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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, I'm trying to plan ahead!!!

I'm curious about the LT 230 swap into a '91 RR.( I'm still doing the 44 swap and have a high angle front DS so would like to know more. Pinion seal -axle -and vibes - DS -would be a problem for 4wd full-time BW )
Yeah I searched but could not find! Boy does that sound familiar :rolleyes:

BCB and Ashcroft make the spools ???

What are the lever options? 2wd ( rear) HI and 4wd low. ( i'd really like to have 4wd HI, great for snow covered highways up here!!!)

Does the front drive shaft turn at all ??? ( or like auto-locking hub t-cases ie. np 231)

What is the best year to look for?? ( 95-96) or what letter? The easiest (read cheapest year)
Thanks Jamie
 

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High and low are indpendent of the 2/4wd.

Your front driveshaft will still turn if you still use driveflanges. You will need locking hubs if you don't want it to spin.

-Jeff
 

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I'm sure this is the last thing on everyones list to do this mod, but I'm curious of the MPG gains on the part time conversion.
 

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JC8 said:
Would anyone have any pics of the finished install, in a RR.
Climb under an 87 or 88 RR or an Auto disco. What details are you looking for?

-Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Unfortuneatly up here I have the only Range Rover of any year. ( And the only one doing mods to it!!!!) There's 1 Discovery II.

1. I was reading that there was some console work that had to be done. ( Is it just cutting the tunnel for the shifter arm. ( Like a body lift often requires?)

2. I've only seen 230's in catalogues and do not quite understand how a F/T 4wd tcase that has H/L can be driven in 4wd High. (I undertand the spool, it can disengage the front, but I thought when you put YOUR 230 in LOW it engaged the front DS.) Am i :smokin: or what???

Thanks!
Jamie
 

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The left coin tray needs to be removed so you can engage diff lock (or the front axle if you have a spool) which is a side to side motion. High low is a front to back motion.

This is stock linkage. The only thing Hurst is the shift knob.



-Jeff
 

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JC8 said:
2. I've only seen 230's in catalogues and do not quite understand how a F/T 4wd tcase that has H/L can be driven in 4wd High. (I undertand the spool, it can disengage the front, but I thought when you put YOUR 230 in LOW it engaged the front DS.) Am i :smokin: or what???
No you would lock the diff to engage the front DS. Low/High is completely separate.

The "standard" set-up in the LT230 has a dog clutch that locks the center diff housing to the front driveshaft to accomplish the diff locking. The part time system would (I assume) just get rid of the differential internals and permanently lock the rear DS to what was the diff housing.

LT230 Manual
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks JSBriggs,

I never came across the side to side motion. Makes a lot more sense now!!

If you had to do it again what would you do differently???

Is there a year that is more easily dropped in??

I would try to get one with the shifter linkage, drum brake and the hand brake linkage. Anything else???????????????????

Did Rover ever use a CV joint in any of there Dshafts???

Tanks again
Jamie( I'm sooooooooooooo excited for the 230 swap!!!)
 

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JC8 said:
Thanks JSBriggs,

I never came across the side to side motion. Makes a lot more sense now!!

If you had to do it again what would you do differently???

Is there a year that is more easily dropped in??

I would try to get one with the shifter linkage, drum brake and the hand brake linkage. Anything else???????????????????

Did Rover ever use a CV joint in any of there Dshafts???

Tanks again
Jamie( I'm sooooooooooooo excited for the 230 swap!!!)
A disco brake drum assembly is the easiest.

If it has the cross drilled imput gear you need a ZF spud shaft with the longer splines (search, there are pics&info on the board)

Also get the the entire Tcase frame mount. It mounts to the right side of the case.

