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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I got my axles in place with the links bolted up but had a few quick questions - some are more general opinion than true questions...

1. First off from what I have searched it appears there are no dificulties with swapping the knuckles 180 degrees on a rear steer app. so the tie rod is in front of the axle... yes?

2. I am planning on mounting my steering ram off the tie rod and the bulge of the third member on the long axle side - I am wondering of anyone runs the OEM tierod with a hydraulic ram attached to it - space is tight but I believe the duece stuff should be up to the task...

3. As for flipping the rear center section 180 so the pinion flange is centered how did those folks who have done this dealt with the two little notches in the housing... Two of my new stud holes line up so the notch is visible in the mounting hole for the third member... (to get the alignment 180 degrees out I took out all but the two studs at the axle tube edge on each side - the diff then fit on these and looks square in the housing - yes?)

What are the thoughts on leaving these two studs with the compromised holes out of the final picture??? Or should I drill them as best they can be drilled; then just weld a stud in...

4. Does anyone have a pair of extra kingpin caps - I want to get rid of the steering arms and will gladly trade them or buy a pair of the standard (OEM pass side kingpin cap) I have plans for a set of brackets off these and would like them all to be the same. If you have put high steer arms on your axle I could definitely put the spares to use...

5. Last one I swear! - When figuring out the link brackets up front I had a brain fart and forgot how wide the rotor I am using for my pinion brake is (the brakes are going on the side of the third member that faces the center of the vehicle) ... I am short by about 1/2" - does it make more sense to notch the link or have the rotor turned down a 1/2"... The links are way overkill; I would think the caliper will eat pads pretty quick of it has that big of a gap... - as for the links with a .365 wall and 2.3" OD when you count the outer tube and the inner sleaving they should not mind a little notching? - I was planning to use some of the left over outer shell stuff to make a curved notch in the link after welding the shell and sleaving together once the cut has been made to size... Any thoughts? (and no I don't want to run the brake on the front flange as it will stick out too far and suck in hapless spotters :flipoff2: Thanks guys

Matt
 

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Discussion Starter #2
No imput huh....

No one has any thoughts either way.... Oh well - I guess I will post up when I am done so every one can tell me I've done it all wrong :flipoff2:

Matt
 

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1. True

2. The stock tierod is thin and weak but it will hold up to the full hydro. It just doesn't hold up to the rocks. I believe 350Samurai has his ram mounted like you described.

3. EDIT: I see what you're saying now. I'm planning on drilling out the diff instead of tapping the axle housing so I'm not really sure here.

4. Nope sorry.

5. No advice here.
 

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wanderingwillys said:
1. First off from what I have searched it appears there are no dificulties with swapping the knuckles 180 degrees on a rear steer app. so the tie rod is in front of the axle... yes?
like convertiyota said, true

wanderingwillys said:
2. I am planning on mounting my steering ram off the tie rod and the bulge of the third member on the long axle side - I am wondering of anyone runs the OEM tierod with a hydraulic ram attached to it - space is tight but I believe the duece stuff should be up to the task...
I run mine this way and it works just fine, but I would get rid of the stock tie rod. I bent mine just from steering. Either sleeve your stock one or just make a new one out of 5/8" and save yourself the trouble of doing it later.

wanderingwillys said:

3. As for flipping the rear center section 180 so the pinion flange is centered how did those folks who have done this dealt with the two little notches in the housing... Two of my new stud holes line up so the notch is visible in the mounting hole for the third member... (to get the alignment 180 degrees out I took out all but the two studs at the axle tube edge on each side - the diff then fit on these and looks square in the housing - yes?)
I have only seen this done once, and they had re-drilled the housing and used the factory studs back in the new holes. And yes, it is square in the housing.

wanderingwillys said:
What are the thoughts on leaving these two studs with the compromised holes out of the final picture??? Or should I drill them as best they can be drilled; then just weld a stud in...
I would say that if you are not using the third member as a mounting point for your suspension,then leaving these two studs out probably won't hurt anything. If it was me doing it, I would find a way to put them in, but I tend to be a little hard on parts.;)

wanderingwillys said:
4. Does anyone have a pair of extra kingpin caps -
Nope, sorry

wanderingwillys said:
5. Last one I swear! - When figuring out the link brackets up front I had a brain fart and forgot how wide the rotor I am using for my pinion brake is (the brakes are going on the side of the third member that faces the center of the vehicle) ... I am short by about 1/2" - does it make more sense to notch the link or have the rotor turned down a 1/2"...
Why not use a smaller rotor? I have seen a rig with what almost looked like a motorcycle rotor on it. It was about the same as what you see on an aftermarket driveline emergency brake. It had a small single piston Wilwood caliper on it and the owner seemed to be able to stop just fine, although I never did ask him about it. He had this same setup on both axles. He was running 48" tires too, if that matters.
 

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3. Turning the chunk, no need to worry about those notches, they are not needed. With some weld on the inside you can drill and tap those last to studs. 4. I have those caps. steve differential eng. inc.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks guys should be every thing I need for now... I got the 1/4 ellip springs for the back mounted yesterday - just need to build some shackles tonight... I will get some pics up later

Matt :p
 

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i'm thinking of getting a set of 2 1/2 ton rockwells, any words of advice on what to look for, an do they come with lockers or not?
 

