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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Finished my "evil twin" setup last night:flipoff2:. Followed the PDF instructions email'd to me by Truck Trader and everything went together as planned. Only problem is that 2 low will not stay engaged. unless the lever is held in place by hand, it will pop out into neutral. My sticks clear the tranny tunnel, so that is not the issue, and the factory tranny tunnel boot is cut so it is not interfering with the levers ability to stay in 2 low. Any yes I did remove the detent ball. Any one have any ideas as to what the problem may be?? Here's what the final product looks like.

 

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I just PM'd you back. It could be that the left and right levers are in the wrong location. My guess is that the shift lever for the lo side is hitting the retaining cup if the handles are on the wrong side. It would "self clearance" itself with some use, but I'm sending you out another set of rods and handles just in case. Take yours out and install these with the V notch on the right side and that should correct the problem. I also sent you my phone number so let me know if you need further assistance.
 

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do you have an online version of the install instructions? The pictures in the PDF are hard to see.
 

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Lever Reversal Vs. Worn Spring

Reversal of the left and right levers may be the cause. The lever with the notch should be on the right and the lever without the notch should be on the left. The flat face of the lever should be facing forward. Also, make sure that the bushing is installed so that the slots are offset to the left of the shift tower. The hardcopy install manual has detailed diagrams - PM me a snail mail address and I'll mail you one. The PDF version diagrams apparently are not clear.

Another possibility is that the the shifter fork shaft (shift rail) locating spring is out of spec (see Factory Service Manual, Page 300, 14-12). The free length of the spring should be 23.7 mm (0.933 inch) and if less than 22.0mm (0.866 inch) it must be replaced. If it is even 23.0mm, I would replace it. The spring can easily be inspected (without removing the T-Case) by draining the oil out of the T-Case and removing the allen plug that holds the spring and ball in the center T-Case housing. Be careful not to lose the ball that is behind the spring. If the spring is short, it will not supply enough tension to hold the rail in place, causing the T-Case to slip out of gear. Replace the ball and the spring, reinstall the allen plug, refill T-Case oil.

The above steps should resolve any problem. Please contact me if you have any other questions...

Alan

BTW- Cool shift knobs!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Great Idea!

SammiEngineer,
Levers are in the correct location, and the bushing is installed correct. I completly removed the factory transmission tunnel boot and got a little better engagement, but it still wants to pop out into nuetral. The spring idea is a sure bet! Stiffer spring=more pressure on the detent ball=sure engagement. I'll call Brent at Trail Tough tomorrow and order a new spring. Thanks for the advice:D
BTW, how's the new trans tunnel boot coming along?
 

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There's a PDF for it? I missed that. Where can I download it? Thanks.
We have mailed hard copies to everyone that has purchased a kit. The last round went out a couple days ago. Let me know if you need anything else.
 

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We have mailed hard copies to everyone that has purchased a kit. The last round went out a couple days ago. Let me know if you need anything else.
I know Alan mailed one a couple of days back. I just thought there was a PDF to download that would have been just as good. Mighty perty work y'all did on the EvilTwin! Thanks, again & have a good'n'!!!

:smokin:,
Scott
 

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I started my install this afternoon, removal of the detent ball, etc.....
I have bench test fitted and now installed the assembly and started going through each detent position and mine pops out of low range also.:mad3:
I can put it in 2 low, turn the input shaft, and it pops out immediately. I pulled it out, installed the shifter bushing, put the stock shifter back in and it engages and holds. Leaving it in 2 low I finesse the shifter out, measured the throw at the shift shaft, reset the t-case to neutral, installed the evil twin, put it in two low pulled it out and measured and realized it's just about 1/16" from hitting and locking into the detent with the low-high shift shaft.
Now I can machine the shifter to achieve the needed throw, but I am concerned there is a problem with the design on some t-cases, and some others may have the same problem and not have the resources to fix it themselves.
The shift lever is bottomed against the aluminum and there is no way to get the extra throw in the shift lever without removing more material, either from the insert or from the shift lever itself.
If it's working well in some but not in others, it almost makes me think there was a difference in the shift housing on some models, gasket thickness, or ?
Mine went back together with factory gaskets and no silicone so there is nothing extra holding the shift housing out, so there may be .010 to .020 with the gasket vs. no gasket.
Any thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Shooting for Monday

Got my new spring ordered from Trail Tough. Can you say overnight UPS, $5.00 total:smokin: Thanks Linda for the quick service!

Because I run a transfer case bucket I'll have to pull the whole thing back out and remove it to get to the spring. I should have time to do this Monday. I'll post if this solves the engagement issue.
 

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Since my previous post, I have relieved the contact points to get just a touch bit more throw, re-installed the unit and tested. It engages just a touch better but still pops out.
I then started looking at position of the lever and where it needed to be to fully seat the detent ball, and what I found was the shift lever contacting the boss in the bottom of the shift bore.
Hopefully you know what I am referring too without pictures, but I need to either machine that boss larger in the left rear corner, or remove a little material from the lever so that it clears that boss in the bottom. I will be going back to work on it tommorrow and will post a synopsis when I get it working.
 

