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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Here is the firs pic I have of my truck.
It was stock in this picture except for some cheap lights that i put on top. The lights were not even hooked up yet.


Mad flex!


One of the first things I did was to put on some fender flares, and some bigger tires.
The tires are 265/75r16 Pro Comp All Terrains. hese tires last forever but are not a very good off road tire.




A shot of the hood scoop.
This hood scoop is an Ebay special that fits most cars. I think it cost around $15 dollars. It came with a cheap cheesy expanded aluminum that was promptly removed. The adhesive that came with it is very good and I have had no issues with it.I did cut a hole in the hood to try to put cold air on top of the supercharger. I couldn't tel you how well it works but it is peace of mind in Moab going slow in hot desert terrain.


After I put the flares on I quickly found out that my air intake was exposed to water and mud so I installed a snorkel.
I had removed the resonator box behind the fender, and that left the intake completely exposed to splashes.




Just before my first trip to Moab I installed a full set of skid plates, a custom rear bumper.
For the rear bumper I took a Reese hitch and flipped it upside down to raise it a few inches. Then I used the mounting brackets for the hitch to tie the bumper into. This bumper can hold the weight of the truck at the far outside corner.


One day in Moab and I knew that the front bumper had to go.


 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Just before RONIN Colorado 07 I replaced my leaf springs for a set of Alcans. I don't have any good pics to show them off.
I highly recommend Alcan springs to anyone who wants more travel/comfort. They are custom made and cost around $500 W/O shipping. They are located in Grand Junction if you want to pick them up and save on shipping.


I am thinking about using these tires after I finish the axle swap (it is taking forever!)

35x16x15in Super Swamper boggers.


I got a good deal on some Duplicolor truck bed coating and decided to give it a try (more details on the disappointing results later).






And some pics I have that are more recent with some new(to me) 33x12.5x15in grooved MTRs on 3.5bs steel rims, and a bed rack.


 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have had a few questions about how to fit a snorkel with fiberglass fenders. Basically you will have to modify a ARB Safari Snorkel to fit. You have to trim the piece that goes to the air intake about an inch so the snorkel fits under the flare, and bolt it up as usual.

The toughest part is cutting the hole for the snorkel to go through the flare. I just cut a basic shape I knew was to small with an angle grinder and finished trimming with a dremel tool. It takes some ingenuity but the end results were worth it to me.
Here's a pic of how to trim the fender.

The top looks crooked in this picture but it is an illusion.

Here are some pics of the clearances.




 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
When Rancho came out with their new RS9000XL shock there was a lot of speculation about them being to big t fit our trucks. I replaced my old shocks with a new set of the 9000XLs (Big thanks to JL) to see if they would fit.

Since the shocks are nitrogen charged the rear is stiffer over the old RS9000 shocks.

The front is a dramatic improvement over the old Calmini shocks (blew one out in Moab). The only thing about installing these shocks is it is really tough to install them with the tires still on. Since the shocks are nitrogen charged it makes it tough to line up the bottom mounting point.

Size difference is pretty obvious





They fit fine. The only rubbing is on the shock boot. Granted I have Calmini UCAs, but I think any aftermarket UCAs should work fine with these shocks.





 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Here are the results of my duplicolor adventure.

Fist as in any bed liner you need to really prep the surface. I used a green scotch brite pad to take all the clear coat, and down to the paint. Then I used paint thinner to clean off the residue.


If you going to do this it is much easier to take off all the panels you can. I also used some high heat spray paint to paint the inner fender. This paint has worked good so far with no chips from the rocks thrown by tires.




Here is how the texture turned out. It is a very smooth surface that would not lend itself well to an actual use in a bed. It would be very slippery if you tried to walk on it while wet, or oily.


And the finished product.







Now the bad.

This stuff is really just thicker paint with some texture. It chips easily, and has a chemical reaction with latex paint (or fiberglass I'm not sure)that results in a "crackled" appearance.






I have tried several times to paint over it with black spray paint but the old yellow color shows through. This is only happening on the fenders. I may try to put a thicker coat on to fix it, but if it doesn't work I may have to go with Rhino liner/lineX.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Today's progress/how to.

First thing you need to do is find out how much you want to cut off the door. I decided to cut the door where the armrest is for comfort.


This is what the door looks like on the inside with the trim off.


These little clips are what hold the bars the control the locking mechanism. To unclip them you turn them up and slide the bar out.


Here are some more clips that hold in the bars.


Here is everything you have to remove.


Here is the door stripped.


And the leftovers.


Here is the basic cut. I still need to clean it up and plate the inside and top of the door. I retained the stock outside door handle to keep things simple.


Now how to make some quick release pins for the doors.
Nissan was nice enough to mark the hinges top and bottom.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The pin is pressed in so that you have to cut it out.




If you get some cotter pins that are 5/16x2 1/2 they are a perfect fit for a replacement.


The first pins that I got were only 2in pins so they were just barely short.


I got some bigger pins that required some grinding to clear the bolts on the hinge.




