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SWAPPED IN A 5.3LS, 4L60E, NEW NOVAK RADIATOR, NEW GM THERMOSTAT, ONLY GETS HOT GOING UP A GRADE, RUNS FINE ON TRAILS, IDILING, AND CITY DRIVING. ANYONE HAVE A THOUGHT?
 

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Got any pics of the radiator and fan set up?
And why are you yelling?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Got any pics of the radiator and fan set up?
And why are you yelling?
SORRY, NOT YELLING, I HAVE TO TYPE THIS WAY FOR WORK, ITS EASIER TO READ FOR THE OLD SECRETARY, JUST HABIT, NO PICTURES, BUT ITS THE NOVAK RADIATOR/SHROUD,FAN THAT THEY SAID WAS THE BEST FOR LS SWAPS.
 

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Shroud and fan spacing make more difference at low speed.

High speed, check for blocked air flow, maybe the winch I you have one? Usually, high vehicle speed will put enough air across the radiator that you could almost run without a fan. Sometimes adding a spoiler a few inches below the radiator will cause it to flow more air across the core from the vacuum effect. Also, most OEM radiators have some sort of filler panels to make sure all the air going into the grill goes through the radiator core.

Another thing is just not enough capacity in the radiator to handle the heat load (Doubtful)

If the engine was old/used, might have been sludge in the block, which can plug or partially plug a radiator in minutes.
 

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Is the waterpump new or what came with the engine?

is the thermostat new or what came with the engine?

can you physically confirm the fans are coming on. You physically pulled over and saw the E-fan/s come on and stay on?

is the radiator big enough to cool the engine. If you are in a Jeep swap the radiator may be too small to cool efficiently and you’re putting a load on the vehicle going uphill.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Is the waterpump new or what came with the engine?

is the thermostat new or what came with the engine?

can you physically confirm the fans are coming on. You physically pulled over and saw the E-fan/s come on and stay on?

is the radiator big enough to cool the engine. If you are in a Jeep swap the radiator may be too small to cool efficiently and you’re putting a load on the vehicle going uphill.
[/QUOTE
NEW WATERPUMP, NEW THERMOSTAT, FAN COMES ON AT 192 AND YOU CAN HEAR IT RUNNING, THE RADIATOR IS WHAT NOVAK ADVISED THAT WORKS BEST WITH THE LS SWAPS AND ITS NEW, WHEN IT GOT TO 238 I PULLED OVER AND OPENED THE HOOD AND IT COOLED TO 210 IN LESS THAN 10 MINUTES, I HAVE CALLED NOVAK AND THEY HAVENT HEARD OF ANYONE ELSE HAVING COOLING ISSUES, I KNOW 2 OTHER JEEPS WITH THE SAME SWAP AND SAME RADIATOR AND DONT HAVE A PROBLEM. I DO HAVE A SHOP THAT IS GOING TO CHECK THE TUNING ON NOV 4, MAYBE TO LEAN. NEVER OVERHEATS ON THE TRAIL OR IN TOWN. THANK FOR RESPONDING, FRANK.
 

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Airflow at speed is about pressure differential: need more pressure in front of the radiator than behind it or nothing happens. Things that cause high pressure in the engine bay:

Cowl vents. There’s a reason muscle cars had cowl induction: base of the windshield is a high pressure zone and will backfeed the engine bay.

No splash guards in the wheel wells. Tires act as air pumps and will put air in the engine bay.

No ducting to force air into the radiator. If significant airflow goes around the radiator, high pressure forms in the engine bay.

Winch in front of the radiator can cause low pressure in front of the radiator since it acts as a deflector.

Poor airflow management just aft of the radiator. Most vehicles have a horizontal splash guard to prevent air from hitting the engine/oil pan and backing up airflow.
 

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Just thinking out loud here: How "hot" is hot? ~210-220* I wouldn't be too concerned if that temp remains stable no matter how long the climb may be and if it then returns relatively quickly to "norm"...(if it keeps creeping up from there, that may change my opinion).
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Airflow at speed is about pressure differential: need more pressure in front of the radiator than behind it or nothing happens. Things that cause high pressure in the engine bay:

Cowl vents. There’s a reason muscle cars had cowl induction: base of the windshield is a high pressure zone and will backfeed the engine bay.

No splash guards in the wheel wells. Tires act as air pumps and will put air in the engine bay.

No ducting to force air into the radiator. If significant airflow goes around the radiator, high pressure forms in the engine bay.

Winch in front of the radiator can cause low pressure in front of the radiator since it acts as a deflector.

Poor airflow management just aft of the radiator. Most vehicles have a horizontal splash guard to prevent air from hitting the engine/oil pan and backing up airflow.
SOME VERY GOOD POINTS, THE WINCH COULD BE THE ISSUE, ALONG WITH NO SPLASH GUARD, THANKS
 

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SWAPPED IN A 5.3LS, 4L60E, NEW NOVAK RADIATOR, NEW GM THERMOSTAT, ONLY GETS HOT GOING UP A GRADE, RUNS FINE ON TRAILS, IDLING, AND CITY DRIVING. ANYONE HAVE A THOUGHT?
What is the torque convertor doing?? If your transmission is cooled through the radiator and the torque converter is staying unlocked climbing hills then it will generate enough heat to overpower your cooling system. My older 454 with a 4l80e would do this and overheat. Also, my 05 Duramax will do the same if I try to power up the hills. Most torque converters are commanded to unload after 50 to 60 percent throttle. Lower gears and less throttle is the quick solution to this. Other solutions are to use a triple-disc converter and command it to stay locked up into the higher throttle positions.
 
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