Pirate 4x4 banner

61 - 80 of 1410 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
I don't have room for a couch/bed set up so am going to graft a flip pac or maggiolina to the roof.

I'm looking at the same size shower drain and curious how you put the toilet in there.

I should add that I have long way to go, I have to get it running which means finishing the 6bt, cucv axles and brakes.

Sent from my SPH-M900 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,951 Posts
Discussion Starter #63
I don't have room for a couch/bed set up so am going to graft a flip pac or maggiolina to the roof.

I'm looking at the same size shower drain and curious how you put the toilet in there.

I should add that I have long way to go, I have to get it running which means finishing the 6bt, cucv axles and brakes.
What about a hard-sided pop-up (like an Alaskan Camper), or slide-outs? A slide-out to the rear wouldn't be too difficult. That's how I'm planning on building my new trailer.

I'm using a Thetford Electra Magic toilet. Decided to go this route after doing a ton of research (even explored the idea of incinerating waste). This toilet separates liquid and solid waste, so the same water can be reused to flush the toilet multiple times. Water conservation is something that I've given a lot of thought to, and will be collecting rainwater, recycling grey water, etc. The Electra Magic toiler has a small holding tank built into it, and I'm going to pump waste from that through a Shurflo macerator, then to one of two holding tanks. Alternating between the two tanks, I'll be filling one while the other is composting. The goal is to avoid ever having to visit a dump station.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,951 Posts
Discussion Starter #64
The choice between building a military or a civilian truck really came down to whether I wanted to 'civilize' a military truck or beef-up a civilian truck. I've already explained why I found these deuces so appealing, and I wasn't unaware of the downsides. These big old trucks are loud and slow and the ride-quality is... not great. So before committing myself to building on this platform, I looked into each of these problems and determined that I wouldn't have much trouble modifying mah deuce to make life on the road a little more pleasant.

But before I get into these modifications, I want to say that I put more than 4,000 miles on it before making any changes and didn't find it to be anywhere near as unbearable as most people make these vehicles out to be. Sure there were springs poking through the driver's seat and sometime I felt like my teeth were going to rattle out of my head and there was a warning sticker on the passenger's side door that said "WARNING: hearing protection required for driver & co-driver" and the top-speed is only about 55mph, but you know what? I absolutely LOVE driving this thing. Might just be that my perspective is out-of-wack, but I didn't mind it a bit. Not in stock form, and definitely not after I made some improvements.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,951 Posts
Discussion Starter #65 (Edited)
muffler

First item on the list was to add some sort of muffler. I don't know why these trucks were not equipped with any sort of mufflers in the first place, but the exhaust exits right above the windshield on the passenger's side of the truck, so it resonates through the whole cab. In any case, I figured that adding a muffler would be an easy way to tame the drone. Started by searching on steelsoldiers.com and saw that most guys were using a Walker muffler (part number 21470). Not one to follow the crowd, I proceeded to look at all the alternatives and in the end, came right back to where I started. The guys on SS really know their stuff, and had already figured the muffler thing out. SO I ordered one of the Walker mufflers and spliced it into the exhaust stack. Thought about re-routing it to dump in another location, but with all the doors and windows, I think the stock exhaust configuration might be the best choice.

The Walker muffler is 3.5" diameter in/out, which allows it to slip over the 3.25" diameter exhaust tubing perfectly. The overall diameter of the muffler is 7", the body length is 30" and the overall length is 38". The larger diameter of the muffler meant that I would need to make a new mount for the exhaust and modify the mirror mounts for clearance. Was able to modify and reuse parts in both cases though, so there was almost no fabrication required. This was a quick and easy cut/weld project and made a measurable difference as far as the noise that's transmitted into the cab. Still wear earplugs on long drives, but no longer consider them mandatory for shorter trips.



















 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,951 Posts
Discussion Starter #67 (Edited)
turbo

Next up was the turbo. Mah deuce was equipped with the coveted 'whistler' turbo, officially designated as a C model turbo. For some reason people love these things. The reason why beyond me. The novelty of that shrill whistle wore off almost immediately, so when I found out that the later-model D-series turbos were quieter AND made more power I started looking for one. Was prepared to pay, but it seems there's no shortage of people looking to trade their D-series turbos for whistlers. Responded to this post made by someone looking to trade a brand new D-series turbo and it was a done-deal.

Really did look almost brand new when I opened up the box, but was less-than-happy when I looked inside and saw that the turbo was full of packing pellets. Had read about a turbo-porting service that one of the members on steelsoldiers provided, and this seemed like it would be a good time to go ahead and have that done. Ken provides this service as a favor to fellow enthusiasts more than as any sort of money-making proposition, so the price was very reasonable. Haven't put more than 50 miles on mah deuce since installing it, and made too many other changes at the same time to be able to say whether or not it made any difference performance-wise, but it's a lot quieter and that's what I was really after.

