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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
October 2018
IMG_2785.jpg

OLD STUFF

Swapping in 60s front and rear and running 40" Nittos

1223.jpg

1225.jpg

August 2012
2012-08-12_13-08-10_320.jpg
June 2012

20120624 Jeep (8).jpg

Picture 2011 when I had engine installed and jeep drivable on stock drivetrain.



This is my 1st Jeep build so I am going in non-hardcore although I wouldn’t mind advice or criticizing from hardcore members from time-to-time. This will be a daily driver. Some rock crawling, lots of snow, some mud, lots of camping trips. Feel free to move to hardcore as this thread progresses :D

This is the first jeep I have owned, I’d like to fire it up and have it drivable by January 1st. (so I win a $5 bet) After that I’ll probably tear it down for suspension or body work. Only 2 weeks left to get this thing running.

1999 TJ (bought it a couple months ago, it had 4 cylinder and BAD auto trans)

Stage 1 Transplant Drivetrain

2008 6.0 LY6
2003 Chevy NV4500 (32 Spline Output)
NP241C with SYE (32 Spline Input)
No Body Lift (I don’t like em)
No suspension Lift (yet)
Stock Skidplate for now
Tub cut for shifter hole & for NP241 clearance
Stock Axles, 3.73, and 31” tires for now

Stage 2 (Winter 2011)
Suspension, wheels, tires, axles
37x13.5x17 Toyo Open Country MT
4-6” lift
79 Ford Dana 60 narrowed to 66.5" WMS
Custom Dana 60 Rear 65.5" WMS (plan on using 14 bolt or Dana 70 hubs)
ARBs with 4.56 Gears
14" ORI STX Front & Rear
All Ballistic Joints
Gen Right Comp Tank

Stage 3 (whoops, occured before stage 2)
Body / Interior
The interior will be 90% done October 2011.
Mastercraft Baja RS Seats
Interior floor,undertub, and firewall shot with southern polyurethanes bed liner kit.

Helpful Links / misc
finding what part I need by VIN GM Parts Giant - Lowest Price for Genuine GM Parts
VIN Decoding and parts finding Comprehensive Chevrolet, Saturn, GMC, Hummer, Cadillac, Buick, Oldsmobile, Pontiac, Geo, Dodge, Plymouth, Jeep, Chrysler, Ford, Lincoln, Mercury, Mazda Truck, Mercedes VIN Decoder

GM Media site is hard to navigate but it has good info.
My NV4500 Untitled Document
2008 GM Powertrain Info GM Media Online: English

Photobucket Folder for more pics 99TJ LY6 NV4500 Photos by kmkommes | Photobucket
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Parts List and “Budget”

I would like to use the word budget but that would require a plan and my plan changes daily. This is more of a track expenses and guess how much I might have into this thing in the end, this should avoid some, what did you use or how much did it cost questions. I will be editing this post as time goes on. I’m pretty much tracking every penny but I’m not going to list everything.

I think most all of my purchases are defendable and justifiable so far.

Stage 1 guesstimate $8000
$2600 Purchase Jeep
$2800 Engine and Installation
$2000 Transmission
$600 Transfer Case

$2599 Jeep
$2500 Purchase
$99 Sold Parts, Tax, Title, Registration, Manual, misc, Tow Jeep home

$2000 Engine Swap
$650 2008 Chevy 6.0L LY6 $650
$167 Carfaxes $50 (I still have 3 left),$17 www.alldatadiy.com, $100 Hptuner Tune
$168 Advanced Adapters motor mounts ordered from Poly Performance
$166 Misc stuff broken/missing from engine, sensors…..
$27 Dipstick & Tubes 12622055 & 12609269
$13 another dipstick tube  (I broke 1 tube while rotating engine on stand)
$7 Oil Cooler Bypass 12577903
$150 Exhaust Manifolds off LS3 Camaro SS
Radiator & Electric Fan, ordered straight from Griffin
$125 Fuel System, Lines, misc, I stock pump from 2008 LY6 Van
$44 Power Steering Pump SP17134
$34 Steam Port T with ¼” fitting, Jagsthatrun
$22 Heater Lines, misc
$80 Fluids

