the ride height is pretty close but the axle is sitting on stands so it will actually drop down 2-3 inches with weight on the tires. I was planning on using the link towers as a starting point for the bump stop pads. To move the front axle forward enough to clear the pan it would have to go forward almost a foot and a half. I'm already at 140 inch wheel base and don't wanna go any longer. And yes it will have a full cage, tied into the frame.Nice so far. I hope you are putting a cage in this.
Edit: your front gear box looks awfully. Close to the oil pan and the axle is kinda far from the frame for bump stops. I would maybe push the axle out further or something.
Actually it will all be pretty will hidden by the bed sides. And I plan on building a small tool box to go in the space behind the fuel tank.Only things I would change on it are the fact that the radiator looks kinda funky standing straight up and down like that and the fuel tank looks backwards with it slanting towards the back.
I think it would look better if you mounted your rad to the cage you are building so that it angles forward and then flipped your fuel tank around and mounted it right up behind the cab.
Not that it will affect the functionality of it at all, just think the lines of it would flow mo'bettah.
Maybe run a small tank in the cowl, have the mechanical fuel pump feed it, then gravity feed the IP from it. Have a port at the top teed into the return line. Sorta like the 7.3's filter arrangement, but with a greater capacity for air bubbles.did you put any baffles in the tank? i ran a unbaffled tank on mine and once it hit 1/4 tank it would slosh the fuel to much and wold suck air. not alot but enough to stumble the engine.