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Discussion Starter #121 (Edited)
transfer-case & towbar

Was SO excited to take Mah Deuce out for a drive after all the work I'd done. All that maintenance, new wheels and tires, etc. It was awesome! Until it broke. Only a few miles into the test-drive, the transfer-case started screeching and howling. Forced me to come to a complete stop, grinding in protest to any type of forward motion. Got under the truck and assessed the situation and it was the transfer-case. Something was wrong with it. Wasn't about to have mah deuce towed home, as that would have cost more than replacing any parts I might have to replace. So I put it into low-range and drove home at about 5-10mph. Made it, but it hasn't moved since. Need to buy another air-shift transfer-case. Luckily I can get a brand new surplus unit for about $800, so I'm not complaining. That's the risk you take buying used parts. May well have been something I messed-up when I replaced the seals. I honestly don't know.


Funny coincidence, the guy that I bought that transfer-case from also gave me a great deal on a towbar. haha. No joke.




Also got the towbar 'feet' and a set of chain-wrap axle-clamps that will let me hook that towbar up to all kinds of things. I'll take a picture of those. They're really neat.
 

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Don't chop up a perfectly good towbar just to make an A frame. You can easily make the end for an A-frame without wasting a valuable towbar.
 

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Discussion Starter #124
Don't worry. Just found some extra short-side legs. No complete/useful towbars will be harmed in the making of this A-frame hoist.
 

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I can't believe that happened with the tcase? Oh wait yes I can because it happened to me with a 360 and has probably happened to all of us.

I'm curious to see how this centrifuge oil cleaner works. It looks like the same model is for a 6bt, how much is it?

How hub steps came out well, so you take cad drawings to a shop and have them laser cut?

Will there be more updates or are you dead in the water with the tcase?

Sent from my SPH-M900 using Tapatalk
 

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Good deal ont he towbar parts. I know how desired they are over on SS. :D

Simca and Fiat ran centrifuge oil filters for many years with limited success. I would be wary as all the designs I have seen use a bypass that allows unfiltered oil to go to the engine in an effort to preserve normal oil flow and pressure. Only a percentage of the oil gets filtered as it reaches the filter, much like the old bypass filter systems from the '50s on back. If this unit works in conjunction with the normal filter system, I say go for it as long as it does not have an adverse effect on flow and pressure. If it replaces the stock filters, I would be very careful with that new engine. Just my .02
 

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Discussion Starter #127
I can't believe that happened with the tcase? Oh wait yes I can because it happened to me with a 360 and has probably happened to all of us.

I'm curious to see how this centrifuge oil cleaner works. It looks like the same model is for a 6bt, how much is it?

How hub steps came out well, so you take cad drawings to a shop and have them laser cut?

Will there be more updates or are you dead in the water with the tcase?
No, the Cummins 6BT uses a smaller one. Spinner lists the price for your application here.

Good deal ont he towbar parts. I know how desired they are over on SS. :D

Simca and Fiat ran centrifuge oil filters for many years with limited success. I would be wary as all the designs I have seen use a bypass that allows unfiltered oil to go to the engine in an effort to preserve normal oil flow and pressure. Only a percentage of the oil gets filtered as it reaches the filter, much like the old bypass filter systems from the '50s on back. If this unit works in conjunction with the normal filter system, I say go for it as long as it does not have an adverse effect on flow and pressure. If it replaces the stock filters, I would be very careful with that new engine. Just my .02
After I bought that first towbar, I stumbled onto a treasure-trove of old military parts. An old collector had recently passed away and his family hired a guy I knew to dispose of everything. Was a real shame actually. A lot of good stuff got scrapped. But I was able to save a bunch of towbars and some other misc. parts. Sent those out to SS members all over the country.

The Spinner centrifuge is a bypass filter, meant to be run in addition to the stock oil filtration system. But I'm going to replace the stock oil filter canisters with better filters too.
 

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Discussion Starter #128
Will there be more updates or are you dead in the water with the tcase?
Sorry, I completely missed this. NO! Would be kind of ridiculous if I let a little thing like a transfer-case bring this project to a screeching halt, eh? Replacing the transfer-case just hasn't been much of a priority because there's no bodywork on the truck right now (getting painted), I'm about to start the engine-swap, and just ripped out the stock steering and braking systems (full-hydro steering & HydraMax brakes in the works). So the mah deuce isn't going anywhere anytime soon.
 

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This is what the Tempurpedic mattress looks like after I cut it out of the casing. Kind of disappointing actually, that only half of it is really tempur material. The bottom half is just regular old mattress foam. I wouldn't have bought one of these mattresses for this project, but already had one, so...

BTW - there is a custom mattress builder just north of Seattle who makes real custom latex foam mattresses made to order, thickness, size, shape, whatever. Much better than Tempurpedic.
 

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Discussion Starter #130
BTW - there is a custom mattress builder just north of Seattle who makes real custom latex foam mattresses made to order, thickness, size, shape, whatever. Much better than Tempurpedic.
Right on. Good to have options. Thanks for posting. My only complaints about the Tempurpedic mattress are: 1) they retain a lot of heat, and 2) they are very sensitive to temperature (stiff when cold, spongey when hot). Used it because I had it. Will see how this works out.
 

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awesome project!

live the dream man, i wish i had the time and was able to travel.

where are you storing the guns?
 

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Discussion Starter #132
Guns? I don't have any guns...




(in the cabinet behind the couch and in a safe under the bed)
 

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What I ended up doing for wheels is this the following, and it's not anything that I thought of on my own. Somewhere on steelsoldiers I read about it being possible to flip the center-sections in the older deuce wheels that were riveted together. All the details are posted here, but only members can view images so I'll cut/paste.
One more comment; when you mess with the offset of the wheels you can easily put a lot more load on the bearings. Generally most vehicles are designed such that the centerline of the wheel is over the bearings so that the load on the bearings is correct.