$1910 Transmission Swap
$1050 Low mileage NV4500 from 2003 4x4 Silverado shipped
$518 Centerforce DF997997, Flywheel, Clutch, Pressure Plate
$13 Pilot Bearing 12557583
$13 Transmission Covers 12561536 & 12561303
$115 Slave Cylinder, AAP, Perfection 900071
$48 Master Cylinder, Stock for 99 TJ from AAP (advance auto parts)
$22 Clutch Pedal Assembly
$80 Fluid
$50 misc

$600 Transfer Case NP241C
$100 qty 2 tcases, one was rebuilt but broken, had new chain in it
$382 Slip Yoke Emilinator JB Conversions Super Short 16-1207
$16 Synthetic Fluid
$100 Timken TCRK214 Rebuilt kit include all bearings, seals, shift fork tabs, misc


Still need
$25 Shifter Boot
$150 Exhaust - Muffler to back of jeep

Misc Parts Aquired
$6 Vacuum Line Nipple Gm Part # 12559760
$85 Misc Tubing 2.5” mandrelexhaustsystems.com
$48 Flowmaster Y250350 (dual 2.5” into single 3.5”)
$109 Muffler, Magnaflow 12587 (single 3.5” into dual 2.5”) planetmagnaflow
Free Exhaust Flanges : ) I had these burnt out by a friend
$40 Intake Parts - Siliconepiping.com
$21 Intake Elbow 4” 90°, Spectre 9799
Free K&N RE-0920 (I already had this)
$31 2008 Grand Prix Throttle Pedal
$15 Shift Lever
$165 Optima Yellowtop D34 78


Stage 2

Stage 3
 

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Cool build. This is almost the same drivetrain as in my YJ. (I have an LQ4 instead of LY6). Hope you don't have a day job, 'cause finishing this in two weeks is going to be a challenge...

NV4500/no body lift/stock skid...You planning on hacking the tub pretty good then? You'll likely need to build a little doghouse around the shifter housing.

$650 2008 Chevy 6.0L LY6 $650
Dude...that's ultra cheap! where did you snake that deal? Bare block? High miles? What's going on here?


Jake
 

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Just looked at your Photobucket...that 241 is really shoehorned in there:


Looks like you're using the super-short 241 JB SYE? Or is it the middling one? I've got the one that uses part of the stock oil pump housing and has the big red aluminum thing on there (only one available back when I did mine)... With a 1350 drive flange it just barely clears the tub on mine. (That's a YJ w/1" BL.) You must be going straight from the yoke to CV joint then?

PS pump clearance looks a bit tight with the stock suspenders...



Looks like you've got a decent start anyway,
Jake
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Cool build. This is almost the same drivetrain as in my YJ. (I have an LQ4 instead of LY6). Hope you don't have a day job, 'cause finishing this in two weeks is going to be a challenge...

NV4500/no body lift/stock skid...You planning on hacking the tub pretty good then? You'll likely need to build a little doghouse around the shifter housing.

Dude...that's ultra cheap! where did you snake that deal? Bare block? High miles? What's going on here?


Jake
Hahaha $650 is an artificial price. I paid $1200 + $150 gas + a days worth of driving to go and get it. I found it ion craigslist. Guy advertised it as 6.0 engine from a Van. After some research I got the VIN and used compnine to figure out it was the LY6. I carfaxed it and last reported mileage was 36,000 with a few months of driving after that.

For $1350 I got engine, all accessories, wiring harness, computer, Dana 60 rear axle, fuel tank with fuel pump, 4L80E Transmission, long useless aluminum driveshaft, and a couple more misc things

Within 1 week I sold the 4L80E trans for $700 locally.

That’s where I get the $650…
Now I did have to buy a couple new coils, knock sensor, O2, truck dipstick tube, and misc parts here and there, but overall it was a good deal, mostly complete.

If I value the disc brake dana 60 at $500 then my engine price goes even lower. This is how I help justify spending more here or there.

