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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Had to have a name. This fits

http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=Goldie-Lox&defid=343191

Specs are : '62 3b with, eewww (comp cut fenders), '95 4.3 cpi injected, Np435, re-geared Dana 20 (2.46:1), 5.38's, Detroit rear, ARB front (hence the name), Scout 44's, rolling on garbage 16.5 military's right this second (for mock-up), will be running 37's. 14" Fox airshox at all four. 3 link front, 4 link rear. Warn 8274-50, blah blah

I did most of this in a single entry basement door (I don't have a vehicle-sized door), so I had to take it in piece by piece, and remove it. It was in there for three years or so. Pretty excited to get it back out and get it this far.

Don't worry, the tub should have been scrapped, the floors were gone. It was this or a side-by-side. Easy choice for me. My grand-dad left it to me as a stocker, it has always been in the family and was purchased with a bag of silver dollars in '62.

Should be able to make some headway now that it's free from the underworld... Engine/trans/x-fer have already been fitted, sliders are cut to size. Need to bend some shock hoops for front and rear, and burn in everything you see. Add a cage and another couple of hundred hours...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Not really anything special here. This is a Scout Dana 20 with my Dana 18 levers. The Scout shift rails were welded up and ground to accept the 18 levers. They sit perfect in the Scout bracket.

The 18 also donated its gears to give me a 2.46:1 ratio. Cheap mod for those wanting to run a centered rear diff..
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Thanks W4x4, yep, good eye Fred, Scout box.

Here is the Novak Np435 to Dana 20 adapter. I have already swapped the output shafts, transmission was really clean on the inside. I replaced the small plastic "sliders" on the shift forks because they were old/brittle. Thats a bell housing off of a SM465 on the front with a Novak front bearing retainer.

12" Chev. pressure plate and a Ford 11" disk. I had an NP 435, and a SM465, hell if I know why I used the NP. :shaking: It was cleaner internally and a little smaller dimension wise. The 465 looked like a pig in the frame rails.

I've got to make a bracket for the 435 as seen from this angle to tie in the right lower ear
 

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Discussion Starter #8
G2 5.38's, Detroit (rear), ARB (front). The G2 gear install kits come with U.S. made Timkens. Happy about that! Anyone have any experience with G2?
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Final assembly of the engine/transmission/transfer case. Wire harness has been "weeded" and inline resistors added to simulate the values of the missing 4l60e transmission solenoids. Novak slave cylinder is seen in this photo also. Crappy cell pic
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
I had already sat the engine in the frame before I rolled it out of the basement. I also ground off the outer "C"'s, corrected the caster angle, and changed the front pinion angle years ago (literally. this has been going on since '06)

I used a lot of Ballistic tabs/brackets, not because I can't cut my own, but time is money, and it works better for me to just buy them. and wait. At the rate I'm going, I should be able to go wheelin' in 2015:shaking:

Picked up a JD2 notcher along the way. Awesome tool.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Picked up a 8274-50 off of craigslist, and bought a TMR mount for it.

I cut the top of of the '95 donor fuel tank and grafted it into the stock tank (I added a small sump for the fuel pump in the tank as well)

My buddy gave me the hydroboost out of a CUCV, and the p/s pump. The p/s pump bolted right into the vortec front bracket. I used a puller and removed the single belt pulley and the serpentine belt pulley went right back on.

Bought 4 - 14" Fox airshox back in '07. And last, I had originally bought this PSC ram for my John Deere. It didn't fit. dern.
 

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any updates? great build, im doing th e mp435 as well with the novak adapter to chevy.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Not much progress that can be seen. Got the link brackets burned in. I had to re-do the rear upper links and make them an inch longer to gain a better pinion angle.

I also had to move the front right lower link bracket (on the axle) in a full inch so that the brake caliper would quit becoming the steering stop. The Scout axle is really tight on space on the pass side.

Also got the winch mount installed, I am going to add a 3/16 plate under it as a base plate, and tie it into the frame
 

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WOW... Finally, some pics of this beast!! Well I must say I'm impressed, nice job!!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Just started to get into the re-gearing part of this build. Here are some pics of the front axle and its link tabs, old gears (3.07's) and new ones (5.38's). This might take a while. I've been doing all the reading I can on gear set-ups. We'll see how this goes.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
As I mentioned before, I had already corrected the caster angle by cutting the outer "C"s loose and turning them. I also flipped the tie rod to the top and reamed the existing tie rod holes in the knuckles to accept the flipped tie rod.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
These photos are current as of today, frame flipped upside down. Brackets burned in, engine mounts in place, transmission mount/skid section is removable (will be plated to become a skid) frame is sleeved. Center section bolts in with 12 bolts. Lots of thanks to TVGUY for the help on this!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
With a long way to go still, but a lot behind me, her are some updated photos of the progress. I still have to pull the tub off one more time for prep and paint. Still have to bend up a cage, mount seats, complete steering, brakes, electrical and fuel systems. ...But it's starting to look like something. Airshocks are mounted, but empty, hence the blocks. Front "hoop" is a cantilever design, 1 1/2" x .250 wall dom. There is no way its going to bend in that short of a distance.
 

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