That's it for today. I need to get a sheet of steel to finish it. The plan is to have a built in cup holder and a storage space.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Here are the pics of the bed rack.
I mounted it on the bedrails, and used conduit for the tubes. It is a loose fit but a few wraps of duct tape snugs it up pretty good. It wouldn't be a truck if there wasn't duct tape, and zip ties holding half of it together.





With the way I have my bed configured I had almost no room in the bed. That's why I put the rack on.
Here you can see how crammed my bed is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Got some goodies in for the swap.
I have shock mounts from ruff stuff, and the BIG spring perches, Front brake lines from summit

Front spring hanger and through frame shackles from Calmini


The All Pro johnny joint shackles


Here is some progress on the half doors.

Got them mounted




The wires were a BITCH to get to on the drivers side. Here is where they are located




And here is what you have to remove to get to them.




The passenger side was much easier to do. I already have it done, but I cant figure out how to do the drivers side yet. It needs to be extended a few inches so I can get to it without tearing out my dash every time I wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Update on the half doors.

I have everything welded up. now I just need to skin the inside, and line the outside.

I painted everything black on the inside. I did this for ease, and to seal the bare metal where I cut the doors.


Then I stripped the paint off the outside of the door in preparation for the lining.


Here is a shot of how the cutout looks. I kept the window trim so I don't have to seal the rest of the door. I personally want to thank the man who invented the flapper disk!


I plan to make a vinyl window that snaps in place in case the weather turns while I'm out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
This really doesn't have anything to do with the Nissan, but here it is. This should make camping/ ovenight wheeling trips much nicer.

Before.




After.







It's a simple Datsun bed trailer that I cleaned up and painted. I also used a heavy cloth tarp to top it, but it seems to stretch so I think I'm going to use a different type of tarp. The wheels are stock wagoner rims and crappy tires. I still need to finish up the wiring so it doesn't rub against the metal, and some odds and ends.

That's one more thing off my to do list. Now I need to finish the 1/2 doors, get the SAS done, and MAYBE a flatbed since I don't need to worry about storage anymore.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Finally got the drivers door wired up with a disconnect.

crappy cell phone pic.


The connector runs just to the right of the fuse panel.

This is the firewall connector I posted earlier in the thread. It has the perfect number of pins and is held together with a 1/4" bolt. Now by myself I can have the door off in under 5 minutes.

Now I just need to finish the doors themselves.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Also here is the door finished up with the snaps in place.


I couldn't figure out how to keep water out if it started to rain, and a friend suggested using vent visors. So here it is with with the vent visor in place. This should work pretty good.


I still haven't decided if I want to paint the doors to match the truck or not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Here's today's update on the half doors.

Got the doors mounted.


I used a sheet of aluminum to skin the inside.


I used self tapping screws to hold it in place.
I still need to make tabs that the aluminum can attach to, and put some trim around the outside, but for now it's pretty much done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Small update.

I have the axle completely torn down.

BTW this is the order everything comes out of the waggy hubs. Just thought I'd throw some tech here.


Now I'm just waiting on the knuckle to be machined, and I can start putting it all back together.

I know the floor in filthy.

I made a window that snaps into place for the half door. No pics yet.

For the snaps there are two ways to do it.

You can make your own self tapping snaps, or buy some self tapping snaps from a surplus store.

Surplus store snaps in the middle, and homemade snaps on the left.


I used the homemade snaps. I went to the local saddle shop, and picked up 25 snaps per door. Then I went to Fastenalll, and bought a bag(100) of self tapping screws


They're pretty easy to put on just measure the distance and start drilling.
 

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Nice clean job on those half doors. they look great!

Have fun with the SAS.

You may not like those angled shackles - they have to be mounted at the perfect angle not to contact the frame as the suspension cycles. I've tried doing 2 SAS's and have yet to make those work. Instead I end up using long bolts and a weld on spacer to the inside of the one of the shackle halves for more clearance. Then again, you might get lucky.

I'm trying a different set of springs on my Xterra so maybe I'll be able to revert back to them...will see.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Today I got two "new" tires that have great tread left.


I finished the drivers half door. Finally!

I tried to paint it to match the truck. I went to Sherman williams and asked them to mix up some paint. They said the couldn't match that color yellow (It's Sherman Williams. How the hell do they not have yellow?). So The guy found some paint that came close. I tried that only to discover that the color was closer to canary yellow. :mad3:

I looked online to find some automotive spray paint, and Duplicolor does not make Solar yellow. Finally I found a place that had some cans of solar yellow, but they wanted almost $20 a can. Since I figured about a can and a half per door it would cost $60 just to paint the doors. So I went with Krylon Khaki instead. I turned out pretty good.


For $60 I could have painted the whole truck with Krylon!:eek:













































So I did.:D




I bought three cans to do the doors, and got to thinking that I always likes the look of the tan Xterra's. I went out to look at the truck and see how it might look tan. I also wanted to see how it would look with the FRONTIER letters taken off the back.

Well two hours later I had all the stickers off, the pinstriping, had it all masked off, and sprayed two cans of paint covering the tailgate, and the rear quarter panel.

So far I have about 3 hours of thought into this:laughing:
 
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