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Op asked how to fix what he already had. You told him everything already done was wrong and hadn’t been done in years. Lies in all accounts


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Yes, everything already done is wrong. He can fix what he has quite easily which will also fix the steering as a result so less parts and compromises will be required for a better solution. Yes it was done years ago and is an outdated solution to a problem that doesn’t exist. Any tyre size that’s functional on a stock axled Samurai can be run sprung under with a more stable result that drives better on and off highway.

Of course this is just lies though. Especially the one where he can keep nearly everything he has and just rework it to work better for his stated application. It’s going to need springs, shackles and a drag link anyway. The difference is $20 worth of spring perches.

At least it was done badly so it’s easy to reverse. If it had been done well it’s be a nightmare to reverse.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
+1 for shorter shackles and go back to spring under. Maybe get some new ~2" lift springs if you need a little more clearance. Spring over with flat springs sucks.

Also, stick with 31s or max 32s unless you want to beef up the axles.


Thank you. What brand springs do you recommend? I didn’t know the limits of the stock axles. Plus I already was planning on getting shorter shackles.

He needs to keep the shackles and needs the 33 to go on the big rocks and needs to keep the spring over as well... he just wants to rebuild his steering......apparently...

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Holy shit, never did I say I wanted to keep the shackles that long. I get it go back to spua. Like I asked above what springs and where to get them?


So, spua with new perches and 2” lift springs. All new tie rods, proper bump stops and correct springs. Keep with the 31” tires and look into a locker for the rear.
 

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Old man emu springs will provide the best ride. You’ll probably want some bumpstop spacing and to hammer some seams flat to clear 31’s but the end result will be a nice driving car.

I’d delete the swaybar and run old man emu shocks.

Check there are crush sleeves installed on the rear two steering box bolts. You’ll want to reverse the bolts or trim the down in any case- the tire will likely catch them.
 

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Holy shit, never did I say I wanted to keep the shackles that long. I get it go back to spua. Like I asked above what springs and where to get them?
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My bad I must have read what you typed ..

I get what your saying. But it's already spring over and huge shackles.


I'm just trying to work with what I got.

The whole steering setup is shot so why not keep what I have and upgrade the steering.
 

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Shorter shackles and a set of rancho 1.5 inch leaf springs along with a proper highsteer setup would most likely remedy most if not all your issues while keeping close to the same ride height l. The steering currently will be inducing bumpsteer which is most likely magnified by those longer shackles. Which is why you feel it needs a track bar in its current setup.


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You also stated you would like to step up to 33s possibly if that is the case I would recommend getting a set of rear springs for the front.

Installing them in the front with the rear hanger mounting hole moved back will give you a longer spring that will give a smoother ride while moving the front axle forward just over a inch. This way less firewall side of the wheel well will need to be clearanced The steering won’t need to be modified but you may have to either build new front shock towers or change the location where they mount in the front axle


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Discussion Starter #27
Perfect. Thank you. Just what I wanted to know. I will most likely go this route.

So as you said a proper high steer. I did some research and it says to use Mercedes arms. I did see some other post that it's a poor way to do it. Can you point me in a direction to go or some threads to look up on the proper setup.
 

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Trail gear or trail tough will have the complete steering upgrade you need


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No

Go spring under, flat old used leaf springs suck. You won't need high steer for spring under. Definitely don't buy shit rancho springs. Go old man emu, trail Tough or even trail gear.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
I already planned to go spring under. New perches, and two sets of rear springs. How's that sound. Replace the worn tie rods with stock and run it.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Also I'm from the powerstroke world and they do rsk on the obs trucks. I see a kit that would move the front shackles to the rear. Is that a good move? I know it improved the ride on the fords but I'm not sure about the sami
 

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I already planned to go spring under. New perches, and two sets of rear springs. How's that sound. Replace the worn tie rods with stock and run it.
2 pairs of rear lift springs may not be a bad idea.

Also I'm from the powerstroke world and they do rsk on the obs trucks. I see a kit that would move the front shackles to the rear. Is that a good move? I know it improved the ride on the fords but I'm not sure about the sami
I have a 97 F350 also, moving the shackles from the front to the back doesn't change the ride, that just internet hype. The ride improvement comes from the different springs or just getting the spring away from the bump stop. My F350 has 99-04 front leafs with the shackle still in the front and it rides as good as a super duty.

