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Discussion Starter #1
I need to make two metal tool/storage boxes for the back of my FJ40 since I can't find anything off the shelf that will work (coilovers go through the floor) :(

The boxes need to about 40" long x 11" wide x 11" deep with a hinged lid.

I was thinking of making a main body in a 'U" shape and welding on the two side panels. The main body and sides will have a 90* 3/8" lip on the top inner edge of the box so the lid will have a little more support when closed and also act as a seal surface around the lid perimiter. Then I was going to make a lid and bend a 90* 1/2" lip around 3 sides and weld on a piano hinge along the back 40" edge.

Is there a better way to make these?
What size sheet metal should I use (16 ga, 18 ga)?
Will 18 gage be sturdy enough or should I roll some beads into it for strength?
How about 16 gage without any beads?
Any tips on makng it water tight (or close to it)?
Should I have a 90* top edge, or should I roll it to 180*?

I don't want something that wil bend or dent too easliy, but I don't want these to weigh too much either.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Those are nice, but they don't have any that will fit in my limited space. :(
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I am looking at making something like this Tuffy box.

 

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Eric,
What about those old con-ferr tool boxs they made for the cruisers that followed the inner wheelwells and went under the fold down jump seats?
Not sure exactly where your coilovers poke through, but if you found some boxes at a swap meet they would be easy to modify.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
My coilovers poke in the middle of the rear tub section. I bent up a box to cover them last year, but now I am sick of spending all day trying to tie everything down. This leaves me with two 11" sections for the rear tub : Tail gate to coilovers, and coilovers to roll cage.
 

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Eric said:
The boxes need to about 40" long x 11" wide x 11" deep with a hinged lid.

I was thinking of making a main body in a 'U" shape and welding on the two side panels. The main body and sides will have a 90* 3/8" lip on the top inner edge of the box so the lid will have a little more support when closed and also act as a seal surface around the lid perimiter. Then I was going to make a lid and bend a 90* 1/2" lip around 3 sides and weld on a piano hinge along the back 40" edge.

Is there a better way to make these?
What size sheet metal should I use (16 ga, 18 ga)?
You have the basic construction down well.

22 Gage will likely be rigid for anything you throw into it (bulletproof for chains and tools). Save the weight and make it easier to form.

The opening edge of the lid and bottom needs to be rigid. Make the box like a modified refrigerator and door, or like one would be like if the fridge was laying on it's side.

Bend a 3/4" inside flange on the lid, with a 1/2" inside lip with hem for rigidity.

Bend a 1" inside flange for the box, with a 1/2" outside lip with hem for rigidity and to shed water away from the box.

The hem (folded over 180 degree bend) will leave a rounded edge to prevent cut hands when reaching into the box. Bend the 1/2" hem and flange (first), and then the flange, before bending the U-shape for the box body. The sequence will be determined by the brake available.

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ASCII Art should do the trick. You can add a foam sealer strip in the flange between the two parts, and make the boxes air tight if desired.

The width of the flanges is determined by the tooling available, what throat distance the brake will allow, and the type of brake available (freehand or press). Thinner flanges (1/2 & 3/4 vs. the 3/4 & 1 as described) will leave more reach-in room at the box opening, but may end up more difficult to form.

I hope this makes sense (I have made many boxes like this over the years).

Happy Trails!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I saw that one and it would be a good start, but I was thinking of making a box to fit. Maybe it would just be chaper to buy 2 of them and use the other 10" for ammo boxes?

That box is basically what I want to make.
 
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