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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Here's my dillema: My 35's rub like crazy, to the point I swear I'm tearin off rubber everytime I rub (thats wat she said:laughing:). I've clearanced my wheel well best as I can, but that's just not doin it. I have no idea what kinda springs I have up front, got em with the truck, like a 3 inch lift or so. But I the pin is just too far back.

Since I plan on 3-linking it I really don't want to drop money on whole new springs, forward spring hangers, etc. Unfortunately that won't be for a while. Ive read up on drilling a new pin hole. Drilling a new one that puts the old one outside of the plate is spring suicide.
I'd like to get your opinion on just how far i could SAFELY drill a new one, or at all? Even 1 inch would help a lot!

I'm runnin marlin's u-bolt flip kit up front and stock spring perches on an 84 front.
 

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you can safely go 1-1/2". check your pitman arm / tierod clearance though. prolly have to push the box forward.
Yup--what the man who lives in a van by the river said :D

You can go farther by welding a plate to the perch but at that point you will loose flex due to the weight being aplied to the springs is a lil messed up...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Here's my dillema: My 35's rub like crazy, to the point I swear I'm tearin off rubber everytime I rub (thats wat she said:laughing:). I've clearanced my wheel well best as I can, but that's just not doin it. I have no idea what kinda springs I have up front, got em with the truck, like a 3 inch lift or so. But I the pin is just too far back.

Since I plan on 3-linking it I really don't want to drop money on whole new springs, forward spring hangers, etc. Unfortunately that won't be for a while. Ive read up on drilling a new pin hole. Drilling a new one that puts the old one outside of the plate is spring suicide.
I'd like to get your opinion on just how far i could SAFELY drill a new one, or at all? Even 1 inch would help a lot!

I'm runnin marlin's u-bolt flip kit up front and stock spring perches on an 84 front.
Dammit crash, can't ya read:flipoff2:
 

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Mine's moved back on the perch 1 3/8 " and worked out pretty good. Don't forget to match that distance on the u-bolt plate. Simple-easy-done!


Crash is probably seeing double, so it's easy for him to miss some stuff. :laughing:
 

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Dammit crash, can't ya read:flipoff2:
Mine's moved back on the perch 1 3/8 " and worked out pretty good. Don't forget to match that distance on the u-bolt plate. Simple-easy-done!


Crash is probably seeing double, so it's easy for him to miss some stuff. :laughing:
My bad--going 10 ways at once some times :D If I remember correctly the 84 housing should have one hole already there on the drivers side(85 housings do) so all you have to do is match the passenger side. Then all you have to do is redrill the spring plates for the center pin ;)
 

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FWIW:

I'm currently running the stock push pull and moved it fwd 1.75" using plates......and from the fit, it looks like that's about as much as possible without reworking other things.

Made plates, angle saw'd the steering rod. Sleeved it. Rosette welded it and welded the ends up. Reinstalled. Done and back driving in 2 hours.

My 35 BFG M/T's on 9" wheels barely rub the pinchweld at full stuff and at lock whylst still at stock height.
If I could of gone 2", I think the 35's would clear even the pinchweld.
 

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Quote- Ive read up on drilling a new pin hole. Drilling a new one that puts the old one outside of the plate is spring suicide.

You do know that you redrill the perch and not the spring, right?
 

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I was in a similar situation, although I am not going to be linking this anytime soon, so my fix is permanent. I did not notice when I bought the yota the front suspension was not set up right at all. The SAS spring hanger holes for the leaf springs were not directly under the body bushing bolt hole like I have seen on here since I have been searching. I took out my rear packs and put in chevy's. I used a couple of the front leafs and added them to the rears to bring the axle forward two inches.

The springs are longer so it gave me 35 degree shackle angle and the hole for the front bolt is only 14mm instead of 18mm. So I made some plates drilled to 14mm to weld onto the front hanger. Once I did this i was able to cycle the suspension. The pitman arm kissed the tie rod on compression and the shackle end bottomed out on the frame.

Make sure you dont do all this work just to have to do it right down the road. I have since ordered a marlin crawler front hanger and 5 inch leaves. Grinding off the front hanger was a bitch but in the end it was the right thing to do. I have to move my steering box forward also.
 

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Is it just me, or does any one else think that with 3 inch lift springs and 35in tires, that it should not be rubing that bad. Are you sure you dont have your springs on the wrong way? Moving your axle back 1 inch insted of forward 1 inch. just a thought :flipoff2:
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Quote- Ive read up on drilling a new pin hole. Drilling a new one that puts the old one outside of the plate is spring suicide.

You do know that you redrill the perch and not the spring, right?
Well I started this thread thinkin i was gonna drill the spring, then i realized i was being stupid:homer:

Is it just me, or does any one else think that with 3 inch lift springs and 35in tires, that it should not be rubing that bad. Are you sure you dont have your springs on the wrong way? Moving your axle back 1 inch insted of forward 1 inch. just a thought
You know what that is VERY possible, this truck was beyond redneck when i got it. I've never even checked. I'm gonna go check that right now.
 

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Cut the eye's off the lift springs and toss them under some first gen rears (replacable bushings just like the fronts) with some 5" center to center shackles. Then re-drill the perches 1 3/8" and you'll gain about 3 1/2" of clearance at the back of the wheelwell. It'll only raise your rig about 1" over where it is now and it'll work much better.
 
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