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Discussion Starter #1
I'm just wondering what patterns you all use for the different welding positions.
I searched but didn't come up with what I was looking for.

I've found that if I'm welding flat I can use a weave pattern and it turns out just fine. If I'm welding horizontal a D pattern seems work work pretty good. On a vertical down a fast zig-zag works pretty good.

At this point I cannot for the life of me get a good vertical up. Well actually i can get maybe 1 out of 5, trying a fast weave and also a fast zig-zag and also noticed that turning the voltage and wire speed down a bit seems to prevent popping a hole right through the metal on the vertical up's

Have yet to try overhead.

Any suggestions on what patterns to run for the different positions?

Flame away!
 

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I have tried overhead and suck balls at it. I wish someone could explain the right way to do that as well as your question. I'm not trying to hyjack your thread cause I'm also interested in the answer to your question. I know practice, practice, practice. But it sure helps to know where to start, from someone who knows how.
 

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just as a note, verticle down is not reccomended. very easy to get cold welds (poor penetration) but thats another topic.


verticle up you need to turn the heat down a bit. what kind of joint are you running ? lap, t, single bevel, double bevel, butt?

most of them the usual way is to use a V pattern. start at the root of the weld and then pull out towards one edge, then return to the root. then back out towards the other edge. try and pause at the outside edges.

what you are trying to do is build a shelf each time. ya build up a little on one side and then move to the other and let it cool and solidify a bit before adding more on top.


overhead you need a little bit less wire feed. just drag the puddle, don't worry about manipulating it.


all welding positions other than verticle up should be able to be done in just a straight drag/push, no weave or pattern. the weave/pattern is just to create a larger weld / change appearance a bit. it won't really effect the strength of it, and some will argue that manipulating and getting a bigger weld will actually decrease strength, but that again is for another thread
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Really appreciate the advice. I'm trying any and all joints in as many positions as I can get into. Pretty much just practicing any and everything as much as possible before I start in on the daily driver.

So a vertical up should turn the voltage down a bit and try a V pattern with a large tack.
Overhead turn the wire speed down a bit.

I'll play with it a bit and see what I come up with.
 

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So a vertical down should turn the voltage down a bit and try a V pattern with a large tack.
No... If you go vertical down you should use more voltage to prevent cold lap...

Vertical up & overhead you can turn it down a bit.

My welding instructor always said that if you could find the sweet spot in your settings you should not have to change anything other than your pattern when mig welding. He would prove it to the class by fully butt welding 2 pieces of 5" pipe together without stoping. One continuous beautifull bead all the way around, the fucker was good!

When welding vertical up I usualy use a figure 8 pattern of bead and angle my gun slightly up. I try to slow down on the outside swoop and then push the puddle all the way to the corner. Getting the weld all the way into the corner was the hardest part for me. You are basicly building a corner shelf (that slopes towards you) as you move up. As you swoop the figure 8 back onto itself the origional area should be cool enough to solidify and hold your new stroke up. It's not easy...

On a flat joint ware I don't have to climb a wall I usualy use a stack of "V's" with the point facing me if the joint is close. Or a upsidown V if there is a gap I am trying to fill. The upsidown "V" allows me to bring the gap closer and keep the weld from falling thru. This pattern makes a nice contour to the weld with the end result looking like butterfly wings.

If I have an "L" shaped area to weld with one of the two sides being vertical I will run a "J" type pattern ware I creat a ramp with each stroke to run up and hold it aginst the vertical piece. This pattern greats a flat stack of dimes.
 

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If someone around here has some TIG welding experience I would love to see a thread started along the same lines showing what methods you use.

On most of my tig welds (other than a flat weld). I get undercutting on the edges. The weld itself has a nice contour but the edges get undercut :(
 

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Discussion Starter #7
No... If you go vertical down you should use more voltage to prevent cold lap...

Vertical up & overhead you can turn it down a bit.
That's what I meant, edited above :smokin:

Okay so try figure 8's and V's, i there is a gap invert the V. Right on, lots of stuff to practice.
 

