on a 35 will get you at a great cruising power. I ran that setup in my ranger with an exhausted 4L and I would only have to drop to 3rd on jinormous hills.

Great to see you're making it a driver.

I support the caddi calipers. I have them on the back of my explorer. only problem I ever had with them was the little rubber/plastic insert in the middle of the piston leaked. swapped it out with the lifetime warranty and all good.

Wild Horse progressive springs are what I have on my explorer as well. They ride awesome. seriously. Mine are the 5.5" lift springs, so a little taller than you are wanting, but man, they ride awesome.

Cutting down the HP44 would be the way to go, but finding one with weld on wedges for a price that is fair is tough. If you have the ability to get the whole axle from posford, shipping would likely be worth it.

excited to see how this pans out. And of course, Gotta have that yellow hood :)
 

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I have cheap freight. Strap to a pallet, gimmie zip and residential/commerical, and if lift gate needed.

OR, if you can drop at local hub for me
Its in pieces and has drums, possibly missing shit, I'll verify it is a 44, never even looked at it too hard. Came with some other shit.

Narrowing a 44 it tit though, did it for my Ranger. Not even a weld on wedge axle, grind the weld at the cast wedge, pull it apart with a tractor, cut tube, hammer it on, check with tape measure, burn it in. 2 hours tops.
 

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Narrowing a 44 it tit though, did it for my Ranger. Not even a weld on wedge axle, grind the weld at the cast wedge, pull it apart with a tractor, cut tube, hammer it on, check with tape measure, burn it in. 2 hours tops.
I was referring to lining the pumpkin up correctly on the driver side. I thought the location of the pumpkin on the driver side of the f150/bronco axle is further from the inner C than the weld on wedge axle or the EB 44?
 

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I was referring to lining the pumpkin up correctly on the driver side. I thought the location of the pumpkin on the driver side of the f150/bronco axle is further from the inner C than the weld on wedge axle or the EB 44?
Good thinking. I'll have to throw a tape measure on both
 

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A 33" tire on a dana 30 wouldn't scare me too much if it was pretty much a street cruiser. The GM brake conversion will work on a 30 or a drum brake bronco 44, you could do it now on the 30 and look for a 44 later.

5 speed sounds good

4 turn box is good, avoid the 6 turn although they can be rebuilt into a 4 or 3 turn box, the Delphi box that bronco graveyard and I'm sure others sell might be a good choice, it is almost stock in appearance but is all new parts instead of old worn out bits.

Stock style booster would be fine with 33-35" tires, beyond that I would go with the hydro boost.


I've go deavers in the front of mine, I think they are a straight rate rather then progressive, they are soft, I've got a bilstein 255/70 shock and it's undervalved, I would like to try a 360/80 or a pair of 170/60.

A set of the 10-11 leaf rear springs and a properly valved shock will help the rear out a bunch as well.

One of the "bolt on in place of a carb and peel out" EFI setups might hide under the aircleaner well enough and would make it drive real nice if it's going to really see a good amount of use.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
A 33" tire on a dana 30 wouldn't scare me too much if it was pretty much a street cruiser. The GM brake conversion will work on a 30 or a drum brake bronco 44, you could do it now on the 30 and look for a 44 later.

5 speed sounds good

4 turn box is good, avoid the 6 turn although they can be rebuilt into a 4 or 3 turn box, the Delphi box that bronco graveyard and I'm sure others sell might be a good choice, it is almost stock in appearance but is all new parts instead of old worn out bits.

Stock style booster would be fine with 33-35" tires, beyond that I would go with the hydro boost.


I've go deavers in the front of mine, I think they are a straight rate rather then progressive, they are soft, I've got a bilstein 255/70 shock and it's undervalved, I would like to try a 360/80 or a pair of 170/60.

A set of the 10-11 leaf rear springs and a properly valved shock will help the rear out a bunch as well.

One of the "bolt on in place of a carb and peel out" EFI setups might hide under the aircleaner well enough and would make it drive real nice if it's going to really see a good amount of use.

I'm just looking at not investing money into the 30. If I'm going to go through it and replace the bearings/rebuild it- might as well be a 44.

Iv'e read a F250 turned 90* HB is supposed to be the bee's knees?


I had a set of wildhorses springs on my f1fitty, and while it was too heavy for my truck, i think will work nice with this. I need to find a set of shocks that will compliment them in dual form, as well.

I have a 650 double pumper that when the engine is tuned on the dyno will be gone through by Davince carbs. Don't worry, she'll run like fuel injection, i promise :)
 

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Discussion Starter #48
so- more talk. Fuel injection.


