Eccotemp heater is awesome, really. Mad awesome for a shower. Lacking a bit in gpm for a heated floor, but that I can remedy. Most of the complaints for them sound like they're coming from folks that just want stuff to work and aren't interested in fixing anything themselves. Most of the parts inside of it can be found individually or inside of an item that I can find at Ace Hardware for cheap. I find that attractive lol.Ah sorry I misunderstood, yes luan is great, I thought you were saying it would Insulate. Over spray foam it's great, I used 1/4 t&g cedar for my ceiling.
I see so the ecotemp heat exchanger sucks? God man, just gey the espar I'm totally for diy projects, but that seems silly.
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Good to know. The interruptions hadn't come to mind. I've been wanting to do a scale version to try out. Being a stay-at-home dad with no ride or income and a wife that works 12-hour days, I have a hell of a time getting to any store and being able to afford stuff myself then trying to build it in the house while my two boys are climbing all over me every chance they get. Anyway, that's why I brought it up here. All the input is appreciated. I have to run stuff across to other adults. Discussing this with a three-year-old only goes so far.From my FF engineer days....the washers creating ripples or turbulence is going to require a larger Pump than you might think... as when the flow is interrupted it requires higher volume to overcome that resistance ...when the pex system is used the pipe is all the same diameter with very few obstructions.....I'd just do the pex...as your going to do a ton of work.
Or build a very small scale one to see how it's going to pan out...like a 4x4 one first so your not to heavily invested in the plan if the volume is not there...
Either way nice start..and I'm subscribed :grinpimp:
Ah. Real numbers. What kind of rig are you heating? Noise level of your heater? I'm checking out the hydronic S3. Stuff is pricey, so justifying such a purchase will take some work.I see the dc power requirement as a nonissue. We run 3 regular agm bats not even 6v golf cart bats and i have gone 2 days running the espar and the heater blower and controls without having to fire up the genny. If u r gonna boondock u will need a genny and having a ton more room u could put more bats and solar on top. This would easily take care of the load without a genny.
Still not trying to shit on your parade just sharing my experience.
You nailed it, sir. Either floor I build will be insulated underneath, though. I'd have to run the floor for a few days to figure out exactly how much heat loss through the bottom there would be and how much to insulate it and if I can use any of that heat loss to keep the bay temps warm enough to keep water from freezing.I'm very interested in this thread and also don't want to shit on you for thinking outside the box but you have a lot of considerations to make before charging ahead with your design. I think you know that. It seems like you have a fair bit of pride tried up on your brain child and want to see it succeed which is understandable but you're making all your critical thoughts from a biased perspective. One example: you say some heat Loss to the under bay is a positive aspect of your steel floor but you would need to insulate under the pex floor to stop heat Loss. Both should probably have insulation. This steel floor could work but it's going to be oodles of work and an absolute nightmare if it ever cracks or leaks. What if the 18ga warps where you welded circles in the middle of it and it pops up and down when you walk on it? What CAD program are you using? Provably couldn't run some simulations for heat transfer across that floor? Do you know someone who could do that on their lunch break at work?
I don't think going to thicker plate under your floor will reflect the heat upwards. The conductivity will be the same, just a greater thermal mass on the bottom of the floor versus the top which won't help you.
I priced out stainless and aluminum sheet for this a while ago. Far too costly for the square footage of a bus. Are you laying anything in between the bottom aluminum and floating floor? We'll be laying down a click-lock, floating vinyl floor over top of whatever the radiant floor ends up being built with.We used aluminum.
I plan to float a floor over the top of Pex, once the side walls are trimmed out.
Alu would be cool. $300 per sheet for 0.125" 4x8s. Our space is 8' wide and the length takes 9 to 10 sheets.Alu good, the make plates you can out down to clip the pex into (they are thin aluminum), could be riveted down to the floor
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
I dig the Warmboard. If somebody in Pueblo or Springs carries it, we'll take a look. The 11 gauge was picked for structural stability. Didn't want thinner sheet to crack under stresses that a bus sees while driving.I would be tempted to do something like Warmboard stuff for houses. Router out channels in the foam board, place some heavy aluminum foil down and cap with Al sheet. No need to go 1/8", .040 would be plenty for heat distribution. The something with a low R value for the flooring. If you know your floor plan ahead of time you can place your runs accordingly and still be able to bolt shit down.
Mass is good for steady state heat, but it will take way longer to heat up.
Venting the boiler into the engine compartment sounds like a bad idea. I have a very large ice mound under the house heater vent currently. The new high efficiency heater puts out some water. I could see this coating the motor with ice unless the engine heat loop was constantly running also which would defeat the purpose of using the boiler exhaust to keep things warm. I don't know, maybe there would be enough heat in there to keep it from icing.
Also, what happens if your steel floor freezes?
We r just heating a peterbilt with a 9' sleeper. Its much smaller then a bus and we use a Proair heater and controls. I had to use an ag style sprayer pump selinod and a motorized selinod so it automatical shuts the fluid off to the sleeper heater core and bypasses it back through the system when the tstat is satisfied. i dont have a pic of the set up but here is the unit. Its what is used in an ambulance. Once the coolant is hot it brought thd temp from 34 to 74 in less then 10 min.Ah. Real numbers. What kind of rig are you heating? Noise level of your heater? I'm checking out the hydronic S3. Stuff is pricey, so justifying such a purchase will take some work.