I have the rare 33 spline c-clip dana 60 with 12 bolts on the diff cover talked about in this thread : )
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=935959&highlight=

As far as the engine goes, yes it is from a Van. I have yet to find anything different other than intake,exhaust, dip stick tube, and maybe a few emmisions things that are different though. It has the L92 heads, I also compared the tune to a Silverado tune and everything is the same other than some idle stuff and the MAF tune.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The Tcase fitment isnt as terribly bad as it looks. It would probbaly almost clear with no cutting but I wanted some space around it. Modding the tub in this location shouldnt be too bad.

I used the JB super short 16-1207 with a 1310 on there for now. I measured and the 1350 flange will have 1 inch clearance. I will likely switch to a CV 1350 driveshaft and flange when I change rear axle. Again, my current driveshaft is temporary and will not be great for highway use, it is not balanced, it is non CV and tcase and rear axle are out of line a couple degrees.

PS pump clearance is about 1", for sure less than 2".
When searching for a power steering reservoir I noticed the newer silverados had the reservoir on the pump. So I went with that. Im going to have to block the font axle for my first few test rides so nothing comes in contact.

I am a little further along that the pics show, I just wanted to get a thread started. To start it I need all electrical, & the air intake & steam port mod.
To drive it I need exhaust and shifter.


Engine fitment

Some things to add about engine fitment since this was my first Jeep build. Stupid things make it difficult, well not difficult, but they add time.
Dont build a centered transmission mount or things wont fit right and you'll have to build it again :)

1) AA mounts offset the engine 1/2" to the passenger side.
2) When measuring the engine head to firewall clearance take note the DS firewall is 1/2 further forward and the DS head is 1" forward on the block.
3) I used the AA engine mount placement tool and shimed the engine to the forward position and have about 1/2" clearance on each side.
4) Stock TJ had driveline to PS I think about 3/4"
5) My Dana 60, Dana 35, and 12 bolt varied from 1/2" to 1" pinion offset to PS
 

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Hahaha $650 is an artificial price. I paid $1200 + $150 gas + a days worth of driving to go and get it. I found it ion craigslist. Guy advertised it as 6.0 engine from a Van. After some research I got the VIN and used compnine to figure out it was the LY6. I carfaxed it and last reported mileage was 36,000 with a few months of driving after that.

For $1350 I got engine, all accessories, wiring harness, computer, Dana 60 rear axle, fuel tank with fuel pump, 4L80E Transmission, long useless aluminum driveshaft, and a couple more misc things

Within 1 week I sold the 4L80E trans for $700 locally.

That’s where I get the $650…
Now I did have to buy a couple new coils, knock sensor, O2, truck dipstick tube, and misc parts here and there, but overall it was a good deal, mostly complete.

If I value the disc brake dana 60 at $500 then my engine price goes even lower. This is how I help justify spending more here or there.

I have the rare 33 spline clip dana 60 talked about in this thread : )
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=935959&highlight=

As far as the engine goes, yes it is from a Van. I have yet to find anything different other than intake,exhaust, dip stick tube, and maybe a few emmisions things that are different though. It has the L92 heads, I also compared the tune to a Silverado tune and everything is the same other than some idle stuff and the MAF tune.
I see... Nice wheeling and dealing. $1350 even for just the engine is still a good deal on an LY6. I paid $1400 for my 2007 LQ4/harness/computer/TAC/pedal/but no accessories two years ago. Mine was basically new (7500 miles). Still, you got a way better deal than I did.

FWIW, I agree with the people in that other thread telling you to just go 35-spline on that goofy rear D60.
 

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The Tcase fitment isnt as terribly bad as it looks. It would probbaly almost clear with no cutting but I wanted some space around it. Modding the tub in this location shouldnt be too bad.

I used the JB super short 16-1207 with a 1310 on there for now. I measured and the 1350 flange will have 1 inch clearance. I will likely switch to a CV 1350 driveshaft and flange when I change rear axle. Again, my current driveshaft is temporary and will not be great for highway use, it is not balanced, it is non CV and tcase and rear axle are out of line a couple degrees.

PS pump clearance is about 1", for sure less than 2".
When searching for a power steering reservoir I noticed the newer silverados had the reservoir on the pump. So I went with that. Im going to have to block the font axle for my first few test rides so nothing comes in contact.