(new D-series turbo / old C-series turbo)


(new D-series turbo / old C-series turbo)


(ported intake)


(ported exhaust)


(new D-series turbo installed)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,951 Posts
Discussion Starter #68
These two things alone (muffler + turbo) made a huge difference. Still going to insulate the new cab and do a few more things to help with the heat and noise, and expect to be able to hold a conversation at a normal volume when it's all said and done.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,951 Posts
Discussion Starter #69
wheels/tires

Spent a bunch of time researching wheels and tires, considering 1) speed, 2) ride-quality, 3) payload, 4) traction, 5) fuel economy, and 6) price. It was only the fact that my truck was originally equipped with archaic bias-ply NDT tires that made it possible for me to improve on ALL these things at once.

Knew that I wanted to stick with 20" wheels so that I could take advantage of all the cheap military surplus tires. If I was planning to travel much internationally, I would probably switch over to 10-lug hubs and 22.5" rims, but that's not a big concern of mine right now. But for anybody that might be thinking along those lines, Ouverson said they're able/willing to custom-make their rockwell hubs with a 10-lug patter, and there's a SS member working on custom 10-lug adapters.

After looking at all the different sizes and types of tires that have been used on these trucks, I settled on the 11.00-series Firestone T831's as the ideal tire for this application. Was tempted to go with the larger 395/15.5's, but managed to restrain myself. The T831's are 43.5" in diameter, where the stock 9.00 NDT's were about 39.5" tall. Figured this would give me a little more topend without bogging the truck down too much.

The T831's are rated at 7,390lbs in a single-tire configuration, which is more than the NDT's were rated for in a dual-tire configuration. The load rating and the reduction in weight / rolling resistance made dropping the duals and run singles all the way around seem like an obvious choice. The only benefit I could see to having all that extra rubber on the ground was all the extra built-in spares. I was actually pretty concerned about that given some of the places I'm likely to end up traveling, but I think I figured out a way around that problem. I kept an eye on the military surplus auctions, and ended up buying twelve T831's that were all practically brand new and they cost me less than $200ea.

Running single T831's would prove to be a bit of a challenge though, when it came time to find wheels to mount them on. My choices were very limited, due to the narrow width of these tires and specified 8" rim width. The stock rims were very close to the right width, but the track-width would have been WAY too narrow if I ran them as singles and if I ran them to the outside the front/rear axles wouldn't track. The fact that these 2.5-ton rockwells have kind of an odd six-lug pattern wasn't helping matters, and I couldn't afford to have custom wheels made. There is a Canadian version of the deuce that was equipped with combat-style bead-locked wheels and 11.00 series singles, and those are available at pretty reasonable prices. But they still have a pretty narrow track-width, so I decided to go another route.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14,457 Posts
But before I get into these modifications, I want to say that I put more than 4,000 miles on it before making any changes and didn't find it to be anywhere near as unbearable as most people make these vehicles out to be. ... but you know what? I absolutely LOVE driving this thing. Might just be that my perspective is out-of-wack, but I didn't mind it a bit. Not in stock form, and definitely not after I made some improvements.
I'm thinking I better apologize in advance if anyone related to me ever shows up and kicks you in the nads... I've always loved the Deuce but have also always talked myself out of the idea of owning one as being totally impracticable - much to the relief of those related to me. You're being a baaaddd influence here... :laughing:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,459 Posts
I read all this by 10:05. Its 10:50.

.MOAR!!!!!!
.MOAR!!!!!!
.MOOOOAAAARRRRR!!!!!!!
please?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,951 Posts
Discussion Starter #72
I'm thinking I better apologize in advance if anyone related to me ever shows up and kicks you in the nads... I've always loved the Deuce but have also always talked myself out of the idea of owning one as being totally impracticable - much to the relief of those related to me. You're being a baaaddd influence here... :laughing:
These things are cheap enough that you can't afford NOT to own one. Or two or ten. There's a deuce for every occasion. If I wasn't planning on living in mine fulltime I'd have just built a simple camper by throwing my old 10ft Alaskan Camper on the back of a regular deuce with a cargo bed. Would happily drive one as a tow-rig. Hell, I'm seeing that it could actually make a viable wheeler if it was built right (bobbed, linked, etc.). Not much bigger than a Jeep when you strip it down to the essentials. Possibilities are endless. I am not any sort of military vehicle enthusiast by nature, but I'm fully infatuated with these things.

I read all this by 10:05. Its 10:50.

.MOAR!!!!!!
.MOAR!!!!!!
.MOOOOAAAARRRRR!!!!!!!
please?
Working on it. Please stand by.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,459 Posts
These things are cheap enough that you can't afford NOT to own one. Or two or ten. There's a deuce for every occasion. If I wasn't planning on living in mine fulltime I'd have just built a simple camper by throwing my old 10ft Alaskan Camper on the back of a regular deuce with a cargo bed. Would happily drive one as a tow-rig. Hell, I'm seeing that it could actually make a viable wheeler if it was built right (bobbed, linked, etc.). Not much bigger than a Jeep when you strip it down to the essentials. Possibilities are endless. I am not any sort of military vehicle enthusiast by nature, but I'm fully infatuated with these things.


