how much did u pay for the lt230? i dont mind the bw but if i had an lt230 i could easily unlock the transfer case and unlock the hubs on the front d44 and drive in 2wd.
LT230 install - with pics!
5
Brian wanted to see some pics, so I obliged.
I got the speedo drive installed. This is a '94, so I kept the original drive. Bolted right in.
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Took one of the studs off of the BW case and transferred it to the LT230. The lower stud wouldn't come out of the BW, so I found a bolt that would fit. I think it's one of the t-case mount bolts. Anyway, there's plenty of depth in that lower hole, I don't think you cold get a bolt to interfere with anything inside even if you had to. Also picked up a seal. Got it at the dealer, so apologies for not having a CB replacement. As it was, $12 and I was out the door. They had *ONE* in stock.
Installed it with a rubber mallet and all is good. Test fit the input shaft for good measure.
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Two views of the BW sitting on the floor. You can see the studs from the frontside. I think I remember there being bolts on the last swap I did...can't remember for sure.
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Got the linkages all re-done, new grease, some new bolts/nylocks, etc...thought I'd see how it's all going to bolt up, so I put the linkage on with it sitting on the bench. Only later when I got the t-case installed into the truck did I realize that the linkage mock-up was on backward. Doh! :shaking:
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So I got it in the truck tonight, got most of the easy bolts installed and will finish tomorrow. I realized that I didn't put in a retaining clip on one of the linkage pins, hopefully I remember to install it tomorrow.
Also the fun of doing the tunnel cover shift knob boot thing arrives. I'm going to try to find an old yellow knob from a series truck for the shifter. I might have one laying around somewhere. Short of that, does anyone have an old D1 or RRC knob with the correct diagram printed on it?
I don't think you guys want pics of me installing the exhaust, cross-member or the driveshaft, so that will probably be it for the pics. Hope they are purty enough for 'ya.
:flipoff2:
I got the speedo drive installed. This is a '94, so I kept the original drive. Bolted right in.
Took one of the studs off of the BW case and transferred it to the LT230. The lower stud wouldn't come out of the BW, so I found a bolt that would fit. I think it's one of the t-case mount bolts. Anyway, there's plenty of depth in that lower hole, I don't think you cold get a bolt to interfere with anything inside even if you had to. Also picked up a seal. Got it at the dealer, so apologies for not having a CB replacement. As it was, $12 and I was out the door. They had *ONE* in stock.
Installed it with a rubber mallet and all is good. Test fit the input shaft for good measure.
Two views of the BW sitting on the floor. You can see the studs from the frontside. I think I remember there being bolts on the last swap I did...can't remember for sure.
Got the linkages all re-done, new grease, some new bolts/nylocks, etc...thought I'd see how it's all going to bolt up, so I put the linkage on with it sitting on the bench. Only later when I got the t-case installed into the truck did I realize that the linkage mock-up was on backward. Doh! :shaking:
So I got it in the truck tonight, got most of the easy bolts installed and will finish tomorrow. I realized that I didn't put in a retaining clip on one of the linkage pins, hopefully I remember to install it tomorrow.
Also the fun of doing the tunnel cover shift knob boot thing arrives. I'm going to try to find an old yellow knob from a series truck for the shifter. I might have one laying around somewhere. Short of that, does anyone have an old D1 or RRC knob with the correct diagram printed on it?
I don't think you guys want pics of me installing the exhaust, cross-member or the driveshaft, so that will probably be it for the pics. Hope they are purty enough for 'ya.
:flipoff2:
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I traded a 4.2 for the t-case. Something makes me think I got the short end of the deal though.
On the CrewCab I have an LT-230 that has been converted to part-time 4wd. I also have freewheeling hubs on the front Rover axle, and drive it around in rear wheel drive 99% of the time.
That mod saved my bacon on one trip where I blew the ring gear and didn't want to fix it on the trail (up in the Tillamook BTW...). Unlocked the hubs, went into 2wd and drove all the way home to Vegas before I could fix it.
On the CrewCab I have an LT-230 that has been converted to part-time 4wd. I also have freewheeling hubs on the front Rover axle, and drive it around in rear wheel drive 99% of the time.