I am a little further along that the pics show, I just wanted to get a thread started. To start it I need all electrical, & the air intake & steam port mod.
To drive it I need exhaust and shifter.


Engine fitment

Some things to add about engine fitment since this was my first Jeep build. Stupid things make it difficult, well not difficult, but they add time.
Dont build a centered transmission mount or things wont fit right and you'll have to build it again :)

1) AA mounts offset the engine 1/2" to the passenger side.
2) When measuring the engine head to firewall clearance take note the DS firewall is 1/2 further forward and the DS head is 1" forward on the block.
3) I used the AA engine mount placement tool and shimed the engine to the forward position and have about 1/2" clearance on each side.
4) Stock TJ had driveline to PS I think about 3/4"
5) My Dana 60, Dana 35, and 12 bolt varied from 1/2" to 1" pinion offset to PS
How do those exhaust manifold outlets look? It's hard to tell from the pictures. I had to ditch the truck headers that came on mine 'cause they dumped right into the frame rails. I went with some stock C5 Corvette header/manifolds. The van ones look alot like the Camaro manifolds alot of guys use in Jeep swaps.

Post more pics!
Jake
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
How do those exhaust manifold outlets look? It's hard to tell from the pictures. I had to ditch the truck headers that came on mine 'cause they dumped right into the frame rails. I went with some stock C5 Corvette header/manifolds. The van ones look alot like the Camaro manifolds alot of guys use in Jeep swaps.

Post more pics!
Jake
Any picture with the engine in the vehicle is going to have the 2010 Camaro LS3 SS Manifolds which I bought off ebay for $150 shipped.

I did not want to spend $400 on headers at this point and think stock manifolds will be more than fine for now.

The van manifolds dumped into the firewall. The Camaro are a couple inches forward. I cut the lip on the firewall to get the van manifolds to clear but I didn’t like it, they were too close. I will try to get some better shots of the Camaro manifolds and add it in photobucket. They are pretty much in perfect location between the frame, engine, and firewall. Driver side drive shaft might interfere, I’ll figure it out, likely route exhaust around the front of the oil pan. Also, I will be switching to a car style oile pan someday also as you can see the truck pan hanges low

I purchased a set of LS3 Corvette manifolds but they dumped into the motor mounts like I thought they would. Those along with the truck manifolds are for sale if interested.

Camaro LS3 SS


Camaro LS3 SS


Camaro LS3 SS




The next two are stock Van manifolds which I did NOT use. The driver side may have worked but I went camaro anyways. The camaro points down more, not back, so this will work better if I bring exhaust forward to go around the oil pan.



 

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Discussion Starter #13
Any updates? Did you win the 5$ bet? :grinpimp:
I lost, not all my fault though. I was one day late. I got it running yesterday. I wasted a day working on the neighbors vehicle, if it wasn't for that I would have made it. No exhaust yet so I didnt drive it. It sure sounds mean :D

I do have a few small things to finish up
top radiator mount, air intake, exhaust, different throttle pedal, (I stole the throttle pedal from my wifes 08 grand prix GXP, she quickly realized it was missing and I had to return it)


WIRING
I'll edit this post later on with all my wiring info.... that way it isnt scattered throughout my build thread.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
reminder to self - things to add

Talk about CAN
Talk about how how tranmission TCM works
Talk about throttle
repinning stupid OBDII jeep plug because it is pinned wrong

------------------------------

WIRING INFO... hmmm where to start.

I am wiring a 2008 LY6 from a Chevy Express to a 1999 Jeep Wrangler. (This is a Gen IV engine, a silverado 5.3 or 6.0 should be very similar)
The LY6 uses a E38 PCM
I will be utilizing the TJ power distribution box.
I will NOT have AC
I will NOT be using Heated Rear Glass
I have swapped the automatic transmission for a manual.
I will use drive by wire using a throttle pedal from a 2008 grand prix purchased for $31 from local junk yard.
LY6 PCM will mount where the old TJ PCM did
I have deleted the TJ PCM.
Instrument cluster will be Autometer Phantom II

Jeep "AUTO SHUT DOWN RELAY" = LY6 "Powertrain Relay"
Jeep "Rear Heated Glass Relay" = LY6 Electric Fan Relay
Starter and Fuel pump relays are reused.