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If I have an "L" shaped area to weld with one of the two sides being vertical I will run a "J" type pattern ware I creat a ramp with each stroke to run up and hold it aginst the vertical piece. This pattern greats a flat stack of dimes.
Long leg of the J into the puddle, or ahead into the cold seam? I like to run the long leg of a J ahead to get some heat into the seam ahead, then drop the curve of the J back into the puddle...seems like if I do a C, a D, or a V, I get too convex of a weld, and not enough heat in the joint. If I do a J, I get a lot of heat forward into the weld, and I can shape/fill the puddle with the curve of the J. Gives me a bigger HAZ, and a very nice flat weld profile (not concave, not convex).

I have been welding stick for 20 years, 3 of them well, and only started MIG this winter, so I'm trying to apply the same principles of catching both sides of the base material and watching the puddle.

Finally got a bottle of Argon yesterday, so I'm ready to try the Parker TIG. (I scored a couple of empty 15.5 gal SS kegs to cut up and turn into a bbq smoker)
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Tried the inverted V tonight, works like a champ for vertical up butt, lap and outside corner welds. Works so well I didn't even feel the need to turn anything down. Thanks for the ideas! :D
 

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Long leg of the J into the puddle, or ahead into the cold seam?
I run the long leg along the cold seam...I'm sure it help to preheat everything. I also typicaly (on a L joint with a vertical side) pause at the top of the J swing and twist/angle the gun into the vertical piece to help keep the weld on/burnt in to the vertical piece.
 

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I run the long leg along the cold seam...I'm sure it help to preheat everything. I also typicaly (on a L joint with a vertical side) pause at the top of the J swing and twist/angle the gun into the vertical piece to help keep the weld on/burnt in to the vertical piece.
Sounds familiar to me. Gives me both good, hot joints and a nice appearance.

Opinions on Spiral and C patterns?

I know the spiral pattern returning over the deposited weld was not good for some reason or another...
There's not a problem with returning over the deposited weld, per se, but it depends on a lot of other factors.

If you're burning really, really hot, and experiencing undercut (of the base metal) into your weld, and the weld puddle isn't really filling the undercut back in, then yes, you want to pause over the puddle and let the puddle grow and fill in the undercuts. If you're experiencing bird poop, then you're not running enough heat (or too much wire speed), and you're just dumping wire on top of an already cold weld. Your weld will get thicker, but you won't increase penetration, as the cold weld below will insulate the base metal from the heat and wire you're dumping on top.
 

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Opinions on Spiral and C patterns?

I know the spiral pattern returning over the deposited weld was not good for some reason or another...
They say welding in spirals/circles tends to trap junk in the weld that would normaly float to the surface or edge. This creats inclusions or little pockets of junk that will help start a crack.

However I don't think it would be any worse than the Tack-Tack method you see alot now-a-days.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Reviving this thread for a minute.

Having a terrible time getting my overhead welds to work worth a crap. Any suggestions?
 

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Practice, practice, practice.

Overhead is easy (IMO). It's similar welding in the flat position (in terms of puddle control), so it's easy to see and control the puddle unlike welding vertical up. The trick is to get in a comfortable position (not always easy to do) and try to brace your arm/elbow on something. When taking my arc test at school I ran the amps just a hair lower than flat. Most of my welding experience is in stick and flux core with NR232, but the advice should apply to MIG welding, too.
 

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Reviving this thread for a minute.

Having a terrible time getting my overhead welds to work worth a crap. Any suggestions?
The worst thing I find myself doing is not moving fast enough. I sit in one place to long and the weld wants to fall out. The tuneing of the welder is usualy the same...
 

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Instead of tack-tack-tack, I like to go zaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaap-zaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaap-zaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaap. Go 1-1.5 inches, then if you're heating the base so much that your puddle is enormous and starting to drip, let it cool from white or orange hot back to red hot (can just barely see the molten metal through a Sh10 lens) then keep welding. Otherwise, if I drop my power enough to not drip, it seems like I get poor penetration and the weld looks like bird shit.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Alright, it's official. I'm a jackass.

Turned up the wirespeed a notch and viola, seems to work just fine. :homer:
 
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