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Discussion Starter #22
What is the torque convertor doing?? If your transmission is cooled through the radiator and the torque converter is staying unlocked climbing hills then it will generate enough heat to overpower your cooling system. My older 454 with a 4l80e would do this and overheat. Also, my 05 Duramax will do the same if I try to power up the hills. Most torque converters are commanded to unload after 50 to 60 percent throttle. Lower gears and less throttle is the quick solution to this. Other solutions are to use a triple-disc converter and command it to stay locked up into the higher throttle positions.
THANKS FOR THE RESPONSE, BUT THE TRANS COOLER IS SEPARATE FROM THE RADIATOR.
 

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My LJ with LS3 with Novak radiator and Spal 16" fan does the same. And I live in the mountains. I sucks. I've tried absolutely everything and nothing made it any better. I threw so much time and money at it trying stuff and it made zero improvement.

The only significant headway I made is when I realized the fan was shutting off at 35 MPH. It need to be on ALL THE TIME. The tuner wanted to argue with me about this and not change it. I showed up the next day with the fan wires straight to the battery and we went for a ride and I showed him how much better it cools at highway speed.

FYI, that Spal fan puts out less airflow than the OEM LJ fan. If there was an easy way to back to mechanical, I would have done it already.

I'm having a shop design a custom radiator that's about 30% bigger (as big as space allows without extreme cutting) and use a JL fan that will TRIPLE my airflow. Hopefully have it by February.
 

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I still want to see a picture of the fan shroud set up. Is the shroud totally covering the radiator? If so put some holes in it. You need to let the air flow through at speed. The electric fans tend to actually block airflow at higher speeds. I had this problem with my crawler.
 

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I still want to see a picture of the fan shroud set up. Is the shroud totally covering the radiator? If so put some holes in it. You need to let the air flow through at speed. The electric fans tend to actually block airflow at higher speeds. I had this problem with my crawler.
The orange is silicone flaps that are supposed to open up at high speed then the fan sucks them shut at low speed. The guys at Novak told me they tested this extensively until it was perfect.

3111259
 

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Discussion Starter #26
My LJ with LS3 with Novak radiator and Spal 16" fan does the same. And I live in the mountains. I sucks. I've tried absolutely everything and nothing made it any better. I threw so much time and money at it trying stuff and it made zero improvement.

The only significant headway I made is when I realized the fan was shutting off at 35 MPH. It need to be on ALL THE TIME. The tuner wanted to argue with me about this and not change it. I showed up the next day with the fan wires straight to the battery and we went for a ride and I showed him how much better it cools at highway speed.

FYI, that Spal fan puts out less airflow than the OEM LJ fan. If there was an easy way to back to mechanical, I would have done it already.

I'm having a shop design a custom radiator that's about 30% bigger (as big as space allows without extreme cutting) and use a JL fan that will TRIPLE my airflow. Hopefully have it by February.
Thanks for responding. I’m going to try lowering my winch, it’s covering up 1/2 the radiator.
 

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Thanks for responding. I’m going to try lowering my winch, it’s covering up 1/2 the radiator.
I hope it helps for you. Sure won't hurt anything. I took my winch completely off which gives the radiator completely unrestricted airflow. It helped zero so I put it right back on. You need more airlflow man. That 16" Spal fan doesn't even pull as much airflow as the OEM mechanical fan that was only designed to cool 200 HP.
 

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I hope it helps for you. Sure won't hurt anything. I took my winch completely off which gives the radiator completely unrestricted airflow. It helped zero so I put it right back on. You need more airlflow man. That 16" Spal fan doesn't even pull as much airflow as the OEM mechanical fan that was only designed to cool 200 HP.
I have to agree. I have a 16" flexlite that is supposed to move 3500cfm. But in my pushing set up. It doesn't cool my 406 on hot days. It will creep up in temp. I had to add another 10" that pulls to bring it back down.
 

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A friend's TJ has a swapped in 1998 ZJ 5.9l Magnum engine with the stock fan clutch and 10 blade plastic fan from a '98 California 5.2l ZJ. 46RE trans with the radiator cooler and en external cooler. Also is running a stock TJ 4.0l fan shroud on an Amazon Chevy/Dodge V8 3 row conversion radiator. It has Poison Spider hood vents. 180 t-stat.

