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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This is my 1988 C20. It has a factory 454 and 400 tranny with 94,000 miles. I have seen 4x4 versions of this truck sale for 7K, So I had to buy at 2K.

I bought it because the body and frame are in AWESOME shape! Yes, it has two rust holes that are big enough to put my thumb in, but other than that, it is great. 053.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
So, that was the truck. Now the parts.

I got a deal on a front 60 and rear 80 for $500...... They came out a 2005ish Ford............ Like I tell my friends, these are not Ford axles! They are DANA AXLES!

I also have a divorced NP205. 2k C20 029.jpg 8-14-2013 943.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Radius
I thought it would be easier..........<a href="http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/images/smilies/homersimpson.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Homersimpson" >:)</a> 20130922_111514.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I put 4" lift springs in the rear first. Turned out to be a bad idea. Now I have to get the rear up another 2" inches to be level with the front <a href="http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/images/smilies/shaking.gif" border="0" alt="" title="shaking head" >:)</a>

I should have done the front first and then got the rear springs (6"). <a href="http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/images/smilies/shaking.gif" border="0" alt="" title="shaking head" >:)</a> 20130926_001817.jpg
 

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A shackle flip would solve your rear lift issue as well as preform better, although it might take a bit of tweaking to make it the right height.

Very nice truck, I like how low you kept it.
 

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Can I get some close up pics of the of the mounts on the frame end, and coil mounts? I have been kicking around the same idea for a while.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Can I get some close up pics of the of the mounts on the frame end, and coil mounts? I have been kicking around the same idea for a while.
I have to say it is still in mock up stage, but here is what I have. I know I need much more bracing on the frame mounts. the square tubing is there to hold the mounts in the correct position. The axle mounts are wider than the frame.

All the mounts are from Ballistic, so are the joints. 20130923_035946.jpg 20130922_212323.jpg 20130926_001624.jpg 20130926_001500.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
the trac bar did not work in this spot. If I go with a 10" lift it would be perfect!

The second pic is at ride height. 20130923_023644.jpg 20130923_035845.jpg
 

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Just my two cents, but have you considered boxing in the frame around the steering box? These frames crack stock in that location, having the pan hard bracket there would only make it worse.
 

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Just my two cents, but have you considered boxing in the frame around the steering box? These frames crack stock in that location, having the pan hard bracket there would only make it worse.
This ^^^ and add a cross member on the back side to the pass side also. And if it were me I would flip your radius arm on the one side and loose the link on the other (just run a lower link).

Also you will see that it is a horrible idea to run joints on the radius arm center position. That should be welded. You will find out that the straight link will rotate and change your pinion angle as you apply the brakes and the throttle.

I see why people build radius arms (easy/simple/cheaper/etc...) but is certainly not the best or even a good idea in my opinion.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
This ^^^ and add a cross member on the back side to the pass side also. And if it were me I would flip your radius arm on the one side and loose the link on the other (just run a lower link).

Also you will see that it is a horrible idea to run joints on the radius arm center position. That should be welded. You will find out that the straight link will rotate and change your pinion angle as you apply the brakes and the throttle.

I see why people build radius arms (easy/simple/cheaper/etc...) but is certainly not the best or even a good idea in my opinion.
boxing and bracing is a good idea.

I cannot flip the control arm over because the upper would be hitting the frame. I do not want to modify the frame.

the control arm would twist if I had joints on both ends (I've done it in the past). But I only have a joint on one end. I put a 24 inch pipe wrench on the control arm and attempted to twisted. The only twisting comes from the rubber bushings. I cannot do anything about that.
 

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Run your ballistic joints for a week them pull them apart and rebuild them by washing them out clean..Run Open gear grease in them and make sure they are tight when you reassemble. Also if you drive on the street get rid of the craptastic nylatron inserts and get the stronger ones.

What are your plans for an engine cross member? You have room to run a tube from the panhard bar bracket to the passenger side frame rail and maybe connect the engine cross member along the way..

Im guessing that the lower frame bracket x member is temp? If you weld it in make it removable. Would suck when you gotta pull the trans out if its welded.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Run your ballistic joints for a week them pull them apart and rebuild them by washing them out clean..Run Open gear grease in them and make sure they are tight when you reassemble. Also if you drive on the street get rid of the craptastic nylatron inserts and get the stronger ones.

What are your plans for an engine cross member? You have room to run a tube from the panhard bar bracket to the passenger side frame rail and maybe connect the engine cross member along the way..

Im guessing that the lower frame bracket x member is temp? If you weld it in make it removable. Would suck when you gotta pull the trans out if its welded.
Thanks for the tips. :smokin:

The crossmember is temporary. It will be in the way of the drive shaft.
 

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Ill be watching this, as I am going to be converting a 86 c20 suburban to 4x4 in the coming months. Trying to do as much learning as possible between now and then. :smokin:

FYI - it's a tow rig, so I am going leaves in the front. Probably find a Dana 60 front axle.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ill be watching this, as I am going to be converting a 86 c20 suburban to 4x4 in the coming months. Trying to do as much learning as possible between now and then. :smokin:

FYI - it's a tow rig, so I am going leaves in the front. Probably find a Dana 60 front axle.
Mine will be a tow rig also. I have a problem with making things difficult! also, I plan to make it a short bed and paint red.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
The spring mounting pads come from Rough Stuff Specialties. It's their 4" axel tube installation kit. This is high quality stuff, but my shocks don't fit inside the shock tabs, and I wish the u bolts were a little longer so I could add a 2 inch lift block.

The spring mounting perch falls 6 inches from the caliper bracket bolt, on each side. 20130731_010558.jpg 20130731_034710.jpg
 
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