I typically see this where people drastically change the offset on wheels, either by reversing them (if they can) or by buying wheels with a lot more offset.

From looking at your drawings I can't quite make out which is stock and which is mod (I think I know which is which) but then you flipped some of the flanges around and so on, so I am not quite sure where you wound up when finished (not to mention I am not sure where the bearings need to take their load, or how negative offset affects them, or the fact that you went to singles v. duals).

Also, you are probably carrying a lot less weight than the vehicle is rated for you will probably be fine, but I just thought I would mention it because this is something that a lot of people gloss over and then later wonder why their wheel bearings are FUBAR.
 

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Discussion Starter #134 (Edited)
One more comment; when you mess with the offset of the wheels you can easily put a lot more load on the bearings. Generally most vehicles are designed such that the centerline of the wheel is over the bearings so that the load on the bearings is correct.

I typically see this where people drastically change the offset on wheels, either by reversing them (if they can) or by buying wheels with a lot more offset.

From looking at your drawings I can't quite make out which is stock and which is mod (I think I know which is which) but then you flipped some of the flanges around and so on, so I am not quite sure where you wound up when finished (not to mention I am not sure where the bearings need to take their load, or how negative offset affects them, or the fact that you went to singles v. duals).

Also, you are probably carrying a lot less weight than the vehicle is rated for you will probably be fine, but I just thought I would mention it because this is something that a lot of people gloss over and then later wonder why their wheel bearings are FUBAR.
Thanks, but I did consider that. The scrub radius is only 2.75", which I think is pretty reasonable, and the rear hubs are designed to be flipped like that.
 

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Thanks, but I did consider that. The scrub radius is only 2.75", which I think is pretty reasonable, and the rear hubs are designed to be flipped like that.
Okay. I wasn't referring to the alignment issues with regards to steering, but rather the issues with bearings. But if you say you took it into account and that the hubs are designed for it, then I will assume you know what you are doing - especially since you surely know a lot more about these trucks than I do.

My comment was more a cautionary note for others with regards to the practice in general; just something I saw a lot of in my years working on rigs, especially lighter rigs with semi-floating axles and such; my first job as a teenager working in a VW/Porsche/Audi shop as a grease monkey, we saw a lot of this on Bugs especially, and later when I got into 4 wheeling I saw it a lot on various light trucks.

Heavier trucks, ag equipment (tractors and such) and industrial equipment, what I eventually got into before I quit, usually has a lot more versatility and extra robustness built into it. Light pickups like a half ton pickup or Jeep much less so.

One of the reasons I was thinking of it was I was also thinking about going to singles on my Dodge 3500 flat bed, but once I added up the weight I was going to put on it I decided to stick with duals to keep the wider footprint and load carry capacity.

My build (in the planning stage) is kind of on the other side of the line; I wanted a lighter truck with more highway speed that would get me to the trailhead. Interestingly, my truck's physical length, including the 12'x8' bed, is almost the same as yours, but it is a smaller truck in weight and carrying capacity, so I am going to have to really watch the weight.
 

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Discussion Starter #136 (Edited)
Yupyup, I hear you. Here's a link for anybody that doesn't know what scrub radius is. I should have included that in my first reply. From the pictures and explanation it should be clear how the amount of offset/backspacing on a wheel can affect the axle bearings. On the rear axles it's more a matter of simple leverage, but like I said, these axles were designed to have the hubs flipped to run single or dual tires. Not worried about bearing longevity in this vehicle at all.
 

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thats a very cool project. ill definitely be following along.

Garrett
 

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Great thread, I'm responding mostly to subscribe but thought I'd comment on the manuals. When I was in the Army in the '70s, the manuals came in series'. The XXXXX-10 was the first level maintenance manual. They were designed for the company level mechanic to do their level of maintenance. The manuals progressed to -20, -30, etc as the echelon of maintenance rose. The -10 was the one I used most, even though I was a mere operator and they were, as you stated, totally complete with their explainations of processes, but were written to a high school reading level The Army finally realized that their new all volunteer recruits only averaged about a sixth grade reading level. They confiscated all the -10s they could find (we hid them) and started issuing -5s to the operator. They came complete with cartoon caracters, Connie Rod and Torqem McGurk, to illustrate the various processes. It was ridiculous and seriously limited the quality of work that the operator could perform before sending the vehicle to the mechanics or higher for maintenance. On as side note, the -5s didn't show how to adjust governors as the -20 did. That was a handy item for performance mods!
 

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Discussion Starter #139
Great thread, I'm responding mostly to subscribe but thought I'd comment on the manuals. When I was in the Army in the '70s, the manuals came in series'. The XXXXX-10 was the first level maintenance manual. They were designed for the company level mechanic to do their level of maintenance. The manuals progressed to -20, -30, etc as the echelon of maintenance rose. The -10 was the one I used most, even though I was a mere operator and they were, as you stated, totally complete with their explainations of processes, but were written to a high school reading level The Army finally realized that their new all volunteer recruits only averaged about a sixth grade reading level. They confiscated all the -10s they could find (we hid them) and started issuing -5s to the operator. They came complete with cartoon caracters, Connie Rod and Torqem McGurk, to illustrate the various processes. It was ridiculous and seriously limited the quality of work that the operator could perform before sending the vehicle to the mechanics or higher for maintenance. On as side note, the -5s didn't show how to adjust governors as the -20 did. That was a handy item for performance mods!
That's really funny. I know just what you're talking about.

 

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Discussion Starter #140
index

Been working on putting together an index, organized by topic, with links and sources.
 
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