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Discussion Starter #22
Lotta work considering you can buy Ackerman corrected arms like you made from 4x4labs.com, been around a few years already.
Yeah, I know.
I had designed them already by the time I found out about 4x4Labs, but it's the principle of the thing. I would rather make something if I have the ability rather then buy it.
 

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Nice drawings and arms of course. I've heard a lot of talk about ackerman angle over the years and if I'm reading your drawings correctly it seems it would be nearly impossible to accomplish this with the arms in front? TRE center through Kingpin/Bj should intersect at the rear axle centerline, correct? The second drawing also make si tlook to me that tire size plays a role when the wheels are turned,or is ackerman only dealing with my first description?
 

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Very nice. Give me a call, we've got the taper you need.

In 2005 I designed this set of steering arms to place the tie rod and drag link above the springs, and to also use the Ackermann angle in them, which worked with placing the tie rod behind the axle.
The arms are milled to a 1” thickness through out.
The TRE connection points are milled at 10 deg and a thickness of .75”.














Modeled on a partial front axle
 

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behind axle steering

I just wanted to chime in about the tie rod behind the axle. I have had a 4x4labs setup for about 2 years now (on my 85 extended cab) and have not had a problem. When i installed the arms, tierod and draglink to see my clearences i was almost touching the oil pan. so what I did was put on a 2 wheel drive pan and sump. i am running rears up front with maybe 4" of lift and have self clearanced the oil pan. it has only made a small dent in the pan, nothing to worry about, i should have set my bumpstops about 1/4'' lower. sweet job on the arms.:smokin:
 

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Finally, someone that understands ackerman angle around here. Way to go, thoes should work out great!
Getting the Ackerman angle correct is of little importance when rock crawling. As Rick already pointed out, it's always going to be a comprimise anyway. And while Ackerman angle is important to street driven vehicles, and dez-racer's, I would challenge anyone to tell the difference between two identical rigs with a couple of degrees of difference in the Ackerman angle, while going up Sledgehammer.

Not that you shouldn't take it into consideration if you can, but I'm just saying it's not that important for what most of us do.

Anyway nice work on the arms. Good luck with your steering setup.
 

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Regardless, I like seeing someone put there knuckles to it and turn out a badass part in their garage. Strong work!:smokin:

Who the hell is this ANCHORMAN anyway.:laughing:
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Real nice work :smokin:...nothin' like machine shop access to get what you want. Serious props to you if that was all cut manual on the Bridgeport.
Most of it was manual, but the profiles were done with Gibbs(CNC).

Thanks for all the support.
 

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Hey 4runner Freak , First off excelent job . Would you consider posting up detailed drawings , for the rest of us who are capable of making our own , Without having to go through the whole design process like you did . And , If you don't no big deal .
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Very nice. Give me a call, we've got the taper you need.
Brian from FROR was kind enough to lend me his mill.
So into the machine shop today and taper the tre holes.
Press the cylinder into the arms and Walla!!! They will be totally done.
I'll post some pics when they are together!
Thanks Brian
 

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Very nice work on those arms. :cool2:

I did a double take when I saw that 3D front axle model. Then I looked back through my old PM's and saw you were the one I sent it to back in late 05'.

Again, great job.:smokin:
 
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