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Discussion Starter #1
My little Mythical Flatty that is...

I had a flatty on 35's and used it for trail rides and competing in NeuRoc at Paragon years ago. The last few years I have built two different YJ's for Class 1 at RCROC's at Rausch Creek. Class 1 is one locker and 33's.

I am putting this one together to drive around town and to do well in the competitions.

1974 CJ 5 frame, Flatty body.
4.3
T350
twin sticked D300, flipped.
XJ hp front, YJ 4.10's, Detroit, RCV shafts
V6 2wd Toy rear, 4.10's
Durango PS box
33's BFG Muds and Outlaw 11's
8274
2" lift YJ springs and mounts
Simple cage tied in everywhere
Low back seats

Front and Rear Crossmember's











I did a little work to the bottom of the HP30.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Most of the fab work is done on the rear diff.



This is just a mockup body I borrowed from a friend. I could not really go any further without it.







 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thank you euroford. I have been collecting parts here and there as deals pop up. I figured I had enough parts to start putting something together.

I plan to get the rear shackle mounts, front axle truss and get a good start on the motor mounts this weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
A little past Jeep history for you just to give you a idea of where my head is at.

My original Flatty. 4.3, t18, M18 with Warn OD...


Current trail rig and lifer. Built SBC, auto, doubler, HP60, 9"....


Daily Driver XJ, 33's and lockers


O9 Comp YJ, worked awesome but no power. 4 cylinder with a automatic.


O10, O11 Comp YJ. 4.3, T350, flipped 300. I built it and drove. Not mine.
 

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very sweet! I love the little flatties. I've looked at several to buy but all the ones that I found up here in PA are rusted shells.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Rear spring plates weld up.


Front axle truss is done.






Rear shackle and D ring mounts done.


Another picture of the Toyota rear housing.
 

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Looking good, I hope that you are planning on stretching the wheelbase because thats a long drivetrain for a short wheelbase. Also be carefull with that front axle truss because it is probably going to hit your motor. My dana 30 barely touched with no truss before i moved the axle ahead but that truss would still hit in my jeep. Im not saying that it wount work you just might want to set the motor before you get too far ahead of yourself.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thank you for the heads up on the motor fitment issues. I have moved the axles and have the WB set at 86 3/8. I can not go more than 3" over stock for the class I will be using the Jeep in, stock is 83.5 for the 74 frame I am using.

I don't want to set the drive line until my shifters come in from D&D Machine that I ordered on August 1st...
 

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Very cool! I'll be watching this one. It looks like it is going to be a lot like my '42 is suppose to end up.
 

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Thank you for the heads up on the motor fitment issues. I have moved the axles and have the WB set at 86 3/8. I can not go more than 3" over stock for the class I will be using the Jeep in, stock is 83.5 for the 74 frame I am using.

I don't want to set the drive line until my shifters come in from D&D Machine that I ordered on August 1st...
It'll fit, very tight but it should. I'm at 89 inches and have an M38a1 frame, which is the same as an early CJ5 frame. I stretched the hood 3.5 inches to move the engine even further forward. I have a V8 Chevy motor, TH350 and D300 in mine. My d300 is the 1980 version with the short tail shaft. I would suggest putting your motor as far forward as you can. With the V6 you can put it further forward than I could with a V8. My rear shaft is REALLY short, 16.5 inches at ride height and the jeep is lifted 4.5 inches from stock. Ended up going with a CV style rear shaft and clocked the pinion up quite a bit. Works great with zero issues...sweet build by the way! I'll be watching...here's mine.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=868450
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks Fred.

Mieser I really like the vision for your build. I do hope mine turns out close to your Photoshopped picture.

2a_toys I dig your build.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I had a chance today to stop by my local 4wd shop Appalachian Off Road and got some of the little parts I need for the build. Some steering odds and ends and some bushing to finish getting the suspension together. :smokin:

I took a quick measurement of the 4.3, at the most 25" long from the plug on the back of the distributor to the end of the studs in the water pump. The trans, adapter and short style D300 measure 36".

I do plan to mount the driveline offset to the passenger side at least 1" maybe 2" if I can swing it.
 

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I do plan to mount the driveline offset to the passenger side at least 1" maybe 2" if I can swing it.[/QUOTE said:
I offset mine 2 inches...helped with driveshaft clearance at the tranny pan. Being driver side drop on your front, you won't have the clearance issues around the TH350 like you would if you had a passenger side drop front axle. The TH350 pan sticks out further on the passenger side. Exhaust clearance will be an issue to watch for offsetting it.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
jalbrecht42 I use 1/4" for the base and what ever the thicker angle is from Home Depot.

TheHNIC the Durango box uses a bigger bore and piston= more power.
 
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