The only benefit on the Sami is to get keep the shackle from hitting rocks in the front. The downside is you will screw the caster or gain a lot of lift, and will need a long slip driveshaft. Properly set up front shackles will actually wheel better in my opinion. My 4runner SAS had front shackles and I loved it.
 

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I have installed kits on customers samurais that move the shackle to the back. To me it didn’t seem to make a huge difference in ride but it may have been the particular kit . and you do lose a bit of your approach angle with the hangers out front

There was a few builds on here where people had done their own swap and it looked like it worked better


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Stock Yota rear springs up front, hell, possibly even Yota front springs in the rear. Normal length boomerang shackles. Push box forward and get pitman arm turned down as far as possible. High steer with hydro assist. Weld the rear and go wheeling until you break something.

When the front end breaks, swap in the Toyota front axle you've been building in the shed with your spare change. RCVs, RCV hub gears, High steer, and Surplus Center hydro. 6 shooters.

When that sami breaks in half. Swap axles into something else.
 

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Shackle reversal is pointless and makes tire clearance harder to achieve as the axle moves back towards the firewall on compression.

RUF is a very worthwhile mod but is complex to get right and requires fabrication. It's also a job that suffers from scope creep so the next thing you know you have the whole front of the car apart chasing the 1% gains.

Start with matching the build to the stated task - a quality spring and shock is all that's required to do what you've described. At that point you'll have a baseline where you won't be chasing faults with other people's work and you won't be juggling a heap of aftermarket parts.

If you find where you are trying to go exceeds the capability of the vehicle, then start to looks at mods like RUF. I've done RUF on a a heap of Samurai's. It's a great modification, but that doesn't necessarily mean it's the right solution for you.

I know this is a site that's focussed towards fabrication and modifications, but it can make for some pretty tone deaf recommendations. A Samurai doesn't need 33's, a spoa or anything much at all to drive mild trails. All the overbuilding creates a compromised car that's poor at it's primary task. The more modified a car is, the less it's driven, the worse it drives and the more time the owner spends on it. Alternatively, the owner lowers their expectations because they legitimtely forget how nice their close-to-stock car was to drive once they've built it.
 

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Stock Yota rear springs up front, hell, possibly even Yota front springs in the rear. Normal length boomerang shackles. Push box forward and get pitman arm turned down as far as possible. High steer with hydro assist. Weld the rear and go wheeling until you break something.

When the front end breaks, swap in the Toyota front axle you've been building in the shed with your spare change. RCVs, RCV hub gears, High steer, and Surplus Center hydro. 6 shooters.

When that sami breaks in half. Swap axles into something else.
:rolleyes:

Sounds like a great plan for a hunting rig on 31s.
 

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Shackle in the rear puts the spring in tension and you have a lot less of chance of bending the main leaf if you run into something. Other than that shock tuning will make more of a difference to ride quality.
 

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The flip side of that is because there's no provision for a shackle at the rear of the spring, the required bracketry and shackle lowers the rear of the spring, requiring the front of the spring to be lowered to maintain caster, adding unnecessary lift and resulting in a pair of fangs hanging down at the front.

I built a shackle reversal on my Samurai ~1997. It improved high speed ride and tracking but exacerbated tire fitment issues, messed up approach angle, and offered no advantage off road. The cars with the Calmini SR aren't any better in this regard.
 

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The flip side of that is because there's no provision for a shackle at the rear of the spring, the required bracketry and shackle lowers the rear of the spring, requiring the front of the spring to be lowered to maintain caster, adding unnecessary lift and resulting in a pair of fangs hanging down at the front.

I built a shackle reversal on my Samurai ~1997. It improved high speed ride and tracking but exacerbated tire fitment issues, messed up approach angle, and offered no advantage off road. The cars with the Calmini SR aren't any better in this regard.
Caster is fine if you drill and mount shackles through the frame. I'm an advocate of doing that and moving axle forward using springs that aren't drilled in the center, like a Toy Rear.
 
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