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Discussion Starter #42
Alrighty then, where was I?

Drivelines, I'm pretty cheap so when It came to these I didn't really want to pay to have them made, I had a stack of Cj2a-cj5 drivelines, from various things. So That takes care of the transfer-case end, now the m37 ends are a bit Odd as the pinions are flanges, and the ujoints are like some crazy small cross 1350 joint, so I'm kinda stuck with using the factory m37 slips and flanges.



Well here's part of the stack, the monster in the middle is the m37 one, the splines are almost 1.5" should be plenty for my little rig.



After cutting the splines out of the tube and boring a chunk of 2.25/.25 wall DOM it was ready to be put together. My stepdad was giving me a hand that day and built the rear shaft of me. Fit was a bit tight but nothing a dead blow couldn't fix.


Here it is all together, Used the more beefy front yoke off of what I thing was a cj5 or 7, the only weak link now should be the u-joints.

Of course I don't have pictures of it but I built the front shaft sorta similar but to clear the starter I took the same small tube front driveline and turned the splines down on the m37 slip to slide into the 1 1/4 worked out pretty sharp, and hopefully should hold up.

Well getting caught back up..... I'll post some more later tonight gonna go out and work on it now.... Running Fordyce and Rubicon In a week so gonna be a busy next few days....
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Okay dokie, Its lunch time, so a few more updates....

The 3/4 of an inch of clearance between the fender and tire, wasn't cutting it.
so it needed a bit of a lift. The way Mieser did his was pretty trick, but I didn't want to have to stretch the hood, and I had already mounted the grill to the new frame section. sooo.... here comes the cutting.



Here's where it sat with stock height fenders looks kinda cool, but yup not gonna work out to hot, with me driving it rubs on the drivers side.



This is the passenger fender raised about 2 1/2 inches if you look you can see the top sharpie line, that is 3 1/4 inches over stock. Which is about right, except now the fender is 1 1/2 inches too long.



My first marks almost screwed me, These were right where the factory fender supports are, thank goodness for double checking.

Other than that I had to build a 3 1/4 piece to fill the gap in under the fender, re-drill the holes to mount it. And build some simple inner fender pieces so the headlights could stay. Of course I didn't get any pictures of these....
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Ok so more or less finally caught up, at least should be by the end of this post

I've had the mb out once already to the dunes with the new axles, where after messing with the carb and finally getting it to run right I promptly get pulled over, and lectured by the cop on how I don't have a cage. He didn't like my reasoning that it was a 75 year old jeep and at best prolly did 25mph in the soft stuff. None the less I managed to get away with just a warning. From that incident and having several people I know harassing me about not having one figured I probably should work on that. But man it looked cool before, oh well.

Well my plans were to have it as low pro as possible, I can't stand the tall back section that most flat fenders had, but I'm right around 6'4 so this was a hard one, especially in an mb with a WWII windshield frame.



So out came the cutoff wheel....
Actually worked out pretty great having the rear end back ~3" and with it being so wide, I had plenty of room to cut without having to worry about tire/tub clearance



jumping to the passenger side, sorry for not being consistent. the kick up for the center cross member kinda screwed my nice easy floor patch, so I had to put the half-moon cutout in it to get the most room possible. The drivers side I left the cutout attached and just bent it forward a little bit.



getting it tacked in, you can see my precision body tool at the bottom, works good for "slight" adjustments. I am definitely not a sheet metal guy.


shot of the drivers side, this peice was allot cleaner in the end, but of course this is where I stopped taking pictures again..... basically just followed the brake across to the outside of the opening nothing too special.

so that gives me room for my seats, now I can start laying out tube work.
Every thing that I am building will be out of 1 3/4 .120 wall DOM. probably should've used .095 for some of it but it was quite a bit more expensive. anyways here we go!



Setting the A-pillar in, Keep in mind this is my first cage, so bear with me on the spud'd together main bars.... Where this sits is about 1/2 inch lower than the top of the windshield frame and rakes up maybe a degree or two towards the rear.



The nice things about sleaving the tube is being able to figure out you angles without wasting 7" of tube!. As for my a-pillar angles the dash was 19 lay back for the windshield and 71 for the roof bar. with a 4 degree twist between the two. the rear section I think ended up at 46-48 Those bars were in and out of the bender a few times to get them right.



I think it's looking pretty sharp, I will tie the seats into the cage and eventually the cage into the frame, which kinda doesn't matter since the previous owner welded the tub to the frame when he redid the floor... A long long time ago....



seats mocked up in the cage.



Besides getting the the two main bars symmetrical these two bars in the back, were a real pain in the butt.



Didn't turn out half bad though. you can see I've already got the seat bars in, sorry no pictures, was in a bit of a hurry but not to much special there. except the front bar is back as far as I could get it to clear the eventual O.D unit.

Continued.... out of picture space I guess ?!?!
 

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Discussion Starter #45
And the rest...



photo from the loft, with the roof bars in actually besides seat tabs which I did this morning this is where is sits.