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From your post as well as two others, it appears that Suzuki had some variation in the machining of the shift towers. I don't know if this is a difference between years of manufacture, a change in their tooling, or whether this was a variation in the castings that they used to make the center section of the case. I fitted the assembly into the three transfer cases that I have and the left lever cleared the shift tower in every one of them with full excursion into the Low range position. The cases were assembled with stock gaskets and gasket sealer. I'll try to find other sample t-cases to test, and hopefully, I'll find ones with the variation that you have experienced.

The bad news is of course that there appears to be a problem with the left shift lever shape in some of the T-Cases. The good news is that this problem is easily remedied. If I understand you correctly, the bottom of the well in the shift tower (the "ledge" that the shift sheet normally bottoms against) is interfering with the rearward throw of the left (hi-low) shift lever. The remedy is to reshape the rear edge of the lower part of the lever, making a 1/16" or 3/32" notch in the face of the lever allowing it to clear the edge of the shift tower. Since the lever is made of 4340 alloy, grinding a notch of that dimension in the lever would not sacrifice any significant strength of the lever itself. I've come up with a pattern for this modification to the lever that should solve the problem as you've described it and should allow for even more variation between castings than you have in yours.

There are about three people (including yourself) who have experienced this problem. Everyone else that has assembled theirs seems to be working without a problem.

For those who have experienced this problem, I offer the following solutions:

1) Send the left lever back to me (with or without handle welded on it), I'll modify it and return it to you ASAP.

2) If you would like to do the modification yourself (it takes about 2 minutes with a fine wheeled bench grinder, I can send you a pattern either by fax or snail mail so that you can do the modification yourself.

For those of you who have not assembled/installed your kit, I would suggest making the above changes before you install it, and I offer you the same solution before you assemble and install your kit - you can either send the left lever back to me and I'll modify and return it ASAP, or I'll send you a pattern so that you can modify it yourself ...

PM me with your preference and I'll make arrangements to remedy the situation according to your choice (either send you a pattern or send you my address so that you can ship it back to me)...

It's a priority to me to make it right - Sorry 'bout the hassle,

Alan
 

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Since our posts seemed to cross, I will just figure the mod and do it myself without the pattern. Course if you could scan the image and post or e-mail it too me, that would be cool too, but it's going back together tommorrow, so by the time we figure out how to get the pattern quick, I will be done. :D

I guess us guys that were in on the pre-order were the Beta Testers? :D
 

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RE: Most evil twin

I started my install this afternoon, removal of the detent ball, etc.....
I have bench test fitted and now installed the assembly and started going through each detent position and mine pops out of low range also.
I can put it in 2 low, turn the input shaft, and it pops out immediately. I pulled it out, installed the shifter bushing, put the stock shifter back in and it engages and holds. Leaving it in 2 low I finesse the shifter out, measured the throw at the shift shaft, reset the t-case to neutral, installed the evil twin, put it in two low pulled it out and measured and realized it's just about 1/16" from hitting and locking into the detent with the low-high shift shaft.
Now I can machine the shifter to achieve the needed throw, but I am concerned there is a problem with the design on some t-cases, and some others may have the same problem and not have the resources to fix it themselves.
The shift lever is bottomed against the aluminum and there is no way to get the extra throw in the shift lever without removing more material, either from the insert or from the shift lever itself.
If it's working well in some but not in others, it almost makes me think there was a difference in the shift housing on some models, gasket thickness, or ?
Mine went back together with factory gaskets and no silicone so there is nothing extra holding the shift housing out, so there may be .010 to .020 with the gasket vs. no gasket.
Any thoughts?


From your post as well as two others, it appears that Suzuki had some variation in the machining of the shift towers. I don't know if this is a difference between years of manufacture, a change in their tooling, or whether this was a variation in the castings that they used to make the center section of the case. I fitted the assembly into the three transfer cases that I have and the left lever cleared the shift tower in every one of them with full excursion into the Low range position. The cases were assembled with stock gaskets and gasket sealer. I'll try to find other sample t-cases to test, and hopefully, I'll find ones with the variation that you have experienced.

The bad news is of course that there appears to be a problem with the left shift lever shape in some of the T-Cases. The good news is that this problem is easily remedied. If I understand you correctly, the bottom of the well in the shift tower (the "ledge" that the shift sheet normally bottoms against) is interfering with the rearward throw of the left (hi-low) shift lever. The remedy is to reshape the rear edge of the lower part of the lever, making a 1/16" or 3/32" notch in the face of the lever allowing it to clear the edge of the shift tower. Since the lever is made of 4340 alloy, grinding a notch of that dimension in the lever would not sacrifice any significant strength of the lever itself. I've come up with a pattern for this modification to the lever that should solve the problem as you've described it and should allow for even more variation between castings than you have in yours.

