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Discussion Starter #1
Alright.

I see this dead horse needs some more beating, so here goes.

I got a Disco front driveline this weekend, so now I can finish up my LT-230 swap into the LWB. :flipoff2:

Question:

Can I remove the lock-out solenoid w/out dropping the LT-230? Without removing the crossmember and lowering the LT-230? Without touching any wrenches?

:flipoff2:

Ok, now that it's out, can I just make a plate and RTV it in place with the requisite bolts? Is there anything else that needs attending to (i.e. grease/oil).

Thanks,

Michael
 

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You are on your own as to how tight of a confined space you can turn a wrench, and what needs to be removed to give you more space.

Once you remove the solinoid housing, instead of making a new blank off plate, you can just remove the solinoid from the housing and silly-cone up the wire hole and re install (of course with more silicone).

-Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So I'm under the truck futzing around and find all these plugs that are just dangling there. Apparently my trusty assistant (FrankenRover) didn't plug them together the way that he was supposed to!!!:flipoff2: Hehe.

So, I plugged them all up, now the solenoid lock-out actually works as advertised, so I'll probably leave it alone.

BUT, now the tranny temp light is lit in the dash! Doh! So, I'll probably unplug that wire (try to figure out which one it was) and run it.

Now I need to remove that upper console trim piece and make it bigger. I can't remember the *exact* procedure short of breaking something.

I'd like to try to keep it all together and have it looking nice when it's all done. Any tips/hints on how it comes off? Something I'm going to miss that would have made all the difference?

Thanks Jeff.
 

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Go ahead and remove the lock-out solenoid while you still can. Lower the whole shebank down to get to it, it may rest on the cross member or you may need a good floor jack and some blocks..

How could you have the right lockout plug for that thing to work?? Seems fishy and it might lock you out at a bad time!!! K.I.S.S. - pull it out now..
If you have the complete Disco linkage it should be a somwhat direct swap in for the old linkage which will take lowering the 230 to attatch to hi/low and lock/unlock linkages..

Inside the cab there is a mounting plate for the old linkage which comes off/ out and is replaced by the new mounting plate for the new linkage and should bolt right in... again probably easier with the lt230 attatched but left to lower itself down at an alarming distance, so much so you need to pull off the handles on ther shifters so they can lower down into the holes too.

but I am in the theory stage and have no hands on experience on installing in a rangie, only a disco.. I am waiting for you to do it and show me by your pain...



:p - " that's what friends are for " - Diana "DUI" Ross
 

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Discussion Starter #6
"I feel your pain!"

Well, this is the tail end of the conversion actually. I got a front Disco driveline from Bill at GBR over the weekend and thought today was the day.

After getting the driveline installed, shifting out of difflock (10mm wrench) and taking it for a drive, all the clunking is gone. Driveline feels sound and I'm getting anxious to wrap this thing up. The driveline was the thing holding me up.

I think that getting a stock LT-230 equipped driveline is easier than shortening the existing one. I have a Disco here in Vegas that is getting parted out at a local wrecking yard. They would probably do a swingin' deal on the LT-230/linkage/driveline.

I think that the solenoid lock-out wiring is the same between the BW and the LT-230. At least the LT-230 works the way the BW used to. Before I hooked up the wires we were unable to shift from hi to low, now I can do that just fine.

All the linkages are hooked up save the diff-lock portion. FWIW, the thread on the bolt to hold the diff-lock lever down is metric coarse 13mm.

I anxiously await Jeff's phone call so I can start tearing apart the console.
 
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