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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, just built a custom spring pack for the rear of the YJ SOA, (mix YJ, XJ, and Waggy). For the front, planning to run Waggy 7 leafs.

For the rear custom, I setup 6 leafs, aproximately the same eye to eye dimmension as the front Waggy. I wanted to keep the leafs flexy, but still pretty sturdy to prevent too much axle wrap.

The question then is, should I use more leafs in the front due to higher engine weight, 7 leafs, or use 6 leafs up front, and use 7 leafs for the rear to help prevent axle wrap? I could possibly add more leafs to the 6 leaf pack, but then will I start loosing on the spring flex arena?

BTW, the Jeep is a YJ, full widtths, front 44, rear 14 bolt.

Thanks for the help :)

Gui
 

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Yo brah, I'm running a similar set up on my CJ 7. :flipoff2: :

As far as weight I have a 258 and a XD 9000 and winchplate, I am running a bobbed stock bumper, and I do have a boxed and re enforced frame.

dana 44's f and rear 60"s

In the front I added a extra leaf to the 7 leaf waggy packs, I cut the eyes off a main CJ rear and redrilled the hole for the offset. They hold the weight ok. Waggys are pretty soggy, if that is the way to describe it. I have bent a bunch of springs. Make sure you lower your bumpstops, and I would highly recomment anti inversion shackles. The springs flex big, but your gonna need to control them in order for them to live.

I am running stock 7 leave packs in the back. would also recommend a wrap bar, they like to torque up and snap around, I would also put an inversion shackle back there too. I flipped one around back there too. don't ask how :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ghetto, thansk for the info. Yep, that is what i was thinking, the waggys are pretty soggy. I will probably add and extra leaf to each pack, and get them a bit more solid. Any pics from your anti inversion shackle?

Forgot to mention that I am doing a Shackle reversal in the front, so that may help a bit to prevent inversion in the front.

Thanks for the tips,

G
 

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I dont have a pic with me. I just took an old shackle and cut in in half, then welded it to the back of the shackles on the jeep. When it rotates back the cut shackle hits the frame and stops it. They make em in a triangle, mine mimics this, but took me all of 5 min to make.

I am considering reversing the shackles. Just haven't got around to it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Not a bad idea at all :) I am running some boomerang shackles in the back, so they may help as they are. I will play with them. Hey, any suggestions on what to use around the spring pack to keep leafs from going sideways? I heard before some simple and cheap solution, but can not remember what :)

Gui
 

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I made toyota style spring clamps, basically some 1" x 3/8" plate arranged around the spring,

l_l


like so, then a bolt over through the top to clamp it on the spring.

Works great, except make sure the threads are sticking towards the inside not towards the tire. I put some less backspaced wheels on my rig w/ krawlers, I learned the hard way. Gashed one good. D'oh!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Ok, working on the custom leafs, and here are some picstures for future searches, and for visual comparison between some common springs:

From top down:

Grand Wagoneer long, rear
XJ rear (duh)
Grand Waggy 7 leaf front (same length as waggy 6 leaf)
Yj stock (45" length)




custom (missing bottom leaf on the picture)
 

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Another thing you may want to consider is running a main spring from an explorer. I just cut the eyes off and used it under the waggy main leafs. It really adds some beef to the saggin' waggy springs. Flex seems to still be there to. The explorer ones are 2.5" wide as well, but almost twice the thickness of the waggy springs. Fot the rear I used the explorer 2nd lear that was under the main.
 

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I have F-150 springs on mine.... gave me 10 extra inches of wheelbase. Super long, super flexy and thick springs. The only thing I took off what that big ass chunk of steel that they use as the bottom spring. $20 at the local yard, and there are a TON of ford trucks out there.
 

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Gui, those black new ones are the JCWhitless 7 leaf waggys, right?

For the guys adding leaves, are you adding a leaf in a way to use an old spring eye as a military wrap? Or just spring rate?
I'm guessing not (for mil-wrap) since the eye would need to be ob-round for flex, or would it? If only one side is wrapped maybe it will flex enough.
For a JCW waggy spring being used in a CJ front for wheelbase, under typical shackle set-ups, the fixed spring eye is really small in diameter, so there may be many possibilities for wrapping the eyes.
 

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hayGui

sorry about sunday , my wife had me on honey do duty. I never even made it to the cabin. Thanks for the info the other day.
Do you still want the stock ford hubs i have. no charge for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Doug,

The ones that look newer in the picture are actually ones I custom made, then cleaned up and painted :) They are mix between stock YJ, Waggy 6 and 7 leafs, and XJ leafs, cut together. I was planning to do one eye of the springs using a longer waggy rear and cut one end, thus wrapping one side as you mentioned, givinga bit more protection and rigidity. I ended up adding a flat leaf at the bottom of the pack (below the main leaf), for extra support of the main. Since it will be a SOA, the goal is to help prevent axle wrap (I really want to get away like you in regards to no anti-wrap bar, if possible.