NO emmisions devices other than O2 sensors
I wired the electric Fan to work when Ignition is OFF
HpTuners mods
VATS disabled
Codes disabled, EVAP (list code #s)
Electric Fan circuit added

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

There are two plugs on the GM LY6 E38 PCM. I will call them Plug A & plug B.
Plug A = 80 pins
Plug B = 73 pins
---------------------------
Plug A
Every wire in this plug goes directly to a engine sensor.
The only modification I have done to plug A is remove wire #8 for the EVAP circuit. No other wires were added or deleted.

A summary of the circuits in connector A are

52 circuits used
28 NOT used

3 Crankshaft Position Sensor
6 Throttle Body
6 O2 Sensors (PRE CAT Sensors)
2 Camshaft Phaser Intake Solenoid
8 Fuel Injector
2 Engine Coolant Temp Signal & Ground
2 Alternator
4 Knock Sensor Signal & Ground
3 Oil Pressure
3 MAP Sensor
3 Camshaft Position Sensor
10 Ignition Coil & Ground

* Pin 33 Oil Level Switch is not in my harness nor in my programming. I did not add this circuit
* EVAP circuit was deleted from harness, PIN 8
* transmission temp might be pins 27&28
* NC = no connection
* (only) is a note to myself which means that wire only goes to that location, some other circuits such as power or ground circuits may branch off and go to multiple locations.


Connector A Pinout
1 NC
2 5-Volt Reference Crankshaft Position Sensor (only)
3 5-Volt Reference Throttle Body (only)
4 NC
5 Throttle Actuator Control Motor Control - 2 Throttle Body (only)
6 Throttle Actuator Control Motor Control - 1 Throttle Body (only)
7 NC
8 Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Purge Solenoid Control, I deleted because I will never use it
9 NC
10 NC
11 NC - Reverse Lockout Solenoid Control, I see NO reason to add this circuit
12 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Heater Low Control - Bank 1 Sensor 1 Left Side of Engine
13 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Heater Low Control - Bank 2 Sensor 1 Right Side of Engine
14 NC
15 NC
16 Camshaft Phaser Intake Solenoid (1) (LY6)
17 Fuel Injector 8 Control
18 Fuel Injector 5 Control
19 Fuel Injector 6 Control
20 Fuel Injector 1 Control
21 Engine Coolant Temperature (ETC) Sensor Signal
22 Low Reference ECT (only)
23 NC possibly Transmission Temp, not added and not used
24 NC possibly Transmission Temp, not added and not used
25 NC
26 Knock Sensor (KS) 1 Signal Knock Sensor (Lower Left)
27 Knock Sensor (KS) 1 Signal Knock Sensor (Lower Left)
28 NC
29 Knock Sensor (KS) 2 Signal Knock Sensor (Lower Right)
30 Knock Sensor (KS) 2 Signal Knock Sensor (Lower Right)
31 NC
32 Generator Field Duty Cycle Signal ECM Straight to Alternator
33 NC = Oil Level Switch Signal, not added and not used
34 Low Reference Engine Oil Pressure (only)
35 Low Reference Throttle Body (only)
36 NC
37 Fuel Injector 2 Control
38 Fuel Injector 3 Control
39 Fuel Injector 4 Control
40 Fuel Injector 7 Control
41 5-Volt Reference Engine Oil Pressure (only)
42 NC
43 5-Volt Reference MAP (only)
44 5-Volt Reference Camshaft Position Sensor (only)
45 NC
46 NC
47 NC
48 NC
49 NC
50 Oil Pressure Sensor Signal Engine Oil Pressure (only)
51 NC
52 Low Reference (LY6) Camshaft Phaser Intake Solenoid (1) (LY6) (only)
53 Low Reference MAP (only)
54 NC
55 NC
56 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Low Signal - Bank 1 Sensor 1 Left Side of Engine
57 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) High Signal - Bank 1 Sensor 1 Left Side of Engine
58 Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor Signal MAP (only)
59 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) High Signal - Bank 2 Sensor 1 Right Side of Engine
60 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Low Signal - Bank 2 Sensor 1 Right Side of Engine
61 Generator Turn On Signal ECM Straight to Alternator
62 NC
63 Throttle Position (TP) Sensor 2 Signal Throttle Body (only)
64 Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor Signal Camshaft Position Sensor (only)
65 Throttle Position (TP) Sensor 1 Signal Throttle Body (only)
66 Low Reference Camshaft Position Sensor (only)
67 NC
68 Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor Signal Crankshaft Position Sensor (only)
69 Low Reference Crankshaft Position Sensor (only)
70 Ignition Coil 1 Control
71 Ignition Coil 8 Control
72 Ignition Coil 7 Control
73 Ignition Coil 2 Control
74 Ignition Coil 6 Control
75 Ignition Coil 5 Control
76 Ignition Coil 4 Control
77 Ignition Coil 3 Control
78 Low Reference Coils 1,3,5,6
79 Low Reference Coils 2,4,6,8
80 NC






