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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Motorcraft 2150, installing PCV fitting. EDIT: rust cleanup?

Tried this over in the newbie forum but I guess since it's not an aftermarket bolt on mod I didn't get much for responses.

Since these are well known and commonly used carbs for conversions, this might be a better location for this post.

>>>>>

Going to do the Motorcraft swap in my '82 CJ-7 with a 258. Looked up lots of info around here about it but most all reference using a 2100 OR 2150 with a fitting already in it for the PCV connection.

I was wondering, since I already have this perfectly rebuildable 2150 w/1.08 from a '79 Ford 302, if I could drill and tap a fitting into it and make the provisions for the PCV. My biggest concern here is lack of clearance inside the carb where I would drill the hole. It might then be possible to tighten the fitting to much and make contact with an inside wall and inadvertantly plug it.

Here is my carb;






My other option is to install the thick spacer that has the EGR valve and PCV fitting already in it. My concern here would be the added height. I figure if I decided to go this route I could just make a throttle bracket (since I have to anyway to adapt to the throttle rod) that reaches a bit farther down instead of lengthening the rod. Typically you make a plate that is shaped like an L, in this case I would shape it like this (roughly :flipoff2:);

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| -----| |
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OR

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\ \
\ \
\ \___
_____|



Let me know what you guys think.

Jordan
 

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Why not? Machine/dremel out the back between the bores (for clearance) then drill and tap it with a pipe thread. Go down to HD and get a NPT-hose fitting.

At least that's what I'd do.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I just took the carb apart tonight for a good cleaning and found a whole bunch of rust inside. The float bowl was coated as well as the fuel adjustment needle.

Rust powder came out when I unscrewed that needle.

I've rebuilt a handful of carbs but none with this much rust, should it still be considered cleanable or should I ditch it for another? I've got it soaking in Chem-Dip but I'm not sure if it's going to tackle this type of cleaning or not.

Here's a picture, it's worse under the float, but you get the idea;



thanks
 

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it's still looks salvageable if the chem dip removes the rust. those are fairly easy to come by, so if the results suck then try and score another.
 

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Just get another one, Its not worth the hassels. My 2100 and my 2150 both have the PCV fitting on the back. You just have to get a later model one.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thats what I was thinking Steve. Any small left over grains of rust could cause a real headache out on the trail. I'll see how the carb looks tonight when I pull it out of the Chem-dip. Unless that stuff does a remarkable job of cleaning it I'll find another to work with.

Thanks,
Jordan
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The Chem-dip did a surprisingly decent job of cleaning up the float bowl. I still don't feel comfortable with it since there is no way of really knowing what the passageways are like even after blowing tons of air and carb cleaner through them.

I'm going to look for another one.....

P.S. if anyone has one to sell, drop me a line.
 
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