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Discussion Starter #22
Plus hard to shift gears in the mud with the manual and stay in the boost. I had the trans and t-case all mounted up and decided I was gonna have some very tight clearances for the front driveline.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
So I'm gonna have to divorce the transfercase from the trans. I picked up a fixed yoke 2wd tailshaft and housing for the C6 from Ebay and did some parts swapping for the 203 stuff. I found a guy here on pirate with a divorced 203 tryin to marry up and we just traded parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Trying to get somewhere around a 60/40 weight distribution so I'm putting as much as I can in the back. There won't be any real bed. The bed was all plastic and fiberglass and bolted together. So I am only using the fiberglass bed sides/fenders. Originally I was gonna use an Explorer body but I wasn't sure what to do with the radiator and fuel tank. Plus I picked up the Sport-Trac body at the local salvage yard for $1000. I built the radiator mount from recycled log loader hand rails. It will also double as the mount for the rear fenders.
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
I also built a fuel tank and mounted it in the "bed". It's big as hell but oh well. The purpose of the shape is to keep fuel at the supply even at crazy angles and a low fuel levels. I wanted to use aluminum for the fuel tank but I didn't have any way to weld it. So 12g mild steel it is. A buddy told me you can cut plate with a circular saw and a carbide tipped blade. I didn't believe him but he provided the tools so I gave it a go. Worked good.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
The front of the fuel tank is angled to provide clearance for the radiator to help with air flow. If my math is correct it will hold roughly 30 gallons and weigh about 300 lbs. full. The mount bushings are Energy Suspension sway bar link bushings.
 

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Nice so far. I hope you are putting a cage in this.

Edit: your front gear box looks awfully. Close to the oil pan and the axle is kinda far from the frame for bump stops. I would maybe push the axle out further or something.
 

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Only things I would change on it are the fact that the radiator looks kinda funky standing straight up and down like that and the fuel tank looks backwards with it slanting towards the back.

I think it would look better if you mounted your rad to the cage you are building so that it angles forward and then flipped your fuel tank around and mounted it right up behind the cab.

Not that it will affect the functionality of it at all, just think the lines of it would flow mo'bettah.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Nice so far. I hope you are putting a cage in this.

Edit: your front gear box looks awfully. Close to the oil pan and the axle is kinda far from the frame for bump stops. I would maybe push the axle out further or something.
the ride height is pretty close but the axle is sitting on stands so it will actually drop down 2-3 inches with weight on the tires. I was planning on using the link towers as a starting point for the bump stop pads. To move the front axle forward enough to clear the pan it would have to go forward almost a foot and a half. I'm already at 140 inch wheel base and don't wanna go any longer. And yes it will have a full cage, tied into the frame.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Only things I would change on it are the fact that the radiator looks kinda funky standing straight up and down like that and the fuel tank looks backwards with it slanting towards the back.

I think it would look better if you mounted your rad to the cage you are building so that it angles forward and then flipped your fuel tank around and mounted it right up behind the cab.

Not that it will affect the functionality of it at all, just think the lines of it would flow mo'bettah.
Actually it will all be pretty will hidden by the bed sides. And I plan on building a small tool box to go in the space behind the fuel tank.
 

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did you put any baffles in the tank? i ran a unbaffled tank on mine and once it hit 1/4 tank it would slosh the fuel to much and wold suck air. not alot but enough to stumble the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
I had the front axle brackets all welded up and the steering cylinder mount installed and decided I didn't want to use the PSC cylinder mount. I spent lots of time building extra gussets for it so I'm sure it was plenty strong, I just didn't like that it was bolted to the 3rd member. Probably would have been fine. I think I have a tendency to overbuild because I spend my days fixing on heavy equipment. What is called "tinware" is at least 12 ga.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
So I pulled that off and built something a little more permanent.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Because of the orientation of the rear 3rd member I went a different way. To mount the cylinder up high it would have to be stuck out quite a ways to clear the pinion shaft. Down low it can still be tucked in pretty close.
 

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Loving all the pics.

did you put any baffles in the tank? i ran a unbaffled tank on mine and once it hit 1/4 tank it would slosh the fuel to much and wold suck air. not alot but enough to stumble the engine.
Maybe run a small tank in the cowl, have the mechanical fuel pump feed it, then gravity feed the IP from it. Have a port at the top teed into the return line. Sorta like the 7.3's filter arrangement, but with a greater capacity for air bubbles.

Would make sure it gets only fuel. Could probably even put a loop of 3/4" poop pipe in it for a heater hose to be connected to if you're where its cold.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
I have actually considered the small fuel tank in the engine compartment idea. I have an electric pump at the tank pushing fuel through the water separator then feeding the mechanical pump. I will probably try to run it as is for now and see how it works.
 
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