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I think he was talking about the 2.5 ton cab firewall.
 

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wow, I just found pirate 4x4 and you thread was first.... what an adventure, major cool rig..

Really cool about your grandpa, I would love to just sail off like that but being land locked pretty much my whole life I would have to learn to sail, besides ocean storms would scare the shit out of me and I live and was raised in tornado alley.. Man I lost my grandfather in 1991 still feels like yesterday, cherish the time spent with him.

For what it is worth I think white is the perfect base coat... so many options from there... Your attention to detail is amazing and I respect that...

really cool build.... I would love to design and fabricate for a living, I am an A&P flight mechanic among other things....

just felt like I had to say great job after reading all the way to the end...

thank you
 

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Discussion Starter #723
I think he was talking about the 2.5 ton cab firewall.
hah! I'm sure you're right. Forgot all about the cab. Think I'm going to mount some kind of a heater inside the cab, under the passenger-side of the dash, sort of like the A3's, instead of in the engine compartment like the A2's. Also going to try to maintain a sealed firewall, instead of passing things through gaping holes. So will punch through wherever I end up needing to, and will use grommets and/or bulkhead connectors.
 

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Yeah, a little self contained unit would work fine and since the military ones looked like an afterthought, even the boxy aftermarket heaters look like they belong there, lol. One of the little Mojave heaters might not be able to keep up with the air leaks around the doors and windows but maybe one of the larger Vintage Air or Summit Racing heaters would work. I'm sure you have seen the guys over on SS using the HMMWV RedBall heat and A/C units, which would be nice, but are pricey.
 

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Take a look at the heater from a 68 or so Ford pickup everything is in the unit only penetration IIRC is the waterlines plus it is all cable operated no vacuum lines to mess with.
 

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Cool project. I really enjoyed reading about your grandpa, def a bad ass. Sailboat racing has pretty much been my main hobby for the past few years. Its addicting... Hard to imagine doing those ocean passages in the the time before GPS and modern instruments!

Anyway, donno if its any help, but the way those shitters work on sailboats currently is water is pumped in through the hull to fill the bowl and the selector valve is flipped and it sort of washes/flushes/vacs it down the hole to the holding tank. You repeat till its clean. If you check out a boat store like West Marine they may be able to order you a rebuild kit.

I will also second that they stink... On a sailboat using the head is a secondary option at best lol
 

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Discussion Starter #727
Yeah, a little self contained unit would work fine and since the military ones looked like an afterthought, even the boxy aftermarket heaters look like they belong there, lol. One of the little Mojave heaters might not be able to keep up with the air leaks around the doors and windows but maybe one of the larger Vintage Air or Summit Racing heaters would work. I'm sure you have seen the guys over on SS using the HMMWV RedBall heat and A/C units, which would be nice, but are pricey.
Think you mean Reddot? Have got one of their heat/AC units in the motorhome box, and it has ducting that I can route forward into the cab, but would like to have a self-contained heater in the truck as well.
Take a look at the heater from a 68 or so Ford pickup everything is in the unit only penetration IIRC is the waterlines plus it is all cable operated no vacuum lines to mess with.
Thanks. Open to suggestion here. Want to be able to run on 24V though.
Cool project. I really enjoyed reading about your grandpa, def a bad ass. Sailboat racing has pretty much been my main hobby for the past few years. Its addicting... Hard to imagine doing those ocean passages in the the time before GPS and modern instruments!

Anyway, donno if its any help, but the way those shitters work on sailboats currently is water is pumped in through the hull to fill the bowl and the selector valve is flipped and it sort of washes/flushes/vacs it down the hole to the holding tank. You repeat till its clean. If you check out a boat store like West Marine they may be able to order you a rebuild kit.

I will also second that they stink... On a sailboat using the head is a secondary option at best lol
Thanks. Haven't made time to look into how the plumbing on these marine toilets actually works yet, but don't imagine that rebuilding them will be too much trouble. Little bit concerned about the stink though. Maybe something I can reduce with additional plumbing or something? Hmmm, gonna have to figure something out.
 

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Yeah, I meant Reddot, not sure why I typed Redball. Must have been thinking about hip waders or something, lol. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #731 (Edited)
Posted something a few days ago about how I've been working on a bunch of other projects. Here are a few pictures of some of the stuff I've been working on.

















 

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Discussion Starter #734
No Chris, haven't heard from him in a while but Robo-Boogie has blown-out both diffs in the little red Tacoma, so we'll need to get something figured out.
 

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Discussion Starter #736
Just ordered a 12/24 dual alternator kit from Wolverine Technologies, with the optional 220 amp 12V alternator upgrade. Wasn't sure if I'd end up building my own mounts or buying something, but decided to spend my time working on other parts of this motorhome conversion. Tim also told me that they're using HD truck alternators instead of the smaller car alternators, and they have to make custom shafts in order to clear the radiator fan. Sounds like they've got it all figured out.
Well shit. Haven't been able to reach Wolverine Tech since I talked to Tim a month ago. He's not answering the phone, his voicemail is full and email are bouncing-back. Quick search on steelsoldiers revealed that this seems to be business-as-usual over there. So looks like I'm going to have to design/make my own alternator mounts. No big deal. Just one more thing to do. Would appreciate some help with regards to sourcing alternators though. Need a 12V alternator, the bigger the better, and from what Tim told me, that 220-amp HD truck alternator is about as big as you can get at any kind of reasonable price. What's the deal with the 'heavy-duty' alternators anyway? He stressed that the alternators they're using are not the regular car-sized Delco alternators, but that they're much more robust units made for medium-duty trucks. Anything to that? Would also like to replace the stock 60-amp 24V unit with a modern alternator while I'm at it.
 

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I have a Leece Neville on mine, they are just plain old big. Takes the heat and the load much better, cheap, find them anywhere, they are designed to run harder longer.

For heaters check out Heatercraft.
 

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I have a Leece Neville on mine, they are just plain old big. Takes the heat and the load much better, cheap, find them anywhere, they are designed to run harder longer.

For heaters check out Heatercraft.
x2 on the leece neville unit.

I have one as well.
Factory rebuilds went to 160A, parts are easy and cheap to come by. Real popular with ambulances and MDT trucks. Hell, you can get a new one at a uhaul location.

 

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Discussion Starter #739
Thanks guys, will look into those. Would like to go bigger than 160-amps, but at what expense...
 

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Discussion Starter #740
If I'm going to build custom alternator mounts, might end up making custom pulleys for the crank and waterpump so that I can convert over to a serpentine belt setup (stock is double V-belts). The Wolverine Tech setup only runs one belt to each alternator, and the alternator pulley shafts run real close to the radiator fan, even after they're machined to create a little more clearance. Making custom pulleys might also make a little more room between the fan and the radiator. That might make it possible to squeeze a fan clutch in there if I can make the pulley setup any shorter. If that doesn't work out, am still really liking the idea of making some kind of remote clutch assembly. Have never seen anything like that done before, but seems like it would be pretty easy to pull-off and I can't think of any reason why it wouldn't work. Would completely eliminate the space constraints, and then I could put a pneumatic clutch on there, or whatever I wanted.
 
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