I will try driving the Jeep without a bar, worst case scenario, will end up having to build something :( I was sketching a anti wrap bar last night, using the track bar (saw a posting with something similar here). I will try building something using Wrangler TJ lower or upper control arms (the bushing ends), so it will flex a bit sideways, and prevent loss of flex).

Here is a picture from Monday night, last night I started the cleaning and painting the axle, so it looks purty! I shaved about a quarter of an inch from the top lip with the grinder, rounding it up a bit, so it will help prevent hitting the gas tank, or at least will give it a cleaner "bite" and slide if it hits. I am debating moving the tank a few inches up, cutting the cargo area, or just saving for a fuel cell like your sweet setup. Ideally I would like to increase my wheelbase now, rather than later, so I would only need to do shafts once :) But as of last night I started thinking about lifting the engine a few inches up and flatbelly the Jeep at the same time...LOL like you mentioned, this winter project is becoming a two winter project :)

BTW, I got two 14 bolts, (ended up buying the last one because it already had 5.13's). The last one, in the pic below, when I moved to mock up perches and position, gave me a good suprise... The stock 14 bolt perches will bolt on into the stock YJ position! I love bolt on stuff, LOL Just need to cross my fingers that the shaft angle will be good :)



and



I was going to shave the bottom up yesterday, but this pig is way too heavy to move around by myself, so I will hold off until I have it in the rig.

Mike! no worries, and thanks for touching base, and I will be glad to help with anything! I would definitely appreciate one hub, I have one of my Fords torn up, and have a drive flange in it for now, but do not want the axle locked all the time. I will look into DOug's tip about the premium Warn hubs as well, so I may go in that direction soon, just trying to keep my budget a bit tight, since still need some minor stuff, (wheels, driveshafts, shocks and towers, etc) But Jeep and budget are two words that should never be together in the same phrase LOL :)
 

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Is that 14B a CUCV? Looks narrow. Well Gui, looks like we'll have are sh1t done around the same time. Should go testing at Fordyce once the snow thaws.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hi Doug!


I got two 14 bolts at home. They are both same width, hub to hub, this one is slightly narrower. I think it is a CUCV axle, not sure about the origin. The other is from a Suburban. Both are full width, the one that looks smaller actually has the same size shaft as the wider one. I was debating which one to install.

Incredibly, the shorter perches positioning is exactly a bolt for a YJ, a big coincidence :) The only issue is the angle is not correct, just found out last night, bummer :( I will try mocking up and put a angle wedge, but think I would probably need about a 4 inch wedge... what do you think? I got some perches to weld on, but would need to grind the ones that are there...I think maybe I am being too lazy :)

Definitely up for Fordyce!!! Am hoping to have the Jeep upo and running in a few weeks. Hmm still debating doing the rear comp cut. I like your setup with the TJ rear flare!

Gui
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Doug,

Let me know what you think about the axle. Do u think it is too short? Basically the drums are more inward than the burban 14 bolt... The wheel will still mount on the surface out, so it will have a good space between drum and wheel. I am planning to convert to disc pretty soon, so it may look kinda funny having the disc about 10 inches from the wheel, LOL at least the disc will be cool all the time, :D
 

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It's your call on the width of the axle. When it comes time for a bigger rear axle for me the CUCV will be the one at 63" WMS.
Right now my HP44 is 64.5" WMS with non-HD outters, my rear is 59.5" WMS. They work well together and I really like the larger than normal off-set.
When I go with the CUCV at 63" I'll add the HD outters on the front for another 1.5" to total at 66" WMS, trying to stay close to the same off-set.

I would ditch the idea of a shim. MORE has the long pads for 14B and 8.8 axles, IIRC 3.25" tube. Use a cutting wheel on the grinder, it'll make quick work of cutting the old pads off. Mark the positions on the tube for the new pads and bolt everything up, friction fit and put the weight on it. Then just use a sledge and drift to move the pads for windage and a bottle jack for pinion angle. Super easy.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Doug,

Thanks for the info. I got the longer pads which may also help with the anti-wrap. Ah, just dreaming that I got lucky and the 14 bolt would be a bolt on, LOL :D
I have the HD outesr on the front HP 44, so I am pretty close to 66, so working as planned.

Argh, now I am debating again today how long I should go in the rear, since I will have to weld perches, and order the driveshaft. Darn, I may just bite the bullet and go for the longer rear wheelbaase right now, and get it done :) My poor fenders :)

Gui
 
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