Working on it. Please stand by.
Me too! I mean, you can get one from $100 Man for like $6k bobbed and everything. And they are DIRT simple to work on. Really, of you wanted to, you could bob it, and sell the second rear axle for more build funds, or keep it for spare parts. The parts on these trucks do not wear out as fast as even a 1 ton truck, and those are decently tough! And don't even get me STARTED about Ouverson parts, 5.9 and 8.3 liter Cummins swaps, 7.2L Caterpillar swaps, HEMMT wheels...

SOO MUCH WANT!!!!.

Oh, and you are doing a GREAT job with this build thread. Keep up the good work, and by Jove, keep us posted!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,951 Posts
Discussion Starter #74 (Edited)
wheels/tires

What I ended up doing for wheels is this the following, and it's not anything that I thought of on my own. Somewhere on steelsoldiers I read about it being possible to flip the center-sections in the older deuce wheels that were riveted together. All the details are posted here, but only members can view images so I'll cut/paste.


gringeltaube created these drawings that he posted on SS, comparing the geometry between a stock wheel and one that has had the center-section flipped.












Rounded-up a bunch of old riveted wheels, which was a bit of a hunt, because they were used on the older deuces but the newer wheels are all welded. Started blowing-out the rivets with a cutting torch. It's been suggested that there are a bunch of other (better?) ways I could have done this, but I was just working with the tools I had and everything came out OK in the end. This step took me about 1/2hr per wheel.





 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,951 Posts
Discussion Starter #75 (Edited)
wheels/tires

I used an angle-grinder to knock-off the slag and take off the paint where I had to weld-up the rivet holes, then filled the holes and ground all the welds down. This was pretty time-consuming.




Then I mounted the center-sections to one of the axles on mah deuce, which made a handy fixture to hold the center-sections while I trimmed an inch off the lip of each one. Used a square and a sharpie pen to mark a line 1" in from the lip, all the way around the wheel. Then I used a 4.5" grinder with a cutoff wheel to remove that ring (shown laying up against the center-section). I cut it freehand, but rotated the hub/wheel as I cut, to keep it in a comfortable position. Did this because I wanted to maximize the backspacing by welding the flipped center-sections as close to the outer lips of the wheels as possible.




Backspacing ended up right at 6", exactly where gringeltaube said it would be. That guy really knows his stuff.




This is how I checked to make sure the wheels ran true. Hammered on 'em until I got them where they needed to be, then tacked them into place. Was able to get them all within 1/8" (and most within 1/16"), which seems to be a better than the runout on an average stock rim off one of these trucks.




I only welded-up one wheel at first, just to see how it would go. Removed it from the axle to be welded, and welded that first one on the the frontside and the backside of the center-section. Then mounted it back on the axle to make sure the welding hand't affected the runout (it was fine). But when I posted pics on SS, gringeltaube commented that it might be a bad idea to weld on the backside of the center-sections. Welding in that nice deep V sure felt right, but I what he was saying made sense so I started a thread on pirate to ask about that. Brighter minds prevailed and convinced me that I should only weld on the outside of the center-sections. Glad I had only built one wheel at that point, and I got an extra for exactly that reason.



 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,951 Posts
Discussion Starter #76 (Edited)
wheels/tires

This is what the first wheel looked like with one of the new tires mounted.










(old wheel/tire combo for reference)


 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,951 Posts
Discussion Starter #77
I was curious about the scrub radius even though I couldn't really do anything about it. If I was having custom wheels built I might have gone with something closer to 7-8" of backspacing, but 6" was all I could get and I was pretty happy with that (especially for the price). So I posted on pirate, but once again gringeltaube came through.

I had asked him:
jesusgatos said:
Do you happen to know what the distance from the center of the u-joint to the wheel-mounting surface is gringeltaube? What about the kingpin inclination angle?
To which he replied:
gringeltaube said:
9.6" and 8º, respectively.
Scrub radius in your case should be around 2 3/4"

G.
Thanks again G!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,951 Posts
Discussion Starter #78
After assembling my 'practice' wheel, I realized that I should be truing the wheels off of the lip where the rings would seat. Worked out much better that way. All the finished wheels run very true.




After tack-welding the center-sections into place and re-checking the fit, I welded 'em up (on the outside of the flange only).




I decided that I wanted to grind-out all the welds, so I went at them with a sanding disc on a 4.5" angle grinder.




Then I went back and filled in the low spots.




This is what they looked like after I finished grinding out all the welds. Not perfect, but then, nothing is on these old trucks.



 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,951 Posts
Discussion Starter #79
Then I hauled all those wheels down to Agri Trade School in Salinas, where Tom sand-blasted them for me.




I was going to prime/paint them myself, but fortunately, a buddy of mine told me that I could get them powder-coated at Les Schwab for $25 before I bought paint. And that INCLUDES sandblasting. Dangit. Wasted a little bit of money there, but it worked out alright in the end. Dropped my wheels off with the guys at the Les Schwab up in Fremont.




They obviously have to send the wheels out for powder-coating, so it takes about a week. For $25/wheel, I wasn't complaining though. This is what they looked like when I came back to pick them up.




I went ahead and had them order new tubes and flaps for me. I could have mounted them myself, but I was already there and they do a LOT of work on big trucks. Man, they whipped these things out. It was cool to see how it should be done.











 
61 - 80 of 1410 Posts
Top