We ran it out to the desert near Blythe a month or so ago when it was 100 degrees out. Never ran hot on the freeway. Got 18 mpg to boot while averaging about 62 mph. She was following me as I was towing my teardrop. Above 62 is where the CHP will start writing a speeding ticket when you are towing in Commiefornia) On the way home it was 104 and she drove with the flow of traffic, 75 or so, and still no running hot, A/C was on both times.

I donno, but maybe the hood louvering made the difference? Can't compare it before and after as the louvers were put on when it had the 4.0l still in it. Maybe you can find a way to shim the rear edge of the hood up to get a bit more flow under the hood to see if that would help?

This is the radiator I put in it:
 

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Discussion Starter #31
A friend's TJ has a swapped in 1998 ZJ 5.9l Magnum engine with the stock fan clutch and 10 blade plastic fan from a '98 California 5.2l ZJ. 46RE trans with the radiator cooler and en external cooler. Also is running a stock TJ 4.0l fan shroud on an Amazon Chevy/Dodge V8 3 row conversion radiator. It has Poison Spider hood vents. 180 t-stat.

We ran it out to the desert near Blythe a month or so ago when it was 100 degrees out. Never ran hot on the freeway. Got 18 mpg to boot while averaging about 62 mph. She was following me as I was towing my teardrop. Above 62 is where the CHP will start writing a speeding ticket when you are towing in Commiefornia) On the way home it was 104 and she drove with the flow of traffic, 75 or so, and still no running hot, A/C was on both times.

I donno, but maybe the hood louvering made the difference? Can't compare it before and after as the louvers were put on when it had the 4.0l still in it. Maybe you can find a way to shim the rear edge of the hood up to get a bit more flow under the hood to see if that would help?

This is the radiator I put in it:
Thanks for responding, I’ll try that also.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I have to agree. I have a 16" flexlite that is supposed to move 3500cfm. But in my pushing set up. It doesn't cool my 406 on hot days. It will creep up in temp. I had to add another 10" that pulls to bring it back down.
Ok, might have to a pusher fan too, thanks
 

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Lots of good suggestions.

A couple of key points....

If it does not overheat in normal city and fwy driving, then it sounds like things are put together right.

Over heating going up grade?
A couple of questions...
1. How hot?
2. Belt driven fan?
3. Altitude?

mhildreth Brought up some very good points.
If belt driven fan, then unless your RPM's are up there, the fan is not turning at high RPM. One of the reasons and electric fan is desired.


How Hot? Unless you're hitting 230+, your not over heating.

Altitude? The higher you are, the thinner the air and lower the boiling point. And I'm talking about being above 5000'
 

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One thing that you might check, (I'm sure it's ok), but make sure the electric fan is wired correctly, meaning the air flow is towards the engine. A friend of mine once accidently wired an electric fan backwards and it counteracted the airflow of driving at speed but cooled normally at low speed.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Lots of good suggestions.

A couple of key points....

If it does not overheat in normal city and fwy driving, then it sounds like things are put together right.

Over heating going up grade?
A couple of questions...
1. How hot?
2. Belt driven fan?
3. Altitude?

mhildreth Brought up some very good points.
If belt driven fan, then unless your RPM's are up there, the fan is not turning at high RPM. One of the reasons and electric fan is desired.


How Hot? Unless you're hitting 230+, your not over heating.

Altitude? The higher you are, the thinner the air and lower the boiling point. And I'm talking about being above 5000'
It gets hot, 245, on any grade at any speed, 6 mph or 65mph
electric fan 2300cfm
went from 1500 ft to 3000 ft
going to try running up the grade without the hood and see if that makes a difference, might need more venting in the hood. thanks for the response.
 

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It gets hot, 245, on any grade at any speed, 6 mph or 65mph
electric fan 2300cfm
went from 1500 ft to 3000 ft
going to try running up the grade without the hood and see if that makes a difference, might need more venting in the hood. thanks for the response.
245 is HOT. Are you sure the gauge is accurate? One sure fire way to confirm....pull the sending unit...attach a ground wire to the body and drop that bitch into a pot of boiling water. Gauge should read around 212°F.

Hood won't make any difference. The bottom is so open, no restriction.

I think the 'air flow direction' suggestion above is your next check.

Are you using any water at all? If so, then you have a blown head gasket...or cracked head.
 
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