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As for spinning the centersection I did it the opposite way. I drilled the flange on the pullout centersection and keep the studs where they are orginally located. I borrowed these neat dowel pins that you screw into the hoel where the studs go and then set the centersection down on it and it marks where your holes should be. Then I put in the drill press and drilled the holes. I threaded the old holes to 1/4 inch pipe thread and put pipe plugs into it. I did it this way because I didn't like the way the holes were located on the housing when you redrill the housing. Not to mention two of the holes you can't redrill. I will post some pics of the pins tonight. Good Luck.
 

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onetonwillysands10 said:
As for spinning the centersection I did it the opposite way. I drilled the flange on the pullout centersection and keep the studs where they are orginally located. I borrowed these neat dowel pins that you screw into the hoel where the studs go and then set the centersection down on it and it marks where your holes should be. Then I put in the drill press and drilled the holes. I threaded the old holes to 1/4 inch pipe thread and put pipe plugs into it. I did it this way because I didn't like the way the holes were located on the housing when you redrill the housing. Not to mention two of the holes you can't redrill. I will post some pics of the pins tonight. Good Luck.
Brian, I assume that you left the two studs that the chunk still fits on when it is reversed, in there, so that it was lined up correctly, and the dowels were shorter than the studs. Are the dowels sharp enough on the ends or did you put a point on them? Sounds like a great idea, I'm anxious to see those pics.
 

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Tim,
They work great and are plenty sharp enough to leave a mark. I left the two studs on each side that stay the same. I screwed the dowels in and then sat the centersection down. Tightened up the nuts on the four studs that are on the sides that stay the same.I gave a extra tap around the edges to be sure since I had never used them before and presto. Below is a picture of the dowels.
 

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Here is the finished product. If you notice you can't even tell where the old holes used to be. I threaded the holes from the bottom side and put the 1/4 pipe plugs in from the bottom side. The little dowels are kinda expensive ;but, they are seriously great to use. I used another set of 3/8 dowels to mark the holes on the underside of the "helmet" that goes over the top of my centersection(where the links attach to) to mark the holes for the bolts in top where the inspection cover used to be.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Onetonwillys - Those studs have my attention - of course yesterday I bought a tap and drill bit to move the studs :flipoff2: and then you had to post these little guys...

Where did you get them from - they would and do work awesome for this application - I need to find some - much cleaner solution than drilling the house...

Thanks

Matt

Here are some shots of what I got so far: (it sits about 4" taller than it will be - final height is 86" to the top of the cage.... )





 

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what size tire are you going to be running? the reason i am asking is it looks like your rear tires may hit your springs when you turn. or it could be the angle the pic was taken.

Jeremy
 

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onetonwillysands10 said:
The little dowels are kinda expensive ;but, they are seriously great to use.
I'd say, if you were to rent those things out a few times, you would have them paid for in no time. ;)

That's a great idea, best rockwell tech I've seen in a while.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Big

1600r20's (53" Michelin XL's) - the angle is a little strange as I have 26" from the kingpin grease fitting to the edge of the spring at full steering lock - the tire will actually ride outward about 1.5" from that point but if needed I will weld a chunk of 1/4" plate under the steering stops if I need to...

The real tight area is going to be up front at the fender edge - I have about 35" of body width up there and depending how much the tire leans inward under articulation will be what limits either the turn radius or the uptravel depending on which I need more (uptravel will be on the chopping block before the turning radius)

Matt
 

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That is looking wicked cool, however I have to ask. Why are you making the Belly hang down so low? It looks like it is hanging REALLY low in the pics. How much belly clearance do you have?

Whats the wheelbase right now?

Keep it up.


Sean
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Station said:
That is looking wicked cool, however I have to ask. Why are you making the Belly hang down so low? It looks like it is hanging REALLY low in the pics. How much belly clearance do you have?

Whats the wheelbase right now?

Keep it up.


Sean
Thanks Sean - sooner or later I will be after you for a valve and some pump/ general system advice :D

As for the height of the belly it really looks low but in those pics it is 27.5" to 28" off the ground depending where you measure it... I am shooting for 24" - 25" off the ground (frame down 3 or 4 in relation to the axles and then the tires will lift the whole deal 1" or 2" for a net loss of a couple of inches )

I could have probably squeezed the tranny in saving an extra inch or so out of the tunnel by raising the belly but I would rather be able to take stuff in and out without lube and a prybar :rolleyes: I am also planning on running a takeoff shaft from the alternator pulley that would drive a decent sized hydro pump which will live in the passenger side rocker panel dead space...

The motor will sit very low - trans pan and oil pan sump are about 1/2" to 3/4" off those 2x3 crossmembers - this puts the valve cover about 8" short of the hood (also needed it so low to clear the booster for the brakes)

The current WB is 128" but that puts me at a very similar ratio to my XJ (WB = 105") which has 20" under the belly (I touch or hit it very rarely) and 38.5's - since the rear ride height will be adjustable I wont mind being a belly dragger too much as I can just bump up the rear of the frame to clear little hang ups... ;) How's the caddywompus coming these days!?

Matt
 
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