Here's a broken stub I had, as you can see, pretty short.
Machinists: critique my twist drill sharpening.
Ok, I've read and heard about those expensive, fancy, store bought drill sharpeners. Drill Doctor is about the cheapest little thing you can buy. You can get crazy with a CNC twist drill sharpener that will run you $18,000 and cut a twist drill into a miniature mouse dildo.
BTW, we're in the metal shop, so these are not 'drill bits'. You gotta go next door to 'The New Yankee Workshop' to find those. Here in cutting oil land we call them twist drills. Don't ask me why, it's just what I read.
So, being a poor man, and hearing that 'old machinists' could sharpen twist drills on their own, in their sleep, I was of course intrigued.
Newer twist drills have a 'split point' edge. In order to sharpen them using this method, you have to 'thin the web' I don't have this problem since I have the cheapest bits around, so I don't have anything to critique there. I could figure it out I bet.
I put the grinder rest at an angle I figured was conservative.
I measured the cut angle by placing a large bit on the face of the stone and marking the shank resting on the guide with a sharpie. Only the most precise methods for me!
I eyeballed the edge to get it centered, and I think I did pretty good. The picture I took was with one hand holding it 18" from my body. With two hands it doesn't walk at all. Using a center punch it doesn't walk either of course, and the hole's not egg shaped.
It's not the 'sharpest' thing around, but I drilled 7 or 8 holes, and had no dulling I could tell.
This is the drill I used as a guide:
BTW, we're in the metal shop, so these are not 'drill bits'. You gotta go next door to 'The New Yankee Workshop' to find those. Here in cutting oil land we call them twist drills. Don't ask me why, it's just what I read.
So, being a poor man, and hearing that 'old machinists' could sharpen twist drills on their own, in their sleep, I was of course intrigued.
Newer twist drills have a 'split point' edge. In order to sharpen them using this method, you have to 'thin the web' I don't have this problem since I have the cheapest bits around, so I don't have anything to critique there. I could figure it out I bet.
I put the grinder rest at an angle I figured was conservative.
I measured the cut angle by placing a large bit on the face of the stone and marking the shank resting on the guide with a sharpie.
Only the most precise methods for me!I eyeballed the edge to get it centered, and I think I did pretty good. The picture I took was with one hand holding it 18" from my body. With two hands it doesn't walk at all. Using a center punch it doesn't walk either of course, and the hole's not egg shaped.
It's not the 'sharpest' thing around, but I drilled 7 or 8 holes, and had no dulling I could tell.
This is the drill I used as a guide:
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This is how I eyeballed the angle. If the drills I'm sharpening are bigger, I bet the more accurate I will be according to the guide. With this small drill, it's basically touch and go. It takes a few swipes to get her centered ( the cutting edge that is.)
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Here's all the holes I drilled before the video I'll show you. It stayed sharp. I wasn't getting perfect curls of metal, I was getting bits. But she bit right in and felt sharp to me. Certainly sharper than it was before I broke the fawker because it was so damned slow!
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Here's the shape of the hole. Yes, it walked on this one because I was holding the drill at arm's length, and let's face it, this old porter cable cordless has a pretty shaky chuck. I got it for cheap though.
When I use a center punch before hand, it doesn't walk, and in fact it doesn't even shimmy and shake like a dull bit will.
When I use a center punch before hand, it doesn't walk, and in fact it doesn't even shimmy and shake like a dull bit will.
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What's that mean exactly?Starslope said:Whoa... amazing what holiday time off can to do some people
I can't get away with that on this soft metal. If I did I'd twist this tiny drill in half. I experimented a little bit and had it engage the clutch of this cordless drill holder. So like I said, I went WAY conservative.ForestCam said:I like my angle flatter, sure they walk more but it's nice getting that one peice shaving.
On mild stock or even hard steel, I would go aggressive.
Actually, with two hands I can get one shaving. I just tried.ForestCam said:I like my angle flatter, sure they walk more but it's nice getting that one peice shaving.
If you can get one piece shavings, I have to ask, why? You don't have to do shit to sharpen on the grinder. I imagine with the DD there's SOME type of setup, no matter how simple. At least, you have to plug it in. My grinder is always sitting in the same spot.ForestCam said:Two things I did learn from my dad, how to sharpen a chisel and sharpening drill bits.
Used my brother's Drill Dr. once and all I gotta say is I WANT ONE!:laughing:
That's cool, if I ever have a chance I will pick up a used DD 750.
Here's what I did on a hardened lawnmower blade. I'm very very happy with the results. Usually, this would take me all day.
I can go anywhere and do this as well. Sorta like stick welding, I'm glad I learned this before getting accustomed to a DD.
Here's what I did on a hardened lawnmower blade. I'm very very happy with the results. Usually, this would take me all day.
I can go anywhere and do this as well. Sorta like stick welding, I'm glad I learned this before getting accustomed to a DD.
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I was contemplating buying a DD, and adding it to my considerable tools list.... as in, this is $140 further away from my T/A 185TSW. Not anymore, this puts me a few weeks closer to my TIG welder! :bounce: :laughing:ForestCam said:
Cool beans!
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Drill Doctor 750SPK $139.99 w/free shipping @Amazon plus there's a $10 mail in rebate!
Hmmmm...Sleggtools.com has the same model with the left hand chuck added for $10 more....desisions desisions.....
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As a matter of fact, I haven't seen a DD in use in person, but I've read the tech articles. At this point, I consider one a waste of money and shelf space. I'll qualify that because like I said I haven't used one. But at this point, I don't NEED one!
Thank you! That totally confirms what I found, in my 'secret' paragraph. As long as you get them both the same, the hole will be perfectly round, and so tight the twist drill will actually 'pop' out when you pull it out.toryranger said:
I've heard like you say: Machinists would rather sharpen their own than use a machine, unless it was neccessary. That's where I want to be!
Now getting catalogs is a dangerous thing. I don't know jack about the machinery world, but I'm learning! I learned you can just get sick with this drill sharpening, and that the DD is an amazing little device to put split points on drills for $140!
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Nope, don't need it. I just drilled a hole and tapped it out, just to see. No problem. If I'm having a problem with precision above that, I'll go buy a brand-new bit.Supergper said:
the only reason you say you dont NEED a DD is cause you have never used one...once you use one you will agree with everyone else that has and say its a must
I love mine...get a perfect edge without heating the bit and I can choose what angle I want...and if I want to sharpen split points then I can do that...I wouldn;t go without a DD
PBB, home of Bling-bling, get all the best, every tool for every possible application
:flipoff2:It's funny that the old hands got by without all the crap that is supposedly 'necessary' if you listen to this forum.
*edit* Besides that, this thread is about bench grinder twist drill sharpening, not an ad for the Drill Doctor, thanks. BillaVista already wrote an excellent article about the Drill Doctor here. I can't imagine you have much to add besides testimonials, which don't belong in the tech forum but in Chit-chat. :flipoff2: So thanky anyway.
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