Thottle body injection on the dual plane intake?
MPFI on an aftermarket intake manifold?

OR

LSx swap?

OR

something Ford like a coyote engine?

We're just examining our options here. I live at 40 feet in Houston.
Pops lives at 1500, and a quick jaunt to Tahoe would be at 5-6K feet.
A run to Sacramento and he's back at my level.


Coyote would be RAAAAAAAD.
Need to find a trans and related crap to make the Tcase still work.

Now we're looking at Resto-mod style.
Lemme know your thoughts :D
 

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BC Broncos has all the stuff for Coyote swaps

I think one of the throttle body EFIs like FiTech, MSD, Holly etc sell would be the simplest solution.

My bronco has a 92ish 5.0 mustang motor with the factory EFI, it was about the only choice when I did it over 20 years ago, not a bad choice but it doesn't have the adjustability of the newer systems.
 

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Rolling Mod
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For ease, I'd do a self learning throttle body kit. Will look OG and deliver good performance.

A coyote would be rad, but iirc it's a tight fit, and personally I wouldn't hack up pops EB.

A ls would be awesome, but not for a cool EB.
 

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so- more talk. Fuel injection.


Thottle body injection on the dual plane intake?
MPFI on an aftermarket intake manifold?

OR

LSx swap?

OR

something Ford like a coyote engine?

We're just examining our options here. I live at 40 feet in Houston.
Pops lives at 1500, and a quick jaunt to Tahoe would be at 5-6K feet.
A run to Sacramento and he's back at my level.


Coyote would be RAAAAAAAD.
Need to find a trans and related crap to make the Tcase still work.

Now we're looking at Resto-mod style.
Lemme know your thoughts :D
I like the idea of modern(ish) EFI on an old school SBF. Put a 302 or 351 in it with mustang MAF or aftermarket system of your choice. Thats retro mod enough in my opinion.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
if we go this route, I don't think the NV3550 will survive well.

If we keep the stock 302- Fitech seems to be the no brainer.

'Yote is just too damn expensive. 10K+


LS1=NV4500=Dana 20 seems like the way to keep it bulletproof- but the '4500 shifts more like a truck.
 

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LS1=NV4500=Dana 20 seems like the way to keep it bulletproof- but the '4500 shifts more like a truck.

How would that be anymore reliable than 351w/ZF5/Dana 20? Fitech or mustang MAF and you're good.

Look into buying a wrecked F150 for the drive train. Guy on FTE does it with ecoboost trucks. Gets the whole truck for around $3500-4000.
 

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The best way to ruin this cool old Ford, with heritage and history, would be an LS. Honestly I don't even love the Coyote motor - too modern, it just doesn't seem to fit the vibe of the truck.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Ok narrowing down some stuff- help me out here


Fuel injection- FITECH EFI system with their surge tank set up

headers- Headman from bronco graveyard

Steering- bronco graveyard complete power steering conversion 3.1 turn box

Brakes- Wildhorses hydroboost conversion w/ stainless lines

Rear brakes- wildhorses rear disc brake conversion w/ axles.

Front brakes- will rebuild (disc) when I find a Dana44 front.

Body mounts- wildhorses 1" poly body lift

front springs- wildhorses front 2.5" springs

Rear springs- Deavers? Unsure

Shocks- Will measure when everything is done/installed. Need some semi- soft valved shocks to compensate as dual shocks.

Seats- Looks like Corbeau has a full seat set w/ brackets- but a set of harnesses (unless I get an uncomfortable Y shoulder strap set) doesn't have dual shoulder harness holes in the seat back.
Suggestions?

Harnesses- See above issue- would prefer 4/5 points, so the option to just run a lap belt is available

Door panels- Plain wildhorse flat panels

Stereo Retrosound factory replacement set up w/ speaker.

I need to find the material to put on the back of the dash for the speaker grill still

Going to bedline the tub fully.

Cage- I found this old skool style cage

https://www.tomsbroncoparts.com/product/interior-bar-standard-6-point-2-tubing-120-wall-66-77-early-ford-bronco-new

I like it, because it is 2"- I don't have the material or die to run this in my bender.

Transmission- I need a full NV3550 conversion. Few places I can see sell it. Preferred vendors?

Need to buy a flywheel and balancer asap so I can balance the engine.


Trying to get down to business here, but need to pull the trigger appropriately. I think I'm going to put the drivetrain in and get it running, then pull it apart, send the body out for paint, and to the drivetrain while the body is off the frame. Seems the most logical w/o damaging paint trying to work around it.
 

