Read Brian's article in TT about his hybrid axle. What about cutting off the ends of the minitruck axle and welding them on the cruiser axle (still offset to the passenger side) to make a FF axle and utilize the minitruck drum brakes and parking brake (no parking brake after 350/700R4 swap)? Is it costly to have the minitruck axles shortened and re-splined? I have an ARB in the rear that uses c-clips, can that still be used in the rear with a FF axle? Is there a cheaper way to get a parking brake and a FF axle and still utilize the cruiser t-case? Am I blowing steam out my crack? :barf:
Minitruck-Cruiser rearend hybrid
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Toyota truck rear end is still a semi floater just uses a bolted flange insted of a C clip.
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Yes you can still use the ARB (but the 4 spider one designed for ff is much stronger and less likely to spin a pin).
Assuming you can't just buy a FF rear, I'd do the following:
cut off the ends of your housing. Weld on some flanges to take a front spindle. Find a suitable caliper with park brake. Add mountings for these. Get some axles made, use all the std front hubs/discs etc. Use driveflages (or even FWhubs if you want).
TIP: get two of each axle made - saves time if you need a replacement in a hurry
Assuming you can't just buy a FF rear, I'd do the following:
cut off the ends of your housing. Weld on some flanges to take a front spindle. Find a suitable caliper with park brake. Add mountings for these. Get some axles made, use all the std front hubs/discs etc. Use driveflages (or even FWhubs if you want).
TIP: get two of each axle made - saves time if you need a replacement in a hurry
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andrewfarmer said:Yes you can still use the ARB (but the 4 spider one designed for ff is much stronger and less likely to spin a pin).
Assuming you can't just buy a FF rear, I'd do the following:
cut off the ends of your housing. Weld on some flanges to take a front spindle. Find a suitable caliper with park brake. Add mountings for these. Get some axles made, use all the std front hubs/discs etc. Use driveflages (or even FWhubs if you want).
TIP: get two of each axle made - saves time if you need a replacement in a hurry
Oh is that all? :laughing:
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Here is a cool link to building a FF. But whats the point? lots of work and money when you could just buy a Dana 60 FF for 30 bucks at PNP. If you want an off set rear FF you could do a custom rear 60 for less money. Thats just my 02http://www.off-road.com/toyota/projects/tacoma/ultimate_axle_pt3/
I got my rear end from Jeremiah Proffitt at Proffitts Cruisers. Mini truck ends and axle shafts with LC center section. Centers the differential and loses the C-clips. There are also plenty o' chrome-moly aftermarket axle shafts for mini truck rear ends. So far, I'm happy with it, but that said, its only been sitting on jackstands, mocked up under the chassis. It sits there real nice. :flipoff2:
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Or you could find one that came offset. Would be full width though.RustyNailJustin said:
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What about a rearend out of an FJ60/62? They have the parking brake in the drums. The FJ62 even has a fine spline pinion that is 4.10.
I though about using a tacoma rear diff shortened on one side to use a early (79 to 83) truck axle. It would move the diff over like you nee and I believe be around like 56 or so inches... i done remember the widths, but could be something to look into. You could use a 8.4 style taco rear end... once again I dont know much about crusier diffs....
jeff
jeff
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SpongeMan said:
3rd members are the same. The FJ60 housings are 3 inches wider than FJ40s
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SpongeMan said:
You can put your ARB in the FJ62 third member it will bolt rirht in, extremely easy. When I swapped mine over I had to replace the pinion bearings also, so it was a little more work.
RustyNailJustin said:
When I measured my 72 FJ40 rear axle with discs on it I got a measurement of 55 1/2". After I assembled my FJ60 rear with the discs on it I got a measurement of 57 1/2". You could run 1" spacers on the front and the width would match.
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SpongeMan said:
So whats your plan or reason for using the 60 rear housing? Just trying to gain width? Seems like this whole thread is scatter brained I cant fallow what you are trying to do
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SpongeMan said:
Justin, I think he wants an offset Cruiser rear end with the parking break at the wheels and not the tcase.
:flipoff2:
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I know, seems like everyone on here thinks just put a Dana 60 in and be done with it....(need new t-case, new locker, still need a parking brake) I need to keep my ARB and am trying to do the easiest parking brake I can...RustyNailJustin said:So whats your plan or reason for using the 60 rear housing? Just trying to gain width? Seems like this whole thread is scatter brained I cant fallow what you are trying to do
[QUOTE='62FJ40]LukeZero, what is this axel going to cost you?
Housing, axels ect... what else must be purchased to
make this set-up complete? calipers... brake lines...ect
strength wise how will it compare to a 9'' Ford or similar?
Thanks[/QUOTE]
Sorry, was out of town for the weekend.
Estimated costs...
$450 for housing.
$600 for ARB
$200 for gears
$150 for setup kit
$40 for pinion flange
$50 for some old axle shafts
Calipers, rotors, studs, hangers, etc.........$200.00
So... about $1700. But since you already own most of the stuff for the center section- you could get by a lot cheaper.
Hope this helps. Luke
Housing, axels ect... what else must be purchased to
make this set-up complete? calipers... brake lines...ect
strength wise how will it compare to a 9'' Ford or similar?
Thanks[/QUOTE]
Sorry, was out of town for the weekend.
Estimated costs...
$450 for housing.
$600 for ARB
$200 for gears
$150 for setup kit
$40 for pinion flange
$50 for some old axle shafts
Calipers, rotors, studs, hangers, etc.........$200.00
So... about $1700. But since you already own most of the stuff for the center section- you could get by a lot cheaper.
Hope this helps. Luke
FJ40 rear housing and welded 4.11 center section - had one laying aroundLukeZero said:
empty minitruck rear housing with shafts - just bought two for $50
upgrade to fine spline used 62-series gears - $50
install kit for above - $100
AA-mfg brackets for monte calipers - $20
rotors - used the ones already on my FJ40 rear
calipers - used the ones already on my FJ40 rear.
perches or link brackets - $20ish
flange - redrill the round minitruck one or run a minitruck slip at that end
Add in a few sawzall blades and some welding/aligning time....
$300-400, if you upgrade brake pads and other misc stuff. End result is a fine spline FJ40 4.11 diff, interchangable with the front, 30-spline minitruck shafts with plenty of 4340 options out there (PolyPro is $420 IIRC), relatively light weight and good clearance, no c-clips, and low cost.
Ya insist on an e-brake? keep the stock minitruck drums and run the stock e-brake, or run eldorado calipers...or do what I did and run an electric line lock.
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