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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I am trying to move my front axle forward by drilling my spring perches, I am also going to be installing a ubolt flip kit at the same time. I am looking for any advice or a write up or pitfalls that I need to avoid. Im sure info is out there I just can't find it. So bring on the flame fest and hopefully some good info at the same time. Thanks!
 

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Wow Dude, this one was burned out 10-11 years ago. Your search skills suck! :laughing:

You can drill new pin holes 1 1/4"- 1 3/8" back on the perches and match them on your new spring plates. I did this so long ago I don't even remember the hole size......maybe 9/16" or 5/8". Really simple mod Bud.:homer:
 

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:homer:drill hole in perch, drill hole in ubolt flip plate done:homer:

that fact that you obviously know what the mod is, confuses me that you have any questions at all about this
 

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if you still have push/pull you can install rufs and retain all the stock steering, it sucks but you can. with the rufs the axle moves foward but also with the rufs you get lift so the stock drag/zlink/pitman whatever will still work, my buddy ran that for a few years with out huge issues
 

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OP either has crossover or isn't thinking things out, a ubolt flip kit isn't compatible with push pull steering. There's not enough clearance for the j arm and spring plate to occupy the same real estate.
 

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OP either has crossover or isn't thinking things out, a ubolt flip kit isn't compatible with push pull steering. There's not enough clearance for the j arm and spring plate to occupy the same real estate.
How bout if you flip the ball in the J arm?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I do have crossover steering and I have heard a lot about this mod but I am a cautious person and always want to be sure of what I am doing before I attemp a new mod. Thank you for all of the responses. One big question is how do I match the ubolt plates to the holes in the perches?
 

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How bout if you flip the ball in the J arm?
Perhaps, but the braked edges of the plate would need to be clearanced and the thickness of the spring pack would factor in too. It'd still all be really close and have potential for binding or catching, neither scenario in the steering system is safe.

Damn Dude.....flipped j-arm ball stud craze seems like eons ago. Never was reliable (or safe) on my rig. I tried twice and yeah.......:homer:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for the help, I understand this was a fairly dumb question. I also have a fuel cell question. I have a RCI cell with one outlet and one tap for a tip over valve. How do I plumb a fuel cell to a 22RE with only two ports?
 

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twinger1 One big question is how do I match the ubolt plates to the holes in the perches?[/QUOTE said:
See below VVV :laughing: Same as the perch, measure back from the centerline of the pin hole the amount you moved it on the axle.


I used a tape measure......
Best advice ever! PCE for the win.
 

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I have a high steer kit on mine and just finished moving my axle forward. I had to move my steering box the same amount. It required a small amount of clearancing the core support and welding tube in the frame where the bolts mount. I also clocked the steering box slightly up to get a better angle on the steering shaft. The top bolt ended up being about 1/2" from the top of the frame. .
 

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when i built my axle forward i welded a peace 1/4 plate on the pass side perch and a peace of 1/2 plate on the driver side and drilled the new holes for the leaf springs in those.... i moved mine like 3/4 of an inch forward..
 
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