Pirate 4x4 banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
31,217 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
OK.. so I have a stock 1987 4Runner that has been my pride and joy for 11 years. Until now, I have never had the luxury to turn my daily driver and only vehicle into a Rock eating machine. But, the time has come. I have basic mechanical knowledge and experience, but ...well.... I'm just flat out nervous about tearing into my truck.
I am plannign on putting in a Chevy 350 to replace the stock 22re that is shot. A 3" Body lift is already installed. Now I need to pull the stick shift off and bend it so it does not hit the sides of the opening in the floorboards. So.. here is the real question.... Before I pull this off, does anyone know:
If anyone sells an insert kit to raise the stick back to stock height relative to the body, thereby making it into a short-throw shifter? I have been unable to find one.
According to my Chilton's, I need a special Toyota tool to remove the shift lever. #09305-20012 to be exact. What is this and is it really necessary?
In all honesty, how hard will it be to bend the shift stick?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,336 Posts
Chister, I know this ain't exactly what you're looking for, but maybe it's a step in a somewhat useful direction. Roger Brown sells a short-throw T-case shifter kit, maybe take a look at the design and get ideas for fabbing something for the tranny? If not, you still might want one for your t-case(s).
Short Throw T-case shifter
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,837 Posts
there is a short throw tranny shifter adaptor out there for sale,, I just cant think of the company right now,, I remember seeing the add in the 4wd mags awhile back,, I know Marlin makes a t-case short throw shifter,, as for removing the shifter cane,, just remove the boots and reach down and twist the spring loaded ring around the base of the shifter this is done by pushing down on the ring and at the same time twisting it counterclockwise,(I think),, and the ring will pop up,, and the cane will come out,, You can heat up the cane (with a torch) and bent it to fit, although all the times I have done a bodylift,, I still had to trim the sheet metal too,always pops out of 2nd and reverse if not, I have also heated up the shift cane while still in the vehicle,, but doing this is a little scarry,, I got some big beach towels and soaked them in water and layed them inside the cab..good luck,,,, <IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0">
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,333 Posts
ok chister, don't tell anyone i answered a tech Q OK!

the 5sp shifter is easy, there's actually 2 way's to pull it

1. pull teh 4 or 6 bolt's out of the top plate, it lift's right out

OR

2. pull the little round rubber boot up right where the stick goes into the tranny, there's a (crude description) round piece in there, push down on it it's spring loaded, turn it 1/8 to 1/4 turn (not sure of direction) and it pops up, the just lift the stick straight out...


also, marlin makes short throw shifter's for t-cases, so i'd bet he makes them for 5sp's too!

and as far as bending it, mild heat works great <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 

·
Wicked Raciest !
Joined
·
17,737 Posts
Originally posted by webilt:
<STRONG> You can heat up the cane (with a torch) and bent it to fit, although all the times I have done a bodylift,, I still had to trim the sheet metal too,always pops out of 2nd and reverse if not, I have also heated up the shift cane while still in the vehicle,, but doing this is a little scarry,, I got some big beach towels and soaked them in water and layed them inside the cab..good luck,,,, <IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0"></STRONG>
Do not do this. The Toyota shifter (cane) is two piece mounted together with some type of rubbery epoxy and if you heat it up it will comprise the epoxy. It is put together that way to stop tranny noise from telegraphing up the shifter.

<IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
283 Posts
I would definately take that 3 in body lift off before you put a 350 in there and do a SAS.have you checked out the 4.3 swap? It makes way more sense.this is only if you want to turn your truck into a "rock-eating
machine" just my 2 cents.
<IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0">
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31,217 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Thanks guys! <IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0">
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,050 Posts
Hell I ended up pulling the shifer apart at that epoxy seal they are talking about and built me a john holms/ratfink shifter.
More to the point I did a 3 on an 81 toy and we cut the floor some (hell it may still be on ORC tech??) and then put the shift bar in a big vice and pulled like hell and bent it some cold. It's really a strong steel (tempered?) just trimm the floor and usually the boots will stll cover it up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31,217 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Well, I had done a lot of research and read a lot of "pesonal experience" stories before I did the lift (which , BTW is the suggested route for both clearance and airflow with teh larger, hotter engine) and everyone says "trim the metal" yeah, that is good and all, but the stock boots still bind the stick. There is no metal contact, but my stock boiots have shredded on the 5spd boot due to the extra stress that the extra articulation puts on the boot. the transfer stick boot works fine in 2hi, 4hi, and N but refuses to stay in 4lo, even though the metal is trimmed to the point of excess, because the rubber boots wont allow that much movement on the transfer case stick. So, I have no problem with the stick and the contact with metal.. The problem now is with the boot overextending and stretching it too far, to the point of ripping.

So... I looked at the Marlin, and since he is a trusted name in the Biz, that is prolly the way I will go. His stuff looks clean and has what seems to be a good rep.

If it weren't for the fact that I don't like mud and stuff spewing up through a big hole in the floor, I'd probably ignore the silly boot, but such is the price of vanity. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
386 Posts
<FONT COLOR="Red"> lose the 3 inch body lift... that's too much (any body lift is too much IMHO). </FONT c>
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,837 Posts
Originally posted by OOPS:
[QBDo not do this. The Toyota shifter (cane) is two piece mounted together with some type of rubbery epoxy and if you heat it up it will comprise the epoxy. It is put together that way to stop tranny noise from telegraphing up the shifter.

<IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">[/QB]
Hummm, ?? I have a 1988,, and I never had any problem with the epoxy , maybe due to the wet towles, and heating it up from the base,I was o.k.,,

another idea would be to lower the entire floorpan hump 3"s, I have seen this done,, and the guy said it really wasnt too hard to do,, and he was then able to retain the stock shift boots, and gain a little more cab room to boot !! just a thought .

<IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0">
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top