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i am rebuilding my tank with baffles inside. also i run a holley red for supply. the tank i had, had no bafles at all. was not designed for diesel.
 

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Don't run a Holley red, those pumps get too hot and tired. They are designed for drag racing and not long runs. Get a holley blue or a carter P4070 for your lift pump.
 

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Don't run a Holley red, those pumps get too hot and tired. They are designed for drag racing and not long runs. Get a holley blue or a carter P4070 for your lift pump.
I'm running the p4070. It keeps up pressure very well, even at wot. I wouldn't have an electric pump pushing to the macnical pump. The diaphram in the mechanical pump can bust and the electric one will push fuel into the crank case. Bye bye bearings!
 

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been running my holley red for 2 years now. only failure i had was due to running it upside down. fuel got into the motor and took it out. when it does go out i will be replacing with a carter.
 

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The front of the fuel tank is angled to provide clearance for the radiator to help with air flow. If my math is correct it will hold roughly 30 gallons and weigh about 300 lbs. full. The mount bushings are Energy Suspension sway bar link bushings.
So your tank is 120lbs empty?
I have actually considered the small fuel tank in the engine compartment idea. I have an electric pump at the tank pushing fuel through the water separator then feeding the mechanical pump. I will probably try to run it as is for now and see how it works.
You may want to ditch the mechanical, the diaphram tends to rupture when they're fed with positive pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
So your tank is 120lbs empty?

It's probably pretty close. It's 3/4 of a sheet of 10ga mild steel. It's pretty stout.

You may want to ditch the mechanical, the diaphram tends to rupture when they're fed with positive pressure.[/QUO

I had not heard of that. I had run it that way for a couple years on the old truck that way with no issues. Probably because its not a real high volume or pressure pump. I have a pressure switch in the line to shut the electric pump off at 6psi.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
To get the link separation that I need I had to build a subframe. There just wasn't enough room to gut the upper link mounts inside the frame and even if i did i would have needed a subframe. It's lower than I wanted but the 54's are a big help. At ride height it's 3 feet off the ground. Should be fine. Not great but fine...
The front portion is removable and the rear portion is permenant. There is a 1/4 inch removable skid plate bolted on the bottom tying the two sections together and there will be 10 ga plate bolted on the sides.
The link material in these pics is just some old fence material and 1 1/4 nuts I got from work for mockup.
 

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This will be sweet. Love the sport trac body also. I'm loving that your just going for it. Way to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
I was able to get some more work done this weekend. I got the rear axle slung under the frame and got the lower links installed. Also got the upper and lower front links installed.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
I was worried about the front drive line clearance but i think it will be okay. I still have not installed the transfercases. I am still trying to find a 6-8 inch long driveline with 1/2 inch of slip. Also in these pictures you can see the manifold I made to run all my fluids through. Brake line, fuel supply and return, and rear steer. Just a way to avoid clamps and keep everything looking clean.
 

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I am still trying to find a 6-8 inch long driveline with 1/2 inch of slip.
The outer shell of a double cardan joint, and a 2wd slip yoke? Trans might not like the absence of the tailshaft housing, but with only 6" of drive shaft hanging on it it might not hurt anything.

EDIT: never mind, now I see you've got some sort of fixed yoke on it. I just saw a bare 4wd trans in one of the pics.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
I have also been saving up parts and finally got enough to build a handle for my trans shifter. My plan is to use the two buttons for rear steer left and right, and the trigger for return to center.
 

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Discussion Starter #59 (Edited)
Great build. Love the body choice. It''l definately be unique. Also love the fact that you're building it on a tabletop like some sort of giant RC:smokin:
It's not on the table any more, I had to return it to the company I borrowed it from. I needed it to lay the frame out on because there are no flat areas on my shop floor. And it was nice to get everything up to a more comfortable working height.
 

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Discussion Starter #60
Not much progress lately. I did find time to hack up a stock front driveline and build a short shaft to go between my transmission and transfercase. Turned out better than I thought it would. The splined shaft is pressed into the collar and welded on the back. Then that assembly is pressed into the yoke and welded around the shaft and the collar. The female yoke was just shortened and turned to hold the dust seal.
 

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