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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I searched, and came up with a lot of good info. But I was starting to get lost in the quantities and babble, so I'm just going to ask:

I'm thinking of getting some mog axles to put into my new buggy that I plan to build. It's going to have my current LPG 350, TH350, 203-Atlas 3.0 doubler in it and I would like to be able to use my current 8-lug 15" beadlocks with the 44" TSL's. (At least for a while.)

With my long drivetrain, I'll already be fighting with driveshaft angles with a 108" wheelbase. The mog pinion length makes me fear. :) I don't plan to do rear steer either, and from what I gather, the rear mog axles are offset anyway. So what I was thinking was that I would get some junkyard Ford 9" axles, cut out the center sections, and use them upside down with the mog portal units on the outside to get a shorter, higher pinion. This is what JR did, right? What all is involved with this? How custom can I get shafts for a down to earth price? Will my 15" rims fit with a disk brake conversion? I would be going for a little over 80" wide with the 44's in anticipation of getting some 40" BFG's on larger rims in the future. Is all of this feasable?

J. J.
 

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For Kayla
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patooyee said:
I searched, and came up with a lot of good info. But I was starting to get lost in the quantities and babble, so I'm just going to ask:

I'm thinking of getting some mog axles to put into my new buggy that I plan to build. It's going to have my current LPG 350, TH350, 203-Atlas 3.0 doubler in it and I would like to be able to use my current 8-lug 15" beadlocks with the 44" TSL's. (At least for a while.)

With my long drivetrain, I'll already be fighting with driveshaft angles with a 108" wheelbase. The mog pinion length makes me fear. :) I don't plan to do rear steer either, and from what I gather, the rear mog axles are offset anyway. So what I was thinking was that I would get some junkyard Ford 9" axles, cut out the center sections, and use them upside down with the mog portal units on the outside to get a shorter, higher pinion. This is what JR did, right? What all is involved with this? How custom can I get shafts for a down to earth price? Will my 15" rims fit with a disk brake conversion? I would be going for a little over 80" wide with the 44's in anticipation of getting some 40" BFG's on larger rims in the future. Is all of this feasable?

J. J.
rather than paying full price for the mogs, why don't you just by the outers from (i think) killeraxles.com. will save you some money that way. I believe that is how JRs axles are setup. that way you could do the custom width that you wanted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I wasn't aware that they sold just the outers. I'll probably call Wolfgang up tomorrow.

J. J.
 

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I think that there are some oiling issues that have to be dealt with when running the 9inch pigs upside down. I know that the guys who build and sell these axles know how to remedy this problem, but I'm not sure just how they do it. It would probably be worth putting a little research into this.
 

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Forgot to mention that I contacted ctm about some custom shafts for this application, and surprisingly they weren't too expensive (though I still wouldn't call them cheap). I don't want to post the price, but they're worth considering.
 

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patooyee said:
I'm thinking of getting some mog axles to put into my new buggy that I plan to build. It's going to have my current LPG 350, TH350, 203-Atlas 3.0 doubler in it and I would like to be able to use my current 8-lug 15" beadlocks with the 44" TSL's. (At least for a while.)

With my long drivetrain, I'll already be fighting with driveshaft angles with a 108" wheelbase. The mog pinion length makes me fear. :) I don't plan to do rear steer either, and from what I gather, the rear mog axles are offset anyway. So what I was thinking was that I would get some junkyard Ford 9" axles, cut out the center sections, and use them upside down with the mog portal units on the outside to get a shorter, higher pinion. This is what JR did, right? What all is involved with this? How custom can I get shafts for a down to earth price? Will my 15" rims fit with a disk brake conversion? I would be going for a little over 80" wide with the 44's in anticipation of getting some 40" BFG's on larger rims in the future. Is all of this feasable?

J. J.
For your driveline to fit, you will not be able to use MOG diffs without having REALLY short d-shafts. My WB is at 110" with MOG diffs and have a short shaft and only a NP241C transfercase. So for hybrid axles find some outer reduction boxes with the knuckles and axles, fins some 9" housings and make 'em. I have been told you can have MOG inner axles resplined, but you have to use "long side" mog inners as they are thicker and don't neck down so much.

When narrowing consider that the 8-lug disc brake conversions will add ~3.5" to each side of the axle from the original WMS. I run Hummer Rims (16.5"s) on mine and they fit great. A 15" rim may need less backspacing to fit, but I imagine yours aren't offset like a hummer rim.

I would say that everything you want is feasable...Tho considering the width and the fact the disc conversion adds some and your wheel offsets will add some, the housings will be very narrow and will be difficult to stay within 80" and have decent clearance for the front diff. Hard to say not knowing your rig, engine placement, frame and such, just take good measurements. I say this because with my axles narrowed 7", and the 8-lug hubs and hummer rims (big offset)....my 42"tsls are a hair over 80" on the outside of the tires.

I can measure mine from wms with the 8-lug hubs to the knuckle mounting flange to give you something to go off of, just let me know.
 