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The best way to ruin this cool old Ford, with heritage and history, would be an LS.
This. Everyone has gotten so caught up with "LS swap it" they have forgotten that it isn't hard or expensive to make reliable power with a SBF.
 

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Random thoughts
I've heard of a few complaints of fuel pump noise with some of the FiTech type systems, a new oversize rear tank with a intank pump might be a good idea, great idea if it will need a new tank anyways.

I don't know what you are starting with for a motor but the explorer 5.0 motors with the GT-40 heads seem like a good base, roller cam and decent heads plus the shortest front accessory drive with a serpentine belt. The GT-40P heads have spark plug clearance issues depending on what headers are used.

The 76-77 front disc axles are limited on what wheels can be run on them due to the steering arms, the drum brake 44s have more room and can be converted, I don't know what wheels you want or have but keep it in mind.
 

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so, we just finished installing a fitech system on my neighbor's elcamino. If you are running the frame rail pump, it is frickin loud. it also starves everytime he'd take it around a curve when the fuel was lower than a half tank. After he talked to fitech on the phone, they recommended an intank pump setup, and recommended going with Tanks Inc. replacement tank for FI. He did and the car is night and day. If you're going to run a Fitech system on this truck, I HIGHLY recommend getting a tank and pump designed for FI, especially if you ever plan on taking this off-road.

Also, don't be disappointed when you open the retro-sound box and find cheap tawian/china made stuff. Their customer service is great though, was just a little disappointed that something so cheap feeling is so expensive. I used their factory look MP3 player with bluetooth and USB in the Elcamino along with their kick panel speakers and dash speaker. The sound is fairly decent, but I also added a pair of 6x9s in the back of the cab and that really completed the sound.

lastly, on your plan for when to pull the body, I may have misunderstood, but definitely do all your swapping and fabricating mock-up before sending the body out. Once you get everything cut up and patched, then send the body out and fully weld everything. Pretty up the frame and drivetrain, then put the pretty body on the pretty chassis. this will hopefully eliminate having to cut on or around a fresh paint job.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
Random thoughts
I've heard of a few complaints of fuel pump noise with some of the FiTech type systems, a new oversize rear tank with a intank pump might be a good idea, great idea if it will need a new tank anyways.

I don't know what you are starting with for a motor but the explorer 5.0 motors with the GT-40 heads seem like a good base, roller cam and decent heads plus the shortest front accessory drive with a serpentine belt. The GT-40P heads have spark plug clearance issues depending on what headers are used.

The 76-77 front disc axles are limited on what wheels can be run on them due to the steering arms, the drum brake 44s have more room and can be converted, I don't know what wheels you want or have but keep it in mind.

I wanna run the original mag 15" wheels it has now on it.
Motor is a 302 w/351W heads on it.
Tanks are fresh and clean. May do that to save the hassle, instead of trying to feed a surge tank from two source tanks and how the return would work.

so, we just finished installing a fitech system on my neighbor's elcamino. If you are running the frame rail pump, it is frickin loud. it also starves everytime he'd take it around a curve when the fuel was lower than a half tank. After he talked to fitech on the phone, they recommended an intank pump setup, and recommended going with Tanks Inc. replacement tank for FI. He did and the car is night and day. If you're going to run a Fitech system on this truck, I HIGHLY recommend getting a tank and pump designed for FI, especially if you ever plan on taking this off-road.

Also, don't be disappointed when you open the retro-sound box and find cheap tawian/china made stuff. Their customer service is great though, was just a little disappointed that something so cheap feeling is so expensive. I used their factory look MP3 player with bluetooth and USB in the Elcamino along with their kick panel speakers and dash speaker. The sound is fairly decent, but I also added a pair of 6x9s in the back of the cab and that really completed the sound.

lastly, on your plan for when to pull the body, I may have misunderstood, but definitely do all your swapping and fabricating mock-up before sending the body out. Once you get everything cut up and patched, then send the body out and fully weld everything. Pretty up the frame and drivetrain, then put the pretty body on the pretty chassis. this will hopefully eliminate having to cut on or around a fresh paint job.

Thanks for the tips there.



Trying to figure out the clutch situation on the NV3550. Would prefer to have a hydro clutch. Would prefer to have an internal slave. Cant really find anyone who's done it, except for some random external set ups.
Anyone?
Looks like a lot of stuff is going to be coming from Tom's Bronco parts instead of Jeff's bronco Graveyard.... although JBG looks to be the place for Hydo brake assist set up.
Ordering more parts.
 
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