to be continued....... updated 1/3/2011
 

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Looks like the build is coming along nice. I'm the guy you sent those build pictures to a few weeks ago. (I'm doing the LY6/NV4500 LJ Rubi build)

Can't remember if I told you, but I have my LY6 and 23 spline out NV4500 sitting in my garage. My LY6 didn't come with a harness so I'm still trying to decide whether to go with Speartech or Mast. I have the stock truck manifolds but it looks like headers or the camaro LS3 manifolds you used will be the route I go.

So what are you doing for guages? It looks like we can make the stock guage cluster work pretty easily and even get the tach to work if we use some type of convertor. Any luck with this? Any wiring pics you can post would really help me out.

Thanks
 

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1999 TJ 6.0L LY6 NV4500 NP241c, Build Thread

Stage 1 Transplant Drivetrain

2008 6.0 LY6
2003 Chevy NV4500 (32 Spline Output)
NP241C with SYE (32 Spline Input)
No Body Lift (I don’t like em)
No suspension Lift (yet)
Stock Skidplate for now
Tub cut for shifter hole & for NP241 clearance
Stock Axles, 3.73, and 31” tires for now
Hey Bud,

I’m building a very similar setup for my rig, but you of course are a mile away in progress.

How did you get the instrument panel to work (I’m assuming that you kept the OEM look of your TJ and figured out a way to connect with the Chevy wiring)


Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Any updates on this?
I pretty much took a month off and made very little progress on it. I ordered some mandrel bent 2.5" aluminized steel tube for the exhaust off ebay. I just got that yesterday. The muffler I ordered comes in Thursday. I hope to have the exhaust at least to the the muffler fabbed up and completed this week. Eventually I'll want to run it out the back but I may wait to see what I do with my suspension before I do that.

Other than exhaust it needs a top radiator mount and the holes in the tub patched up, that's pretty much it for the engine installation.

I did not do anything with the instrument cluster yet. I need to do some more research there. I'm not sure if I'll be able to use the jeep instrument clutser or if I'll just go with some aftermarket gauges. I can probably get by for the 1st month or two with my GPS for speed and my laptop monitoring anything else important. :) If I had time I would build a CAN translator to take the signal from the GM PCM and directly convert it to a signal that the TJ Cluster could understand. That would take a decent amount of time though and my time might be better spent in other places. Maybe that is a good summer project.

I have lots of excuses for not working on the thing that last month. Daughters 1st birthday, Superbowl weekend, Traveling to visit family, Work. I hope to make some good progress pretty soon. I just got myself a copy of SoidWorks 2010 and plan on learning that in my other spare time. Still undecided about suspension.

On a side note... Work has been busy and fun... Check out my LCTV :) http://www.oshkoshdefense.com/lctv
I work in Test & Development at Oshkosh Corporation
I have all of these great trucks that I get to test everyday...

OK. Back on topic..
I do plan on updating eveything eventually and hopefully this thread will help someone out some day.
 

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what did you end up doing to get the transmission to fit? are you running a body lift? my ax15 just died again, so i'm looking to upgrade to something better, plus i have a 5.3 sitting in my garage waiting to go in too.

pics would be helpful too. clearancing the firewall, shifter location in the jeep etc.

thanks.
 
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