Here's a broken stub I had, as you can see, pretty short.
What's that mean exactly?Starslope said:Whoa... amazing what holiday time off can to do some people
I can't get away with that on this soft metal. If I did I'd twist this tiny drill in half. I experimented a little bit and had it engage the clutch of this cordless drill holder. So like I said, I went WAY conservative.ForestCam said:I like my angle flatter, sure they walk more but it's nice getting that one peice shaving.
Actually, with two hands I can get one shaving. I just tried.ForestCam said:I like my angle flatter, sure they walk more but it's nice getting that one peice shaving.
If you can get one piece shavings, I have to ask, why? You don't have to do shit to sharpen on the grinder. I imagine with the DD there's SOME type of setup, no matter how simple. At least, you have to plug it in. My grinder is always sitting in the same spot.ForestCam said:Two things I did learn from my dad, how to sharpen a chisel and sharpening drill bits.
Used my brother's Drill Dr. once and all I gotta say is I WANT ONE!:laughing:
$60 is a lot of money to me. I can buy dozens of drills with that.64rovr said:ahhh dude... a drill doctor is like $60... and takes 15 seconds to sharpen a bit...
Yes that's the way it's cut. The adjustment of that angle is what makes the diff between a more aggresive and milder edge. Thank you for confirming that!frankenfab said:The cutting edge (in blue in the picture) should be higher than the trailing edge (in red). I can't tell from your picture if you ground it this way. I bought a Drill Doctor Journeyman 400 and it is well worth the money. I use it all the time.
No, I'm an expert already, what are you talking about? :flipoff2:ForestCam said:Well my wheel is shit at the moment (gotta get me a dresser) and even with the small amount of set up with the DD it's faster and easier. My brother went through about 100 old bits he had in a coffee can in about a half hour. Once you getthe hang of it it only takes a few seconds per bit and the biggest plus is on the big bits. Ever pull the it off to check your angle only to put it back against the wheel and fawk it up?:laughing:
I was contemplating buying a DD, and adding it to my considerable tools list.... as in, this is $140 further away from my T/A 185TSW. Not anymore, this puts me a few weeks closer to my TIG welder! :bounce: :laughing:ForestCam said:
Drill Doctor 750SPK $139.99 w/free shipping @Amazon plus there's a $10 mail in rebate!
Hmmmm...Sleggtools.com has the same model with the left hand chuck added for $10 more....desisions desisions.....
Thank you! That totally confirms what I found, in my 'secret' paragraph. As long as you get them both the same, the hole will be perfectly round, and so tight the twist drill will actually 'pop' out when you pull it out.toryranger said:flattening the drill point for harder material is a fairly standard thing to do. Watch that the two flutes of the drill are the same lenth when you resharpen it, if they aren't the drill will cut oversize. This can make a difference if you are trying to get a close tolerance hole or drilling for a tapped hole. I was a machinest for 30 yrs and preferred to hand sharpen almost all drills rather then use a machine. On a drill the face of the flute is what is actually cutting, not the end so the Tin coating is still on it. It isn't as good as a fully coated drill but still better then one that isn't coated. A good alternative to tin coat drills is to get cobalt drills.
Nope, don't need it. I just drilled a hole and tapped it out, just to see. No problem. If I'm having a problem with precision above that, I'll go buy a brand-new bit.Supergper said:
the only reason you say you dont NEED a DD is cause you have never used one...once you use one you will agree with everyone else that has and say its a must
I love mine...get a perfect edge without heating the bit and I can choose what angle I want...and if I want to sharpen split points then I can do that...I wouldn;t go without a DD