That mod saved my bacon on one trip where I blew the ring gear and didn't want to fix it on the trail (up in the Tillamook BTW...). Unlocked the hubs, went into 2wd and drove all the way home to Vegas before I could fix it.
Really have to admire someone that has studio back drops and lights set up in their garage :laughing:![]()
I dunno, I always like seeing all the extra stuff in your garage Pete
Its like the old "find the creature" game in the Weekly Reader
I'll take one of those too. :laughing:I dunno, I always like seeing all the extra stuff in your garage Pete
Interesting information discovered today. Pics will probably describe better than words...but here's the words.
The Borg-Warner e-brake cannot be used on an LT-230...let me re-phrase that. You can use the BW on the LT-230, but you will only be able to bolt it on with three bolts. Only three of the holes line up correctly, and the e-brake is cocked 90-degrees CCW. You could easily drill a hole to fit the LT-230 and use all four bolts. I happened to have an LT-230 e-brake from a Disco1 and used it w/out having to drill any holes.
For comparison's sake I photographed both e-brakes, lined them up and indicated holes in the following pic.
For those who know Photoshop, you can download a higher-res version of that image, complete with layers and saved as a .PSD file so that you can see what is going on in detail.
For those who don't know Photoshop, you could probably eyeball where the hole would need to be drilled and make your BW e-brake work perfectly fine on an LT-230.
Here's the low-rez pic:
![]()
To download the high-rez pic, download THIS LINK.
You may have to take off the .html tag to get it to open as a .PSD file.
One thing I don't remember anyone mentioning when doing the conversion, is that the right-side t-case mount will need two additional M12 bolts. The original BW t-case mount uses two bolts, the LT-230 mount uses four.
Also, on my install, it seems like there won't need to be any major modification of the tunnel cover. I did get a swanky square rubber shift-boot from Six States when I dropped off my rear driveline to be rebuilt. If I need it I'll take pics of that too.
Crazy George is supposedly sending me the correct shifter knob, so that'll be cool.
I'm using Lucas diff oil 75w90 synthetic in the t-case. Didn't hook up any sensors, except for the speedo drive. Am considering hooking up the temp sensor.
There's more, I'm sure, if/when I remember, I'll add to this thread.
The Borg-Warner e-brake cannot be used on an LT-230...let me re-phrase that. You can use the BW on the LT-230, but you will only be able to bolt it on with three bolts. Only three of the holes line up correctly, and the e-brake is cocked 90-degrees CCW. You could easily drill a hole to fit the LT-230 and use all four bolts. I happened to have an LT-230 e-brake from a Disco1 and used it w/out having to drill any holes.
For comparison's sake I photographed both e-brakes, lined them up and indicated holes in the following pic.
For those who know Photoshop, you can download a higher-res version of that image, complete with layers and saved as a .PSD file so that you can see what is going on in detail.
For those who don't know Photoshop, you could probably eyeball where the hole would need to be drilled and make your BW e-brake work perfectly fine on an LT-230.
Here's the low-rez pic:
To download the high-rez pic, download THIS LINK.
You may have to take off the .html tag to get it to open as a .PSD file.
One thing I don't remember anyone mentioning when doing the conversion, is that the right-side t-case mount will need two additional M12 bolts. The original BW t-case mount uses two bolts, the LT-230 mount uses four.
Also, on my install, it seems like there won't need to be any major modification of the tunnel cover. I did get a swanky square rubber shift-boot from Six States when I dropped off my rear driveline to be rebuilt. If I need it I'll take pics of that too.
Crazy George is supposedly sending me the correct shifter knob, so that'll be cool.
I'm using Lucas diff oil 75w90 synthetic in the t-case. Didn't hook up any sensors, except for the speedo drive. Am considering hooking up the temp sensor.
There's more, I'm sure, if/when I remember, I'll add to this thread.
LOLI dunno, I always like seeing all the extra stuff in your garage Pete
I will start hidding gun parts and other stuff in the back ground
This pic is for you Keith.I dunno, I always like seeing all the extra stuff in your garage Pete
If you want a higher-rez version, click HERE
See if you can find the input shaft that I didn't end up using.
Send me your address and I'll send it back. It was good for the mock-up, but since mine was dirtier and yours was clean, I thought I'd use my old dingy one. :flipoff2:
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