CV drive shaft: Disco 2

-Jeff
 

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Hi guys. I've just fitted the Ashcrofts 2WD conversion to my LT230 - photos are here: LT230 2WD Conversion

I regret buying the kit now - it was 150 GBP and the only bits I needed were the two tiny bits of metal that go in the LT230, the bulk of the "kit" is the free-wheeling hubs. If anyone wants a set of Defender free-wheeling hubs, drop me a line :rolleyes:

The conversion could be done very easily if you can weld, the only potential problem is supporting the front output shaft once you've removed the diff gear from the end of it.
 

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Humm,

I would be interested in the FWH, what EXACTLY are they spline wise?

also, those bits do they look like LR parts (ie could be ordered for one of the early part time LT230s?)

Does the kit work with a 1.22 D90 V8 lt230?

Ron
 

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evilfij said:
Humm,

I would be interested in the FWH, what EXACTLY are they spline wise?

also, those bits do they look like LR parts (ie could be ordered for one of the early part time LT230s?)

Does the kit work with a 1.22 D90 V8 lt230?

Ron
AFAIK there are no differences in the centre diff of any LT230 and no early (or late) LT230 were part time.

I don't see why the kit would not fit any LT230.
 

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red90rover said:
Sorry to burst your bubble, but there were factory part time LT230s. I think it was in 1984/85.

Yes John is right, but AFAIK it was only offered as an option on One-Ten's when they first came out (which in the UK was the end of 1983 or early 1984). If I recall correctly it was in case people didn't want a permanent 4x4 110, and was not very popular so was discontinued.
 

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Ron, the FWH's look like this:


Exactly like Series FWH's but the wrong number of bolt holes :rolleyes:
I think they're 24 splines but I could be wrong - next time I'm near them I'll count and let you know. They're made by AVM but the kit was a land rover option for a while.

The kit fits any LT230, but like I said unless you really want / need it to be 100% bolt-in you may as well weld up the diff and save yourself 150 quid. ($300 ish?)
 

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Welding it up would not give me 2wd.

I would like the little conversion bits. I wonder if they are available seperately? The hubs won't work for me then.

I just bought a blown diff LT230 so PT would be good as opposed to buying a new diff :)

:evil:
 

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The idea would be to remove the front output shaft diff gear and weld the pinions to the rear gear. This would give 2WD. However, I don't think the front shaft would have a support/bearing at the diff end. If I understand it right, you would need to fab a bushing to support the shaft.
 

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fridgefreezer said:
Ron, the FWH's look like this:


Exactly like Series FWH's but the wrong number of bolt holes :rolleyes:
I think they're 24 splines but I could be wrong - next time I'm near them I'll count and let you know. They're made by AVM but the kit was a land rover option for a while.

The kit fits any LT230, but like I said unless you really want / need it to be 100% bolt-in you may as well weld up the diff and save yourself 150 quid. ($300 ish?)
Fridgefreezer - does your 109 have a stage1 front axle? If so and you want to use the FWH you can fit 110/90 (drum brake) rear hubs and then you will have the righ drive flange bolt pattern.

For the stage1 Land Rover changed to the Range Rover type stub axles, hubs and wheel bearings. You could even convert to discs by fitting RR hubs and discs to the front - you just then have to make a caliper mount that bolts to the upper and lower swivel pin bolts.
 

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No, I have a normal Series 3 axle with 3.54:1 diff and hence normal series 3 FWH's. Once I get a front propshaft that's balanced I will probably do away with the FWH's altogether - they're a weak link and make doing wheel bearings more of a fiddle.

If anyone's interested the defender hubs are 24-spline - any offers? :p

Red90rover has the right idea - you weld up the back and just need to stick something to support the shaft in the front. Those "required parts" in my photo do the same thing - one bit sits against the rear pinion drive gear and locates with the two dowels to lock the rear shaft to the diff casing. The other bit is an inteanlly splined bearing with a lip to replace the front pinion drive gear.

Here are the two bits - first the bearing:

And now the locking bit:

I'm a bit concerned the locking bit will try to push the assembly apart due to the way it locates against the gear - if it causes problems I'm going to get the diff welded up instead :rolleyes:
 
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