There are about three people (including yourself) who have experienced this problem. Everyone else that has assembled theirs seems to be working without a problem.

For those who have experienced this problem, I offer the following solutions:

1) Send the left lever back to me (with or without handle welded on it), I'll modify it and return it to you ASAP.

2) If you would like to do the modification yourself (it takes about 2 minutes with a fine wheeled bench grinder, I can send you a pattern either by fax or snail mail so that you can do the modification yourself.

For those of you who have not assembled/installed your kit, I would suggest making the above changes before you install it, and I offer you the same solution before you assemble and install your kit - you can either send the left lever back to me and I'll modify and return it ASAP, or I'll send you a pattern so that you can modify it yourself ...

PM me with your preference and I'll make arrangements to remedy the situation according to your choice (either send you a pattern or send you my address so that you can ship it back to me)...

It's a priority to me to make it right - Sorry 'bout the hassle,

Alan
 

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Update:
Removed a little metal from the lever where it contacted the shift sheet flange, fitted everything back together, and now 2-low is positive detent actuation, as in snap. Shift rods are bent, welded and now cooling. In just a short time, I will be heading out to try them out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Option #2

From your post as well as two others, it appears that Suzuki had some variation in the machining of the shift towers. I don't know if this is a difference between years of manufacture, a change in their tooling, or whether this was a variation in the castings that they used to make the center section of the case. I fitted the assembly into the three transfer cases that I have and the left lever cleared the shift tower in every one of them with full excursion into the Low range position. The cases were assembled with stock gaskets and gasket sealer. I'll try to find other sample t-cases to test, and hopefully, I'll find ones with the variation that you have experienced.

The bad news is of course that there appears to be a problem with the left shift lever shape in some of the T-Cases. The good news is that this problem is easily remedied. If I understand you correctly, the bottom of the well in the shift tower (the "ledge" that the shift sheet normally bottoms against) is interfering with the rearward throw of the left (hi-low) shift lever. The remedy is to reshape the rear edge of the lower part of the lever, making a 1/16" or 3/32" notch in the face of the lever allowing it to clear the edge of the shift tower. Since the lever is made of 4340 alloy, grinding a notch of that dimension in the lever would not sacrifice any significant strength of the lever itself. I've come up with a pattern for this modification to the lever that should solve the problem as you've described it and should allow for even more variation between castings than you have in yours.

There are about three people (including yourself) who have experienced this problem. Everyone else that has assembled theirs seems to be working without a problem.

For those who have experienced this problem, I offer the following solutions:

1) Send the left lever back to me (with or without handle welded on it), I'll modify it and return it to you ASAP.

2) If you would like to do the modification yourself (it takes about 2 minutes with a fine wheeled bench grinder, I can send you a pattern either by fax or snail mail so that you can do the modification yourself.

For those of you who have not assembled/installed your kit, I would suggest making the above changes before you install it, and I offer you the same solution before you assemble and install your kit - you can either send the left lever back to me and I'll modify and return it ASAP, or I'll send you a pattern so that you can modify it yourself ...

PM me with your preference and I'll make arrangements to remedy the situation according to your choice (either send you a pattern or send you my address so that you can ship it back to me)...

It's a priority to me to make it right - Sorry 'bout the hassle,

Alan
SammiEngineer,
Please email me some onfo on the modifications to the shift lever. It would be alot better for me if i could fix the problem from the top instead of dropping the case to replace the spring. Thanks!
 

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Hi-Lo Lever modification

SammiEngineer,
Please email me some onfo on the modifications to the shift lever. It would be alot better for me if i could fix the problem from the top instead of dropping the case to replace the spring. Thanks!
I've been working on an "emailable" template for the left lever modification. Once again I've been dealing with the problem of Adobe Acrobat distorting the dimensions of the diagram - I've actually resorted to "trial and error" enlarging and shrinking the image using Photoshop and running it through Adobe Acrobat (I've now done this exercise about 25 times) to tweak the dimensions in the final PDF image so that they're correct. I hope to be DONE with this within the next few hours and I'll email it to you as soon as I can...

Thanks for your patience,

Alan
 

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SammiEngineer,
Please email me some onfo on the modifications to the shift lever. It would be alot better for me if i could fix the problem from the top instead of dropping the case to replace the spring. Thanks!
Pull the shifter out, put a thin layer of grease on the inside lip of that boss the shifter sheet rests on, re-install the shifter. Push the 2-low lever against it, reset it to neutral, pull it out, look at the mark the grease left on the left shift lever, mark it with a sharpie, dis-assemble, grind about 1/16 just a wee bit outside your marks (I actually tapered from the mark in kind of a cresent shape), re-assemble, install, test, repeat if necessary, DONE. :D

Mine is installed and tested. Works excellent! Will post a couple pics of my own later.
 
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