I think I'm getting excited to hit up Rubicon and Fordyce!


pretty tired tonight but I also have pictures of the slider/rocker panel guards that I built tonight, they look pretty cool, super simple. I'll try and get them up tomorrow. Well Thanks for reading!
 

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This little rig looks :smokin: man. Looking forward to updates. :grinpimp:
 

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Now this is awesome!

Cage looks sweet. For some reason I think my cage looks goofy tall. Could you grab me a measurement from somewhere on the tub to the top of the cage? Just so I can decide if it really is goofy tall or just my eyes.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Now this is awesome!

Cage looks sweet. For some reason I think my cage looks goofy tall. Could you grab me a measurement from somewhere on the tub to the top of the cage? Just so I can decide if it really is goofy tall or just my eyes.
Thanks man! from the top of the tub, to the top of the cage its 24"

I'm 6'4 and I can still get my fist between my head and the bottom of the cage, so not to tight, helps that the seats are through the floor. anybody under 6" seems to have a fun time seeing over the windshield though, hehe


Well here she is before the trip to fordyce, didn't get to beat up. Has old man emu 2.5" yj springs and 12" fox's now rides way better! made it down to winch hill 3 (from the top) and back and then to winch hill 4 the next day and the front end came up hard enough to bend the fan which took a swipe out of the rad.... o'well, worked awesome till then.

things yet on the list,
Radiator
complete rewire
battery box (relocation?)
custom bellhousing (need better drive line to starter clearance)
possibly a Buick 215 or rover 4.0, 4.7
t18 (already have it) Terralow?
overdive
and an ARB for the front.

so stay tuned for more, stuff shouldn't be a rushed now.... I hope.
thanks for all the support!
 

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I've missed your last few updates, but this has turned out very cool! I look forward to seeing it on the trail. Make sure with the low head clearance, that you have a tight seatbelt. In my old blazer, it only took once of ringing my bell pretty hard, to decide to tighten my belt.
 

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5 points pretty much stop all movement. Then again, were not always strapped in when we should be haha.

I was pretty worried about possibly bashing my head on the B post. Strapped it its just not possible.
 

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bummer about the radiator getting taken out
 

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How much of a gap do you have between the top of the axle and the frame? With the 2.5 YJ springs. Also how long did your shackles end up being?

Jeep looks great, and I'm loving the low and wide.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
I'd say that there is prolly 6+ inches in the back until the frame hits the axle, and maybe 5-6 in the front. the only thing that hampers my up travel, is the starter to drive shaft clearance, my shackles ended up being 6" long hole to hole. I have it set up with 4" of travel in the front and 5" in the back my overall height is under 67"

Alright here's the sliders, the whole deal with these is I wanted to keep the profile of the factory step or whatever that thing is at the bottom of the fender, and I wanted them simple. Most of all not to hang down or out too far.

Well I started out with 1 1/2 angle.



Marked and then pie cut just one time for the taper in the tub.
For the steps, a lot more cuts to get the radius right, this took a bit of guess and check (maybe a bit of filling with the 210 metal maker too!)


Looks pretty good I think, clean and simple.


Pulled off to final weld and clean up.


As is typical with me that's all the pictures I have. but there's not much else to them, just a few 3/8's holes to mount them, and a cap for the top where the step tapers into the fender. I guess its not really a true slider, but for how light the rig is and the amount of surface area on the body hopefully I should have a really hard time screwing them up.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
Well, fixed up allot of the issues, new battery box. A new radiator and electric fan, well new to me I guess, Couple of wrecking yard specials. Radiator is out of a volvo 245 pretty big and fits perfectly behind the grill, but no radiator cap. so I found some vintage oddball copper overflow reservoir. Did the later model volvo 2 speed fan. Works pretty slick if you grab the factory 2 speed relay.


Don't think it came out too bad.


most of the new battery box, no more loose battery!

Had it down at the dunes last month, Not the fastest or smoothest thing in the group but man is it fun to drive, and pretty much crawls up anything.


After that its been sitting in the barn for the a month, finally the weather broke and pulled it out today(or yesterday, guess its late?) Anyways put a little charge in the battery and it fired right up, with a puff of blue smoke to let you know its getting oil. Drove it into town to trade off the stock yj springs.

Did manage to come back with some new vintage goodies though,


Needs a bit of work, but it seems like a good replacement for a nice 8274... My stepdad wants his winch back, haha



Chilling out with 48'

Anyways not really much else going on, Going to try and get my t18 in before april, and hopefully I can source an ARB for the front of this thing, but I guess we'll see how it goes.
 

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Looks good. I'll be watching to see what you do with the Belleview. I just got one too and don't know too much about it. Are you planning a two speed motor upgrade or original cable controls?
 

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Discussion Starter #60
Looks good. I'll be watching to see what you do with the Belleview. I just got one too and don't know too much about it. Are you planning a two speed motor upgrade or original cable controls?
Thanks! I think i'm going to try and and leave it cable, fits with the whole old school theme, Only problem is is its missing the power in switch on the solenoid so I'm going to have to figure that out.
 
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