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Discussion Starter #1
I'm going to be rewiring my truck over time, but first thing is to rewire my headlights (relays are on the way).
I don't have a wiring question, but rather a question about light longevity.

I am using sealed 55/65 watt lamps and am considering wiring the 65w filament as the low beam and running the 55/65 together as the high beam. First, will the 65w filament stand up to extended run periods that the 55w filament is designed for? Second, will running the 55/65 together be a recipe for early bulb replacement (too much heat, failure, etc).

Tons of sites on the net detailing this rediculously simple modification, but nobody mentions how quick their bulbs burn out :confused: Should I give it a shot or just find a higher-rated offroad style bulb?

Thanks!
 

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I use Cibie H4 lights. That way you can run whatever bulb you want.

Hella makes them too.

For all the trouble your going to go with to re-wire the lights, why not just buy a set of those, and be done?

j
 

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Discussion Starter #3
redrangie said:

For all the trouble your going to go with to re-wire the lights, why not just buy a set of those, and be done?

j
The lights are being rewired regardless. Wiring them as I mentioned requires no more time or extra number of circuits than rewiring them the traditional way.
 

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When I did this I used 10 gage wire (way overkill) and Cole Hersee copper connectors that will let you solder or crimp 10-12 gage wire. I got the idea from the D90 list.

I think that there will not be an appreciable difference in failure rates between 55 and 65 watt bulbs, but running both is going to burn the light out quick and may even cause problems with the housing. Why not buy an aux light?
 

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The problem with running the High beam filament is the pattern is wrong. The position of the filament inside the Bulb sets up the light pattern. You would be fawked in fog or a snow storm because your light pattern would be all wrong and way too high.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks guys! This is the info I'm looking for (and of course, omitted from other sites I've seen).

It looks like I'll just rewire it the standard way and find higher rated bulbs or the H4 conversion (I used those on my '66 Beetle before I sold it...).
 

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DieLucas!, if you want to splurge, consider the IPF H4 headlights, they're superb, the pattern of light dispersement is awesome, well worth the price of admission. You can then run any H4 bulb you want (assuming the wiring will handle them).
 

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If he runs any hotter bulbs he'll want to consider buying my IPF headlight loom.

MUCH easier than making your own loom.

Plus, mine is NEW IN BOX and comes with instructions! :flipoff2:

Been on ebay setting up some auctions....so don't mind me....I'm in the *MOOD*.

:flipoff2:

Seriously though, I think the headlight switch in my RRC is going south on the one truck because I'm running hotter bulbs through the factory switch. It's starting to act up. The other trucks that have the IPF loom...no problem.

The truck w/out the loom will be getting one soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Pimp your sh*t somewhere else (J/K)...how much of your income has come outta my pocket the last few months (N/K)? :flipoff2:

Actually, I just bought 16 SPDT relays for the truck rewire (told you I'm doing it myself...). Let's just say whatever I decide to run as head-lights will have sufficient wiring (Mikie...remember all those insulated battery straps you gave me :D). BTW, did you get those fluorscent lamps in the 130 from the Lighthouse? I want to get a pair of those...


60Series...thanks for the advice. I'll take a look at the IPF assemblies. When I replaced the assemblies on my Beetle, I used some cheap Taiwanese Cibie-knockoffs that had terrible dispersion. I know there is similar stuff for the freight/semi market, but I don't know if the housing size is similar.
 

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I like the IPF housing, but I think the IPF bulbs suck, especially the ones with the silly glow feature. They are coated bulbs and in spite of the hype, the coating can only detract from the light production. I replaced the IPF bulbs with some German made H4s and got much better results. The German bulbs were $11.00 apiece:D :D :D
 

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Old Scout said:
The problem with running the High beam filament is the pattern is wrong. The position of the filament inside the Bulb sets up the light pattern. You would be fawked in fog or a snow storm because your light pattern would be all wrong and way too high.
OS got it right. It's not the wiring / power / heat problems, it's the fact your "dims" will be shining too high for oncoming traffic / fog etc.

Do not pass go. do not collect $200.
 

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65W bulbs

In a way I don't really see why the 65W bulbs would burn out sooner. Yeah they would get hotter but it's only 10 watts more.

55/12 = 4.5A 65/12 = 5.4A

so theres less than one amp difference. Maybe if the connections at the socket/bulb were corroded and was causing some resistance making more heat at the bulb, i could see that as a problem. Maybe it's the quality of the bulb, I've never been big sylvania.
 

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In a way I don't really see why the 65W bulbs would burn out sooner. Yeah they would get hotter but it's only 10 watts more.

55/12 = 4.5A 65/12 = 5.4A
If he runs both together, then his wiring harness is drawing 9.9 amps instead of 5.4 amps on high beam.

55 watts is a fair amount of energy too. It will burn the crap out of your hand if you grab a 55 watt lightbulb.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I think the reply was based on running the 65w filament as the primary low-beam.

Regardless, as others have mentioned, I think the pattern of light dispersion is at issue. I'll just build the loom big enough to support higher rated bulbs.
 
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