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Discussion Starter #1
I am using EB radius arms on a SAS on my explorer. My problem is that the late model explorers do not have much bend in the frame up front, so to get the lift i need Ill have to use drop brackets and have the radius arms angled down. I know if they are angled to far/have to much slope that it will push the bottom spring bucket out toward the front of the car. what is the max slope/angle of the radius arms that i can get away with?
 

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You can adjust castor using 'degreed' bushings. 0 up to 7. 7 degree bushings should work fine.
 

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This will help the caster of the axle knuckles, but does nothing for the coils....

I have installed a Ford D44 into the front of my Jeep Comanche.
What we ended up doing was actually moving the coil cups on the axle (atop of the radius arms) inboard 1.5" each side (it was still at full width) and welding a 4 degree pinion wedge (steel) atop the piece of 3/8"angle iron (where the short side was ground into a "saddle" to rest atop the axle diameter) and the flat long side was secured to the two threaded holes of the original radius arm.
The plate was then secured to the axle via 3" u-bolts through the "saddle" side of the plate. Two new holes were drilled to accomodate the new inboard position of the cup, and the wedge was welded over these w/ the fat side forward to tilt the coil backwards.


HTH.

Deano
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yeah that is what i was planning on doing wort case senerio, I wanted to know if i can get away with teh 4 inch drop brackets.

anyone know the max angle/slope
 

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A friend just installed a Dana 44 into his exploder using the stock radius arms and 4 inch lift springs. He used the rear mounts out of a 78 bronco. they are longer than the F-150 ones. His seems to work fine. not sure of the exact angle but I could get it too you in a few days if need be.
 

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jeffseal said:
Yeah that is what i was planning on doing wort case senerio, I wanted to know if i can get away with teh 4 inch drop brackets.

anyone know the max angle/slope
You will lose serious ground/obstacle clearance under the frame....
The degreed "C" bushings and wedges are the way to go to retain smooth passing over obstacles. I played with mine for a year and after numerous hang-ups....I did the "C" bushings & wedge thing and removed the drops....
 

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Some of the trucks have lower brackets than others so check the pick and pull. Also the EB's end up with a healthy angle without a problem. If your mount and arm don't match up good check out the doughnut bushings @ www.bcbroncos.com they have a built in angle to them.
HTH
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I wont need any C bushings cuase i am welding the wedges on at the angle i want them. The C bushings wont help my problem of the springs being tilted forward.

C bushings wont help the angle of the coils.

so, anyone know the max slope/angle the arms can be at?
 

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I was not talking about the "C" bushings look at the other end of the arm :rolleyes: . What angle are you talking about? Mine are about 7* or so and there is no problem other than the spring is not straight up it has a bow to it. I have seen people weld a wedge to the top of the arm to straiten it but unless you are going really steep it is not a problem, if you are going to steep your springs are the least of your concern. I would be suspect of anything more than say maybe 12*. Just my opinion so take it for what it is worth to you. :)
 

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How much lift are you putting on? If you use 7 degree bushings you can get away with ~10-12" of total lift on the front depending on how you do it. Mine has 6" and the RA's angle 1 degree downward from axle to bracket.
 

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kind of a stupid queston :rolleyes: if you just go out to the shop were the work is being done and actually look at what you have its self explantory if the radius arm is level the spring pad will be level :eek: man thats hard huh? now go tell who ever is doin the swap that and all will be good :D
 
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