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Discussion Starter #1
I'm running a stock Astro pitman arm that is flat and 6.25" CTC. I need something more like 6.75" - 7.00" to get to full turning radius and with a 2" rise to compensate for the box mounted on a downward angle. Of course nothing on the market meets this need, so I was going to make something myself. I was going to have something plasma cut from thick steel, then cut the splined end of my stock arm off and weld it in a hole cut in the arm. Any reason I shouldn't do this?

I know how to weld, don't worry about that. From what I can tell, this is forged steel, which should present no welding problems.

PICS:
current setup - TRE underneath works okay, but hangs below the springs (high tendency to catch on things and isn't as flat as it could be)

pic

TRE on top hits the box and frame (bolt holding pitman to box not tight in these pics).

pic 2

pic 3
 

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Are you sure a factory GM Pitman arm wouldnt work?
Like Camaro and Firebird.
The manual steering arms are straight and 7.25 or 7.5 in long.
Power steering arms are bent and about 7-7.5 in long.
I dont recall the spline size though.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Are you sure a factory GM Pitman arm wouldnt work?
Like Camaro and Firebird.
The manual steering arms are straight and 7.25 or 7.5 in long.
Power steering arms are bent and about 7-7.5 in long.
I dont recall the spline size though.
Any idea what year? The information I'm finding isn't agreeing with what you said. And IIRC, the manual arms won't fit on the splines on the power steering box. I'm asking, not telling here.
 

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Never done it, but personally I think it will work. I use welded hi-steer arms with my rockwells, 42's, and full-hydro and I beat the piss out of them and nothing has broken for years. There's no way you're going to be able to apply the forces with plain old power steering that I am with my full hydro. Remember, a proper weld is stronger than the steel its on.

J. J.
 

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i did this, i was so paranoid about cutting and welding on vital steering parts, i tapered both sides of the weld joint, burnt one side in with 3 passes, flipped it over, carbon arced down into the root of the intial weld, then welded it up with another 3 passes...this made it solid metal...its massive overkill...i used 71m wire outershield with a CO2 backing gas...truely not necesary, but if it doesnt break and kill someone, it doesnt break and kill someone:D
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Never done it, but personally I think it will work. I use welded hi-steer arms with my rockwells, 42's, and full-hydro and I beat the piss out of them and nothing has broken for years. There's no way you're going to be able to apply the forces with plain old power steering that I am with my full hydro. Remember, a proper weld is stronger than the steel its on.

J. J.
I have ram assist, so (I've been told), the force combined from the box and the ram should be nearly equal to (some people say more) the force of full hydro. But that's a separate debate, thanks for the reference. :)
 

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back in the day they used to cut the splined section (like a biscuit) out of a stock arm and weld it into a thick steel arm of whatever you want.
 

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recently, i bought a solid billet flat pitman arm from skymanufacturing in the dimension i needed...i bent it a few degrees to clear everything in a huge pressbrake at work and feathered out the 'dented/squised' edges with a flapper disc to remove potential stress points
 

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if you look at allprooffroads custom pitman arms, looks like they took the two chunks(biscuits as described above) and sandwiched them with 1/4-5/16'' plate, bent to whatever dimension they needed...seems strong enough as well, they even cap the open edges on the sides
 

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I've done it a few times in the past on Off Road only vehicles and I know of lots of them have been done and are fine so far.

I'm always a little uncomfortable with the whole concept though.

So...

Here's a 7" solid steel, flat, bendable one for only $80.00.

CLICKY

No pic in that link but I have one on a van in the shop that I'm building right now, I can snap a pic of it tomorrow if you'd like.
 

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I have ram assist, so (I've been told), the force combined from the box and the ram should be nearly equal to (some people say more) the force of full hydro. But that's a separate debate, thanks for the reference. :)
It might be equal but not greater than full hydro. The ram will apply more than you ever can by hand and therefore whatever yuo can apply will not be in additio tot he ram. But even so I think it will work.

J. J.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Well I guess this thread answered my question in record time. If I choose to make it, I should be fine, or if I choose to spend $100, they have what I need in stock.

Thanks for everybody's help!
 

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The ram assist will take a great deal of strain off of the pitman arm. In fact, the sector shaft and pitman will act like a limiting control device more than a power device except in the most extreme conditions.
 

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We do it here with no problems ,we tig it up and cool it slowly. Just be sure to clock the splines properly.:)
 

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I have been running this one for a while now. I cut the stock splines off in a bandsaw, rounded it to fit in the hole (cut w/ holesaw) in a piece of steel bar. I got it tacked in and doweled the ID of the bar to the OD of the splined part just as a backup plan. Finished TIG'ing it then cut the rest of the shape out.
 

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I have been running this one for a while now. I cut the stock splines off in a bandsaw, rounded it to fit in the hole (cut w/ holesaw) in a piece of steel bar. I got it tacked in and doweled the ID of the bar to the OD of the splined part just as a backup plan. Finished TIG'ing it then cut the rest of the shape out.
:lmao: Yeah, that should hold.


On a more serious note, that looks damn good.
 
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