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Box

When I Moved The Box Up On Mine I Moved Forward About 2.5 To 3" Not Exact Science But One Thing I Did To Help W/ The Correct Rotation Of The Box And How High To Mount It I Tied In A Piece String From Front Hanger To Rear Shackle As If Shackel Was Flat From Compresion And Then While Mounting Box I Made Sure There Is Nothing Below String. This Helped Me Make Sure That The Pitman Arm Bolt And The Castle Nut Were Both Above A Flat Compression. Of Course If You Dont Build Some Sort Or A Bump Stop And Go Neg Arch You Could Still Probably Hit But You Shouldn't Go Neg Arch Anyways Right???
 

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Newbi question:
When moving the box forward do you need to extend the steering shaft?
 

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Discussion Starter #23
EvlDodge said:
Newbi question:
When moving the box forward do you need to extend the steering shaft?
In my case, yes. Might get lucky and a shaft from another model truck will work, but it was simple to DIY
 

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EvlDodge said:
Newbi question:
When moving the box forward do you need to extend the steering shaft?
Look above newb!! :flipoff2: Some do, some don't. Some you can drill out the pins and have enough. Mine, I moved as far forward as Bones and cut the shaft and welded in some solid stock. Beefy as hell!! Either way is pretty easy. Also, on some you can use an IFS shaft, but I don't know much about these.
 

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To extend the shaft, get some solid stock, cut the shaft and lay it all in a piece of angle iron and weld up. Not a hard DIY at all. I got hooked up by Homegrown for some solid stock, so that was cool. Thanks again TJ!
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I sleeved mine with some tube and plug welded the snot out of it. Didn't think butt welding some solid stock would be as strong or as straight.
 

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when i moved mine forward (stock ifs set up) i was able to reuse my stock shaft with some easy modifications. the stock shaft has a plastic pin holding the two pices together. i think they prob used plastic to allow the shaft to collapse in the event of an accident instead of shoving the steering colum into the drivers chest. on mine i removed the plastic and extended the telescoping shaft then drilled a hole through both pices for a 1/8" roll pin. i felt with my set up there was still plenty of over lap with the two pices of the shaft to be safe. i did not rotate my pitman arm up as much as others so my shaft length didn't have to change much. in this pic you can see where mine is mounted. i don't rember exactly how far forward it is but the front is against the body mount. prob 2 to 2-1/2" or so. i wish it could go about 1/2" more but i will survive. the tre at the pitman arm just touches the center link in certain situations. not enough to wory me but i still don't like any interferance.
 

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Bones said:
I sleeved mine with some tube and plug welded the snot out of it. Didn't think butt welding some solid stock would be as strong or as straight.
Mine's working fine. Like said, just use some angle iron to keep it straight and weld by carrying over the solid stock metal onto the existing shaft. Plenty strong!! :grinpimp:
 

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300sniper said:
when i moved mine forward (stock ifs set up) i was able to reuse my stock shaft with some easy modifications. the stock shaft has a plastic pin holding the two pices together. i think they prob used plastic to allow the shaft to collapse in the event of an accident instead of shoving the steering colum into the drivers chest. on mine i removed the plastic and extended the telescoping shaft then drilled a hole through both pices for a 1/8" roll pin. i felt with my set up there was still plenty of over lap with the two pices of the shaft to be safe.

I did the same thing, just drilled out the plastic.
But I did not put back in a pin.
I just left the 2 shafts so they can slide, which makes for quick disassembly of the steering.
 

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toy4crawlin said:
What'a guys using for extending the shaft?
just make sure ur shaft is long enuff!! I put a body lift on my 86 and did not stretch the shaft. Had the rag joint pull of the box at about 30mph :eek: . Not something to have happen at a high rate of speed :grinpimp: . Can we say brake check!!
 

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Another dumb Newbie Question

If you rotate the steering box can you just put the tie rod in from above instead of below and run the original bent pitman arm? Will the link hit the arm when the axle moves down? Could you create a little clearance by grinding on the pitman arm?
 

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I thought id ad some tips and pics...

I ran into only a few problems or setbacks thru the process of mounting my IFS and installing hysteer. i have a few tips for anyone about to do this mod.

1. Dont get tooo drunk and try and do this shit. especially when you go to cut out the front of the body between the radiator and body mount. There is an AC line there to the condensor on the trucks with AC. If you cut that line on accident your AC is done for. and your shop or garage will fill up with frion.

2. I welded the sleeves to the plate and drilled the frame wider to accomidate for the weld bead. when you weld the sleeves, MAKE SURE you weld them with the other plate in place with the bolts thru to keep everythig squared up. Otherwise the sleeves will warp slightly and they wont line up with the other plate, and then you have to grind them off and start over!

3. There are 2 lines on the sector shaft of the IFS box if your installing a new pitman arm, you must aline the lines on the pitman arm to the lines on the sector shaft, otherwise your heims on the pass side will probably touch.

here are a few pics of how mine turned out.













No more bump steer!! and it no longer pulls to the right when i brake hard!!
 

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toyboat said:
I thought id ad some tips and pics...

I ran into only a few problems or setbacks thru the process of mounting my IFS and installing hysteer. i have a few tips for anyone about to do this mod.

1. Dont get tooo drunk and try and do this shit. especially when you go to cut out the front of the body between the radiator and body mount. There is an AC line there to the condensor on the trucks with AC. If you cut that line on accident your AC is done for. and your shop or garage will fill up with frion.

2. I welded the sleeves to the plate and drilled the frame wider to accomidate for the weld bead. when you weld the sleeves, MAKE SURE you weld them with the other plate in place with the bolts thru to keep everythig squared up. Otherwise the sleeves will warp slightly and they wont line up with the other plate, and then you have to grind them off and start over!..........No more bump steer!! and it no longer pulls to the right when i brake hard!!
from just moving your box forward it stopped pulling to the right from hard breaking, or did you also add high steer as well? the steering looked like it was new.
 

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i went from stock steering with pushpull using a 4in drop dragling to hysteer
my truck used to be all over the road, now its pretty steady
 

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toyboat said:
i went from stock steering with pushpull using a 4in drop dragling to hysteer
my truck used to be all over the road, now its pretty steady
hmm. alright. cause the only thing i havent done is plate/move my box foward yet.
 

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caster?

I just did mine similar to those shown above and it has crazy death wobble. What should the caster angle be? I know each truck is different but what would be a good place to start? The other thing that is wierd is that since my SAS and crossover, the truck takes a lot more steeiring input to turn the same amount. Do I need to somehow lengthen my pitman arm? My runner has Sky's steering with rears up front. The box is up against the body mount and the Sky spring mount is pushed up to the furthest setting.
 

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i moved mine too far foward. even with the axel moved 3" foward, my tie rod doesnt colide with my pitman arm. it was so far foward that i had to build something to protect it. then i built a stinger that i didnt really want. then i plummed it for hydro and now i have lines sticking out the front. then i had to built some protection for those. if i hadnt of moved it that far foward, it wouldnt be a headache right now.

 
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