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Well, I am doing just the same thing right now and I can shed some light on the subject.....

Wolfgang sold me the outers only for $500. Shipping from UT to TX was a whopping $300 :eek:

Since I am running a 35 spline 9" center, I had to get a spare long side axle since they are larger than the short side. It cost me around $150....maybe $175, I forgot.

If you want to run 31 spline stuff, then you can machine the long and the short sides down to work. 35 spline, 1.5" shafts will need (2) long side axles, maybe you can get them from Wolfgang instead of one long and one short like I did.

Resplining the axles are Moser's doing and they are the same on all stuff...with shipping, figure $100-$150

Sunray Engineering is doing my axle and I am trying to make it as light as possible, therefore they machined down my outer hubs and turned them to a 6 on 5.5 pattern that will fit a 15" rim.

I ditched the drum brakes and will be using a pinion brake with Eldorado calipers so I will have an emergency brake/cutting brake.

The way JR's axle builder dealt with the oiling issue was to machine a hole in the opposite end of the pinion support. Problem with this is that the ring gear is spinning backwards and will not pick up the oil as it would when it spins forward.

On my axle, Sunray has integrated an NP231 geared oiler in the pinion support to make sure the pinion is oiled at HWY speeds.

Simply machining the hole in the pinion support should allow plenty of oil to get in the pinion for a trail rig, but I use mine on the road occasionally to get to far off trailheads so I wanted to be sure.

Again, if you use the Junkyard 31 spline 9" and weld it, I think you can do this on a budget.

As for me, I am about 2K in this one in parts alone.

Mine is about ready to stick together....more infor as it goes....
 

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i didn't think of this earlier, but have you considered the volvo portals instead? they are smaller and lighter, and may fit your application a little better. that way you wouldn't have to do nearly as much work to get them to where you want to be...
 

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wngrog said:

.

The way JR's axle builder dealt with the oiling issue was to machine a hole in the opposite end of the pinion support. Problem with this is that the ring gear is spinning backwards and will not pick up the oil as it would when it spins forward.
Well, not exactly. I planned and did all the oiling modifications for my axles, I had no choice as no one else knew what to do besides using auxiliary pumps.
Front and rear R&Ps spin opposite of each other and have different requirements for gathering oil. Yes, the pinion supports have different holes drilled in them and some holes pluged up. But it's the way the oil is srapped off the ring gear, funneled to the pinion and then drained back that makes the diference between the front and rear rotations.
The bearings oil great!:D
 

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i think you would be fine with the pinion length. And as far as the 15" rim goes, you have a few choices.

1st is, you can machine down the brake drum, and cut the backing plate to fit 15" rims, but you will still have to offset them a little

2nd is, (this is what i am doin), is to eliminate the outer brakes all together, and go to a pinion brake. I am goin to run hummerz, but 15" rims will clear without a problem. An that also gets rim of alot of wieght.

I think goin the 9" center section is a little over board, unless you have $$$ to burn.
 

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Most bases are covered above, but here's a few more points:

- I don't think 15" rims will fit a disk conversion or the stock drums. I think you could use the disk brake conversion hubs & pinion brakes, but that would be spending money twice, imo.

- For shafts, one economical option, which might be reasonable for the fronts (less stress) is to have Exaxt weld 9" inners to the Mog outers. Going rate is less than $200.

- My personal opinion is pinion oiling is less of an issue than many might think if it's primarily a trailer queen (like mine: 8 hrs to nearest decent trails). I'm able to fill my axle over half full with no leaking, etc.
 

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okay, i was wrong in my previous post about it being killeraxles.com. it is actually exaxt. ca that i was thinking of.
 

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In addition, you can reverse the arms and put them in front of the axle if you have full hydro. Downside to this is that the tie rod is about even with the bottom of the axle tube - still higher than most axles, but still one of the lowest points. My rear steer is (was) behind the axle using the stock arms, but I will be going hi-steer using Weps stuff, as Rueben referred to...

My front steering is hydro assist, and I have the tie rod behind the axle using stock arms, and it just clears my 9" third member. Nice thing about this is it's somewhat protected from rocks by my lower control arms.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
More!

What is the gear reduction in the portal units? And what are the numerically LOWER gears available for 9" centers, 14-bolts, and d60's? I've looked on a few manufacturers sites and they don't start listing until 2.73-ish, but I know there is numerically lower gears available for them all.

J. J.
 

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What Wolfgang said. If you're too lazy (like me) to go to the boneyard, Currie sells used (noone makes them new anymore, to my knowledge) 2.50 & 2.75 R&P sets. I have 2.75 in mine => 5.86 overall. I love it...
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
What did the 2.5 & 2.75 ratios normally come in? Cars? I imagine the 2.5is pretty rare, and the 2.75 is very common? Is there any way to tell on the 9" without pulling the center and counting teeth or tunring the pinion and counting the turns of the wheels?

J. J.
 
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